Jackhammer

What I was installing this past weekend was a generic Dyna-Mat like product. It's a 60 mil. rubber mat (closed cell) with a aluminum foil on one side and adhesive on the other. Ebay has several sellers that sell it...it's about a $1.00 a square foot. In addition to that I first applied a gal. of the Dupli-Color Truck bed liner to the floor and inside the doors. I will finish it with a couple of layers of 3/8" thick aluminum laminated fiber padding. Hopefully... that will be enough so that I only hear a nice low mellow rumble of the pipes.

Sorry... Gregg failed to notice your thumbnails below. :nervous: I ditto what beandip is saying. The floors appear to be solid. I as well have extensive before and after shots in my gallery of a complete floor pan, frame rail replacement and POR 15 process etc... I am currently in the process of installing the sound deadning insulation. I live in Houston ...PM me if you would like some info., sources and/or help with you Z in the Houston area.

Hi Greg, Are you doing both the inside and out?

Thanks... Dave. I just came in from the garage were I was starting to sort through the wiring to re-install since pulling it out for the restoration. Sheesh.. Looks like fun. I am going to make these. Makes no sense not to since I am doing a complete resto/mod. Thanks for all your effort.

I am with you there. Also, I believe your correct about not needing the front valance. He would just need the tun signals.

They could in conjunction with some additional custom fabrication. If I am not mistaken you will have to weld in threaded plates to the back of the valance and lower side fender for the rear brackets to work. The front is going to require the entire lower valance with turn signal lights etc. beyond that I am not that familiar with the later larger bumper versions. I would have to look at it closer. Arne... you were doing pretty good. Perhaps, you can help him further. Like...I said earlier... it is not impossible. It is going to require fabrication and additional parts from an earlier model for it to work. Post some pics of the front and rear.

That is considered a 74.5 or late production date. The late/74.5 260Z is very similar to the 75 280Z...larger bumpers, lights in the grille,etc. . The early production date is very similar to the 73 240Z... smaller bumpers, turn lights below the bumper etc. . The 1750 and 1751 bumper kit you have is designed to be used with the earlier model Z's 70-(early)74. The catolog lists: 50-1750 Front 70 - early 74 and 50-1751 Rear 70 - early 74 The problem you have is that the kit was designed for the early models with the smaller bumpers, turn lights in the lower valance and rear sheet metal differences. Bottom line... it's not impossible but you are facing quite a bit of additional work and parts for it to work. :disappoin

Is your 260 an early production car... prior to 8/74 ?

Their to busy coming up with Security Patches...

Like... I need more ways to do that! Ditto on the cool though.

I love Z's in factory original form...but I also love 'em modified like this as well. I just love Z's. The "first generation" Z is just such a great platform for modification. I would love to see what Chip Foose could do with it.

Confirmed....it is a 2 1/2" hole.

Ed..... if it fits an early 9/73 260Z I would be interested in one. Do you know if it works? Thanks, Jack

Maybe... he's Smokingwheels American cousin?

Give us an Eyewitness on the (Rust) Spot Report.

It works for me...Looks great man!