AxtellZ

Hi all! OK, here's the story: late 260Z with 72 SU carbs. Been hibernating since November, got it out last week for Spring, also to install my new Fireball XR700 ignition. Pulled forward after starting it, and had no brakes:cry: So i went ahead and installed the ignition unit, and got it to run well in the garage, though i had to turn the distributor ahead as much as i could to get her running well. Parked it and ordered a rebuilt master cylinder, called a buddy with a muffler/brake shop to install the MC since i am working too much this month:sleepy: So last night i have a chance to drop the Z at his shop, its near freezing, but dry, so my wife drives to pick me up. Car was really hard to start, but then it idled along fine once running. I start out, to find it really bogging and coughing at low RPM's under load. Now, if i had it over 3000rpm, she screamed along like an L6 should, and driving along flat roads without trying to accelerate, it was fine. However, driving up a slope, or to accelerate with the engine under 3K rpm, it stumbled, coughed, etc etc.. I am *guessing* my timing is still retarded, and it runs well at high rpms from the vacuum advance.. Seems logical, since when the XR700 units optical trigger is mounted in the distributor, it is located in an arbitrary position, so perhaps i need to "slide" it back in its mount to gain some room for setting the timing? Can anyone give me an opinion as to yes/no/maybe?? Don't have a timing light, so i've no idea where it is now- just got it to idle in the garage, then on the virgin voyage, the above story. Any and all insight appreciated here- THANKZ!!:classic:

And from www.zhome.com: From: "Lawrence M. Cooper" Subject: Tachometer Hookup & Jacobs Ignition Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:42:42 -0500 I've been reading several threads recently on problems with stock tachometers and on problems with the Jacob's system. First let me say that on my ITS prepared 72 240Z, both work flawlessly. Now a little background. Many years ago I found out that there are at least two types of tachs for the 240Z and 260Z. One type is a four wire positive trigger tach and another is a three wire negative trip tach. The 4 wire type has one wire that sends positive voltage to the tach, one wire is for ground and the other two leads are the trigger loop, one coming and the other going. I can't say off hand exactly where these two feed to/from but they are shown in both my 72 and 73 factory manual wiring diagrams. They are also poorly pictured in these manuals. From past experience I have found that this type of tachometer is very unreliable. I have found this true in Mazdas and Datsuns. I have found the 3 wire type of tachometer to be much more reliable and more adaptive to aftermarket modifications to the ignition system. The 3 wire type has a positive lead, a ground and a negative trip lead that runs directly from the negative terminal on the coil. Strangely, however, I have not found a Datsun wiring diagram or picture depicting this three wire tach. Has anyone out there seen one? OK, here is what I have done with my 72 240Z. I removed my old 4 wire tach and replaced it with the three wire. I ran all new wires to the tach to assure proper circuitry. One wire from a trustworthy + supply, another to a nice ground, and the third directly to the negative lead on the coil. Here is where a problem crops up. Remember those two wires, on the 4 wire tach, that formed the positive trip circuitry? Well that loop is needed to keep your car running. Apparently the primary ignition circuitry runs through this loop (weird). I had to just complete this loop and the car started right up. I now always use a 3 wire tach. You can easily hook up a shift light to it as well as the Jacobs electronic ignition. OK, here is where I'll get some arguments. I don't use points. I use an Allison XR-700 (now called Crane?) optical trigger inside my stock distributor housing(per ITS regulations). I have used this on several 240s and 510s. It works great and I have amazingly not changed the timing for years. I will never go back to points as they were unpredictable, poorly manufactured and needed constant fiddling. NEVER again!!! Soon after rebuild, my current ITS engine developed a slight misfire whose exact cause could not be isolated. I tried my backups: carb/manifold assembly, distributor, Allison trigger, coil, wires, etc. Nothing worked as the engine would stumble when accelerating through about 3000 rpm and would finally hit what felt like a crisp spot only when reaching above about 5500 rpm. I don't have a dyno so my seat of the pants is about as accurate as it gets. I decided to try the Jacobs computer, coil and wires, $500 - ouch! I suppose I could have tried the MSD that some of my competitors use but for some reason I didn't. The car started right up and since I was still using my old trigger, it didn't need re-timing. It idled smoothly. The tach(3 wire) worked perfectly. I took it out on the road and in 4th gear at 1500 rpm it pulled aggressively and smoothly up to 6500 rpm. Gone were all hints of hesitation. The engine sounded crisper and felt much more powerful. I then ran this test as well as full throttle tests starting in lower gears and was amazed at the performance. Since this time my car has run flawlessly and has won many races. I can honestly say that the $500 I spent is the best money I ever spent on this car. Look at it this way. A new set of Hoosiers will cost you just over $500 and how many sets will you run over time? And no, I don't get any kickback from Jacobs. Coop

