EScanlon

My thoughts are that at HALF that price, it would still be OVER priced. This may be a case of someone trying to rescue his money from a deal that was too good to be true. Let it go to someone on the East Coast. It's a bargain for them, and the seller can get his money back, and you don't overpay for something you can get cheaper....get my drift? E

AFAIK the only connection to the Tach from the Dizzy is through the coil, as that is where the leads (both of them) from the tach end up. I would definitely question any electrical connections you have recently made / repaired / changed or in any manner is different from when the car did NOT make noise. Aside from that, if you are running the true-blue original system, then you are running points, condenser and rotor. There are various items there that would definitely affect the tach's operation. If the points are starting to arc and make poor contact because the dwell is off or because the points are pitted etc, then the coil wouldn't discharge and you would sense a "miss" at the tach. Is your resistor still functional and not corroded at the connection points? Ask Bambikiller (Carl) and HLS-30 (Will), they're bound to have better guesses than my WAG. I'm not an engine mechanic, I do bodies. But before you opt to replace, make sure that it can't be traced elsewhere. Enrique

Most of us are already confused enough without your throwing gas on the fire..... But your pronunciation of " ...B...one" versus "....b....one" leaves something to be desired, you lisped...... E

One of the pictures on the following site came up through a Roadster Mail List, and when I was looking at it, I came up with this picture listing of the "Officiial" Nissan Historic Car Collection Photo Gallery. The list does show several of the cars that were "omitted" from the poll, as pointed out by a couple members, but the most glaring difference is....no 260's! So now who do we believe? http://www.autobytel-japan.com/special/nissan/z/index.cfm Check it out! Enrique

This I think is the crux of this post. At what point is your "restoration" actually a situation where you've replaced parts to "OPTIMIZE" your car according to your taste / knowledge. I use the new term OPTIMIZE to denote what you do even when you replace a bald set of tires for a new set, you are maintaining the car while "bettering" it's condition. I don't use improve, because a simple exchange of tires is not normally an improvement, but by putting tread where none was before, you've made the situation better. Now an improvement would be replacing the square top S.U.'s with round top, also replacing the stock tires/wheels with new wheels and high-end tires. The key is that in the broadest sense of the term, Breat Bill's car is also a car that is being "optimized". i.e. he's working on getting it running and ....more. Cause by the manner in which the definition is being applied, I also placed one each in Series I and II bone stock that will both be Customized for the purposes of the poll, but are more "optimized" than customized. i.e. I've replaced parts of both with later year parts, therefore rendering both vehicles as being custom. So move one each from the Series 240 to 240 Custom. It should be noted that by changing the HCP to the 73 style (to gain illumination on the panel), swapping the dash with a 72 (no cracks) and upgrading the seats to the 72 (recline & tilt) I was not going for a kaleidoscope of a car but restoring that "stock" look. On the other car, simply changing the engine (with another year correct) will render it custom. Only a knowledgeable person of the marque would be able to pick these things out, but in this forum that's what we promote. On that basis, I bring forth the term "Optimized", do I have a second? E

If you already sanded with 100 grit and that didn't get rid of the paint, then you're either dealing with dried POR or some of the undercoating / rust preventer's shot underneath the cowl (aka Hood Finisher). If it is undercoating or rust-preventer, you might get rid of the main part of the stain, but probably not any discoloration due to the length of time that it may have been stuck on there (don't forget UV paint fade as well as plain old staining due to the petroleum content). FWIW Enrique

As long as the dents did not incur creases the suction cup should work. If they creased, then it will still leave a mark where the creases are. E

I'd be interested in seeing some of the 70-78 Capri and Capri II. That's another car that I wouldn't mind owning one of. E

That's due to the case of Corona Beer you can see through the windshield! E

On LHD cars, the 71 had the bottle under the inspection lid on the Left side of the car. The pump was mounted on the bottle at the bottom. The washer nozzles were fed by clear tubing (probably yellowish with age by now) and white "T" connectors. The nozzles peeked out of the cowl ribs, but were attached to the top most part of the firewall with phillips screws. If they're not there, then they've been removed. You can get replacements, check with the vendors. In the meantime use YELLOW Rain-X on the outside of your glass. HTH Enrique

I wouldn't call it cheesey, it does the job enough to show intent, and if you were stopped and questioned, the number would match the car and the explanation would suffice (you hope). To make it a bit more "believable" if you don't have access to a pop rivet gun, but you DO have a Dremel, then bore out ("strip" the head of the screw) so that it becomes "tamper-proof". Simply use a cone bit to drill out the splines for the screwdriver. This makes it obvious that your intent isn't to be able to remove and replace the tag quickly, but rather to mount the replaced tag permanently. E

