smokingwheels

looks like ill be giving them the flick myphotoalbum

thanks it seem no to work it used to i will upload them somewhere else http://images.myphotoalbum.com/s/sm/smo/smok/smoki/smokingwheels/albums/MyEngine/head_polished_chamber_by_hand.highlight.jpg try this on page 2

Here's an idear Take a 2 litre coke bottle and cut it in half. Put a rubber diaphram (air tight) over the cut end. Aim neck carefully at a candle and tap it with a few fingers, acording to the web site at http://www.cs.wits.ac.za/~jon/science/experiments/ you can put out a candle at upto 2m because it generates a vortex this web site has sum good things to try "put 3 drops of NACO4 with ....... and Run" So im thinking ........got piles of junk around Im so lazy ........slack .....got no money.....and the rest..... So if we put a speaker in place of the diaphram. http://images.myphotoalbum.com/s/sm/smo/smok/smoki/smokingwheels/albums/MyEngine/Candle_snuffer1.thumb.jpg hmmm.....more power to inject into my engine http://images.myphotoalbum.com/s/sm/smo/smok/smoki/smokingwheels/albums/MyEngine/turbo_1.thumb.jpg hmmm what would i drive it with, AC/DC, Metallica, sum heavy metal song with lots of bass boost maybe hmmm my soundblaster 5.1 se has +18 db of boost in the parametric EQ Record it at that level if you can by usings another pc Then playback the recording hence adding another +18 db of bass. It realy makes the subbies move, doors and windows rattle. I thought i would give you all one of my idears Think outside the box It could just be a certain waveform needed I am build a test unit with whatever is within my buget and play music to my engine, while logging RPM Increase/Per Cyclinder@WOT@45degrees sounds complex my 1st gear runs at about 15 rpm/cyc 2nd gear runs at about 4.5 rpm/cyc 3rd gear runs but is self incrimaning 4th same see above 5th same see above I will host the pics at my free photo site sounds i would have to send out by email But you would have to be on my list to allow you to access to it. If you dont think thats fair please let me know how many km/h you shaved of your 1/4 mile time. 0 to 100 km/h eg traffic lights to sum speed limit sign or post 0 to 60 km/h I wouldnt want you to get booked! be carefull! oh make sure they dont Resurvey the signpost had this done to me a few years ago number of speakers power levels how much of a breaze on your face and at what distace I could say hair but my mate doesnt have any output tube size etc input tube size etc recordings of input and output wave files (recording with you highest resolution) mp3 ok too buy $1.00 headphones and use them as mic's think of a name to call it we could all vote on it with one of those polls here go to http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html and Turbocalc its fun to play with numbers until the trial runs out, im not reinstalling windows for at least another 3 months So if it doesnt work i wont give up my day job Cause i dont have one I still have to fit a 500 cfm holley and 4 fuel pumps into my wagon yet Have Fun

Yep a good read, just picked my self up off the floor Ive had Days like that too, dont give up sounds like the bores have a few vertical lines this could be from the pistions being too tight, one idear try getting an ultra bright led ,pulse driving from your 555 at 100 mA for a 1mS or so increase the intentsy, use some cat 5 cable or single conductor wire, then put it in the plug hole, i dont know it you will see much but try it at night Ps buy 2 leds incase you burn the first one out, if was me i would get 4 then you could use 2 or 3 in a bunch stagger them. In the past I have used a dash board globe and a 8 mm steel rod to get the chain tensioner back in its place several times, sure beats the hell out of removing the cover. Ive even shaped lumps of hard wood and an old lawn mower blade to mount the block of wood in place then using the head bolt to secure the blade and hold the wood behind the slack side of the chain, put the tensioner back in place and its good for another 3000 km simple just keep making bigger ones, ill upload a pic of the biggest one soon its taken me 3 years to work another head I am finding similar problems the plugs are carboning up again, Bosch tell me that i need to cut down on the fuel supply, so i guess i will rip the stock carby apart and block off all jets but at least 50% then lower the float level then use a 555 to pulse the fuel pump into the carby every so often. in the other head i had, the ratio was ~ 11.5:1 and the std heat plugs lasted less than 15 mins, around the block spin the wheels and get sum fuel . I started replacing all sorts of electrical stuff got spark plugs 3 heat ranges up and still only got 1000 km before missfiring this head used made the engine knock above 3000 rpm with 5 degrees total advance with it sitting in the drive way. I worked the head somthing cruel,it used to knock very hard with stock dissy The new recon motor chewed all the con rod bearings out in a few weeks what have i done ...... so i lowered the compression to 8:1 used 20" and 30" oversizre bearings on the rods. After 3 years of working on my program, I now know that under WOT it would of been 7 degrees on the other side No nobody has made a engine like this before, i think Wrote a computer program to time the engine (in basic) using the parrell port the engine lasted for another 9 months. Then it started to make lots of noise again which intensty increased with rpm in disgust in 2003 we diched the hole lot out so now i have another one not as good as the first though but its just a matter of making the ports larger and remembring what i did 5 years ago to the nearest .1 of mm its really hard to recall the exact port size that i had before I guess that will teach me for cutting sick with a die grinder But worse of all i threw out my work of art.