Have you looked here: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html I'll cut & paste what i found: HOW TO HOOK UP THE E12-80 MODULE and D2 DISTRIBUTOR INTO A 240Z? (If you have a 280Z or 280ZX don't do this mod) The module must be mounted on a 1979-83 280ZX distributor (won't work on points or D1). Connect a key-off +12V supply to the "B" terminal on the distributor IC module and coil +. Then connect the module's "C" terminal to the coil's negative terminal. Make sure the metal rear of the module is clean so it can ground itself to the side of the distributor. Remove the triangular hold-down plate on the base of the distributor. Burnish it, as well as the spot where it contacts the distributor and replace. This helps everything ground well to the block. Use quality spade lugs and wire with TIGHT crimps, and solder the wire/spade connections if possible. Don't solder or crimp onto the module though, just make sure the spades fit on tight. A 240 tach will not work with this setup since it's loop wiring can no longer connect to the coil. Replace it with a 75-78 280Z tach and connect the tach sensor lug to the - terminal on the coil. If the tach jumps around, solder a 7500-10,000 ohm resistor inline with the sensor wire to reduce the signal voltage. If it still won't work buy a Autometer #3990 black face tach. WARNING: if you have a MSD or Crane, DON'T hookup the module or tach to the coil. The 450 volts will fry it. Follow ignition's hookup guide instead. 280Z TACH INTO A 240Z I would recommend getting rid of your old 240Z tach. Vintage, but not designed well, they're inaccurate and start jumping around as they age: Replace it with a 1975-78 280Z tach. Put the new tach in the 240 metal housing, and swap the faceplates to keep the redline accurate. The needle pops off, don't damage it. A drop of rubber cement might be needed to put it back on. Don't use superglue or you'll never get it off again. Connect the tach's sensor lug to the negative terminal on the coil. NOTE: Make sure you reverse the power leads on the back of the tach, compare them before you swap for a reference. The little "loop plug" from the 240 tach should be plugged back into the wiring harness in the dash, otherwise the car won't start. If you have trouble getting the tach to work, a simpler solution is to replace it with a 5" aftermarket model like Autometer makes

Try here: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ They sell the SEM dye, and could give you excellent info about its application. HTH, Jeremiah

Did you move the distributor and throw off the timing maybe?

Think of a fusible link as a giant wire fuse. On my 260, there are 2 of them, mounted in a box on the fender in front of the battery. The 240 i haven't been in recently- but i think there's a heavy maybe white/red wire from the wiring harness down by the starter? Got a manual??

CLUNKING REAR END From "the Z Garage": This is the bane of all Zcars, it's almost impossible to completely fix. It can have many causes, but is almost never caused by the internals of the differential, especially if it's an R-200. The following are all the places the clunking can exist: worn out mustache bar bushings (replace with urethane) u-joints on the halfshaft ends are loose and worn-out (common, replace them) tighten all the mounting bolts/nuts on both ends of the halfshafts front differential mount broken (try tightening the 14mm nut in the bottom first) driveshaft bolts loose ball bearings/grooves in halfshaft body worn (replace halfshaft) tighten the two large nuts that hold the differential to the mustache bar shocks bad or loose in strut I personally think most of the time it's caused by the mustache bar bushings. These thin rubber bushings rot and flex and let the bar clunk the floor on acceleration.

Fusible link that cooked?? I think that there is a fusible link in series there, maybe your starter was fine to begin with? I'm at work with no manuals, so i'm just guessing here for now...

If i remember right, the negative battery cable is bolted at the upper starter mount (bolt goes thru the cable end & into the tranny housing) The positive cable bolts to the solenoid, then a spade connector slides on the end of the solenoid, to actuate the whole deal. Oh, and i think there's an attachment from the wiring harness that bolts on with the + cable too... Hope that helps, Jeremiah

Well, first off i would suggest using the "search" function for posts about storage, etc etc. But basically, visually check everything, maybe pull the plugs & give each cylinder a shot of oil, let it sit a bit & slowly turn the motor. Not a bad idea to unhook the coil when first cranking, to allow the engine to get lubed before taking right off. Maybe even pull the valve cover & oil manually if its been too long. Otherwise, a basic tuneup- plugs, wires, oil/filters, check ignition system.. These are really tough cars- i doubt you'd hurt it to just start cranking her over, but i tend to baby my babies:love: Good luck, Jeremiah