AFAIK MB Anderson does NOT do engine overhauls. Other than him, I can't say as I don't know. E

This is just a WAG, but have you checked the oil in the S.U.'s? Enrique

"Tar Paper" is a catch-all term for a soft substance in a "sheet" form with adhesive on one side. The other side may have a film, aluminum, plastic, felt, foam, or ???. Dynamat, Brown Bread, B-Quiet, and Q-Pads are just a few of the product names that I know of that are basically the same thing. Differences between them will (usually) consist of claims of durability, sound attenuation and .... In my experience, while there are a few differences (some have perforated aluminum foil, some have smooth, some have clear film, others have felt, or vinyl, or ...) for the most part what they are is a sticky substance that does not harden that can be applied to the sheet metal. The most common of these substances is plain old tar that has been pressed into sheets or rolls, and adhesive applied on one side, hence the term "tar paper". Tar paper is seen as more desireable than another product called Body Shutz. Body Shutz is another name for undercoating, which to some people is like saying poison. However, properly applied on properly prepared metal it actually does wonders for reducing sound, rust and wear on the underside of the car. Body Shutz is basically liquified tar in a liquid base that you "spray" onto the underside of the car. I wouldn't recommend shooting this on the inside of the vehicle as the liquid base (I believe it's mineral spirits) takes WEEKS to evaporate and will nauseate you. Check with your local Automotive Paint and Weatherstrip store. They should have something although the name may differ. Hope this helps Enrique

Quick and Dirty primer on Sound attenuation: From my days selling Ceiling Tile. STC: Sound Transmission Coefficient; The quantity of sound TRANSMITTED THROUGH the material itself. NRC: Noise Reduction Coefficient; The quantity of sound ABSORBED by the material itself. Although these numbers seem to be the inverse of each other, they aren't although they go hand in hand. The sheet metal of the Z transmitts sound quite readily, that's the reason they put the "tar paper" on the floor boards. The Tar Paper reduces the metal's ability to resonate harmonically and therefore the amount of sound that it will regenerate on the inside of the cabin from the sound waves received on the outside. Metal is a material with a very low NRC, and normally a very high STC, especially as sheet metal. The tar paper changes the STC by changing the metals ability to vibrate. Sometimes in addition to the tar paper, they added a fibrous material to reduce the sound that still resonated through the metal. An example of this is the firewall and the transmission tunnel. There they used a fibreglass type mat or "horse-hair" or "jute". This material has a very high NRC, and a very low STC. Additionally it also has very high temperature insulation properties. Your typical house insulation has these qualities as well. Reducing noise in the Z calls for reducing the metal harmonics that transmit sound INTO the cabin from outside. Typically a tar paper, or bituminous, or "soft" material is adhered to the metal. The key being that it is ADHERED to the metal. This reduces the high frequency vibrations that go through sheet metal very readily. If you then add a layer of high NRC material, such as carpet, insulation, or some other "fluffy" type material (i.e. with lots of air space between the strands) it will help reduce the mid and upper low frequencies. By placing the STC and increasing the NRC of the various panels of the car, you'll do a good job of reducing the noise. If you target those specific areas which are known noise producers (engine, transmission, rear end) with insulation specifically geared for the sound they generate, you'll really reduce the sound. My car has the "tar paper" all the way from the cowl bucket, down accross the firewall from side to side, across the floor pans and the transmission tunnel all the way to the tail-light area. The only part of the "floor" that isn't covered, is the tool box lids and the spare tire well. The insides of the tool boxes are covered as well as the bottom of the particle board spare tire cover. Additionally, I added some inside the doors themselves and the inner rear fenders (inside of the outside metal), the inner metal of the hatch and the rocker panels and doglegs under the quarter windows. The firewall and the transmission tunnel are the only areas where I used a fibrous insulation, and that was the original "jute" insulation. However, if I had to replace it, I would opt for a high temp insulation similar to what gets used in insulating stoves. This tends to be stiffer and denser than standard house insulation. This makes it easier to cut and to glue in place. I've had various people ride in my car and they all comment as to how quiet it is. I can listen to the original radio with mono sound and not need an amplifier. Additionally, my wife and I can converse with or without the windows being open. For What It's Worth Enrique

The Qtr. Window Seal is glued to the Qtr. Window Frame with the "taller" leg towards the outside THEN it gets compressed when fitted to the body. Additional Sealant is normally NOT required when mounting the window on the body. Be aware that it is a b!t¢h to compress the gasket AND get the screws started while making sure the gasket doesn't slip off the metal frame. For that reason, use a good high-strength adhesive (3M Weatherstrip Adhesive in Black comes to mind) follow the directions carefully (i.e. clean metal and gasket well, apply one coat to each, allow to dry and then re-apply a SMALL amount for final fitting, tape and let sit for 24 hours), BEFORE you start trying to mount the windows to the car. 2¢ Enrique

No it isn't. Your point was about exhuming putrified 7 month old dead threads without your explicit permission....oops....with no logical (to you) reason. Then you went on to try to hijack the thread onto truly meaningless discussions of a rare event-themed product that is only available on a small regional basis and therefore of interest to a very SMALL group of people. Definitely in the NON-"earth shattering news to anyone in the western hemisphere." And whether or not someone asked where to buy Brasso is NOT a requirement for adding to a thread. If it were, then a LOT of posting would not be made. Much of the posting are replies to UN-ASKED questions, which pertain to features, repairs, or other subjects that have been discussed in a myriad of forms. There are times when the unsolicited post gives rise to some of the most interesting posts on this site. Get off your high horse Carl. This isn't your site to moderate, nor is it a requirement that people get your permission to post, nor to add to ANY posting, regardless of it's age. Additionally, based on the responses to the availability of Brasso at a major retailer, it's apparent that there was some interest to other people other than "morons". So don't try to BS everyone by saying it's about Wal-Mart nor it's business, it isn't. Enrique

Excellent Job, Ed! The only problem I've found with the lights looking so bright, is that at times they can fool me and make me think I've left the lights on (no kidding!). Alfa, how did yours turn out? E

240Z Fuse Box

The first item is the Light Housing light source for the 4-Way Flasher Switch (Pull/Push Style) and the Cigar Lighter. The "odd" light bulb socket goes in there, and lights / dims with the normal dash illumination. The light to the 4-Way Flasher and the Cigar Lighter Housing is "sent" there via a Fiber Optic Cable. The FOC goes THROUGH the 4-Way Flasher STEM and then into the head of the Push/Pull Knob, on the Cigar Lighter it exits at a small hood that is attached to the side of the Cigar Lighter Body. It's a very nice subdued light effect. As far as the second item, that is a doozy. It looks as though it's coming from a relay or a small circuit box. The White Red and the other ?White/White? wire aren't one of the color codes used for that thin a wire. The White/Red wire they use tends to be heavier gage. This almost looks like a "Light On" Warning Buzzer but don't take that as what it is, just a WAG. Enrique

The main reason I belong for AAA is that with ONE phone call (usually) someone's coming, at any time of the day and anywhere (AAA+) with the capability to get you started, tire changed, gas brought, and if necessary a tow. Could I get a friend? Maybe, a good friend would say NO if it weren't possible, and I'd undestand. With AAA+ I don't have to impose upon them for something that might have been preventable. (If you run out of gas, unless it's for a mechanical malfunction, that's just dumb or extremely forgetful.) But the most important one is definitely the tow. I would rather camp out in the Z than leave it, even if it was for help. In some parts of the country, the Z, for it's uniqueness and rarity, if found on the side of the road becomes a highly sought target. You might check with your insurance regarding the tow provision. An old policy of mine did pay for the tow.....after you mailed it in. AAA, just does it for the once a year due. But the Onstar.... now there's a thought. What about a Z with one of those? Enrique

Here's a couple of articles that might be of help: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15176 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15177 Hopefully it will make it easy to finish. Enrique

V12: Excellent post. Wish people would read and understand the message you contained therein. Enrique

IF: Ziebart gets applied AT the time of first sale from the manufacturer's dealer and IF: Any damage to the vehicle gets repaired and then inspected afterwards by a Ziebart shop for compliance with their warranty and IF: Proper care of the vehicle such as under-carriage spray / slush damage is attended to at least periodically THEN You will find that Ziebart works great. However, any one of the above items can / may / will be the cause of the problems that a Ziebart job fails from. I've seen vehicles 15+ years after being Ziebarted that have been in great condition, and I've seen them fail at less than 12. Too much regarding rust protection involves where and how the car is driven to assign it all to one item. So, answering your original question. Ziebart is a good preventative agent, it is not a total protection agent, nor is it an absolute protection agent. A car that has been treated with it, has less vulnerability to the rust monster than other vehicles without any type of protection. That the car has been treated works in your favor. Now as far as clues that you have rust? They're the same with or without the Ziebart. Look at Front Fender Rear Doglegs, Battery Area, Floor Pans, Rear Fender Front Doglegs and Lips. Check for mysterious paint bubbling or lifting. Overlapping metal areas are very prone to wearing through to the metal. Follow my drift? Enrique