My wife got me one for Christmas- last time i was at my local WallyWorld, they had 5 or 6 in stock. I guess the damn locals don't understand beauty:stupid: If anyone can't find one locally- just ask- one of us will help you out (for a nominal fee...or Z parts-to-be-determined-laterROFL )

Hi Paul, Wow!! The car looks great! Glad to hear you've come so far with it- nice to see you here and on the mailing list... I feel as though i know some of the people in my little Z world better than i know my extended family! Take care, keep up the good work:classic: Jeremiah

As far as i know, the early Z cars all had black armrests and dash, regardless of interior color. Of course, my Z's came black inside, so what do i know? But i am pretty sure the 240/60 and maybe 280 were only black. I would think that the SEM vinyl dye would work great if you wanted to color match though. Zya, Jeremiah

Victor, you must mean "Zihad"ROFL

try ebay. i got a pair of blanks for about $5 Haven't looked in awhile, but they used to be listed regularly http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2409345176&category=6763

Early or late 260? How are the bumpers (i need an early rear)? I'l get back to you if i think of anything else, and pass the word around here in NY, if you're willing to ship. ThankZ Jeremiah

Hi Dozer- sure is a small world- i did 2 years of high school in Alfred, and Keith (2many) has ties there as well!! So what is your real name, in the event i flag you down one day? And have you hooked up with ZCCR yet?

Oh boy, oh boy, Now i have 2 sreennames to explain! Too bad there's not too much to explain:stupid: Axrph@wycol.com is/was my email address that i have used for what seems forever- i used that so i wouldn't have to remember different logins at different sites. "Ax" = first letters of my last name, "rph" = registered pharmacist. I have decided its time to move up to DSL after years of dialup internet service. This means a change in providers- so new email and a shot for another sreenname! And, duh, its real simple: Axtellz my last name + Z Could be taken as slang for 'the Axtell's" too, i guess. Pretty boring stuff, but at least some of you have kept this thread pretty entertaining. Zya Jeremiah Axtell

As long as we're on the subject of starters- I ordered a replacement from www.rockauto.com (1 866 ROCKAUTO). They had a choice of 3 starters, Worldwide Parts, Delco, and Bosch. i believe prices were $22, 47, and 54. So being cheap and assuming a starter is a starter, i ordered the Worldwide unit. When i opened the box, lo and behold, it is remanufactured by AC Delco:cheeky: When it is really warm here in NY, i'll find out how well it works!

Mine's a late 260, its a black rubber/plasticey knob, with the basic 4 speed shift pattern on top, set in a green blackground. I *assume* its original, but don't know. Sorry, no pics. Did you look in a MSA or VB catalog? I think they show all styles.

The 260 also had some cursed "anti-theft" i think they called it- the seatbelts had to be hooked, tranny in neutral, maybe something else i am forgetting. I seem to remember disconnecting the wires that are beneath the seats, and mine wouldn't turn over either, till i plugged them back together. Been awhile, but you may check it out?? Otherwise i'd try jumping across the starter solenoid like mentioned earlier. Good luck!

As far as a fellow Z-lover checking a car out, I had excellent help. I just asked on the "little" mail list from this site- Kyle Hageman and Darren Black drove about an hour (1 way) to check out a V-8 Z for me! Gave me a very accurate depiction, as well as a heap of digital pictures. Unfortunately, the car was way too beat for $4000, so i passed. They did this for nothing, just to check out another Z... I did speak to Kyle & tried to get his address to mail a few bucks to buy a pizza and a case of beer, but he wouldn't take it. I have to say I'd do the same for someone else, FWIW. Better luck next time, Jeremiah

Ac Carl said, drill 'em out. It is very soft metal, you'll be through it in no time. Rather than use the EZ-out, i just used a 1/4" or so bit & drilled the whole deal away. Your drill chuck will be REALLY close to the dash/guage pod, so be really careful that you dont bump into it & mess up the dash. Really low-tech fix, but workz for me.:stupid:

Man-o-man, this place makes me smile day after day..... I do have a pair of hounds, but just plain house mutts- a chow/husky and a chocolate lab mix. But, I did have a Black & Tan Coon hound in high school (had to make $$ the easy way, wouldn't want to actually work!) Guess i'm still a farmer/country boy, what can i say. Keith, does Pepper know how to hunt pheasants yet??

So you guys are telling me I'm the only backwoods hick hunter here?? Gotta eat my "speedbeef"