AxtellZ

the other thing is location- Zya. JA

Duh..., forgot to ask Alex- what year did you buy? 70 to 72 SU carbs as a rule are far better, IMO. As far as manifold, for a stock motor the difference is marginal at best. I have heard of 5 to 10 hp gains, but i could only see that on a well tuned race engine. Give us a few more specifics and you'll get more answers for sure. HTH, good to have you here! Jeremiah

Hi all, transferring this from the "introduce yourself" thread, to get Alex an answer: Hi: my name is Alex and I have been a z-holic for one week now. Bought a nice clean and straight 240Z from a friend for $800. No major rust, the engine runs well (needs the carbs tuned though), and the interior is clean and uncut. No interest in restoring this car to pristine beauty but looking to build it up for back country rally racing. I look forward to pestering many of ya'll for help. BTW would installing Weber Carbs and a N36 intake improve my performance greatly over the stock carbs?

Yikes, hadn't thought of that Escanlon! Very good point. I would certainly skip it for that reason. For my "refreshed" carbs here in NY the ATF does work well in my 260, but so does the motorcycle fork oil (20W) in my 240, FWIW. JA

Well, I only have 73 & 74, they both came with both electric and mechanical fuel pumps, so i am not sure. Are you using SU carbs? I would doubt it would make a difference, unless you've run into fuel starvation symptoms, or are racing or such. I think the stock mechanical pump provides enough fuel to keep the bowls fairly full, but as i say, i only have experience with the later cars. At any rate, it certainly can't hurt, as long as the pressure is kept regulated. HTH, JA

Haven't tried brake fluid, but i imagine it would work- the viscosity seems about right. I would avoid it due to it's paint remover qualities, but as long as you don't drip it should be fine.I use ATF, which is about the same viscosity i think. JA

Haven't ordered anything, but i've stumbled across this one: http://www.zzxdatsun.com HTH, JA

heres what MSA emailed me when i was shopping: "We do have the European springs, they don't lower the car (so if you have original springs, your car is likely to go back up substantially) and they are 11-18% stiffer than stock. The Eibachs lower the car about 1" from stock ride height, and are progressive, where they will be not far from stock while cruising straight down the highway for comfort, but when you corner they can get up to 25% stiffer. If you are NOT going to race at all with these springs, the Eibachs would be a good bet. If you do plan to race later with these springs, we would recommend the Tokico springs, which are up to 25% stiffer than stock, and just the fronts are slightly progressive. Apart from stock, all will feel fairly stiffer, even the European ones. If going back to original stock ride height is not a good option for you (plenty of space above the tires) than don't choose the Europeans. " If this leaves you with some more questions, let us know, you can also request a current catalog at www.zcarparts.com/catalog.cfm Motorsport Auto 1139 West Collins Ave Orange, CA 92867 Sales (800)633-6331 Tech (714)639-2620 www.zcarparts.com www.miataparts.com

As far as the wipers slow and slower settings- you may find just removing the assembly and cleaning all the crud out of it, then relubricating and reinstalling all the pivot points will make a Huge difference in the speed. May try that before throwing money at it. HTH, JA

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815850834&r=0&t=0 probably not real good for daily driving, but racers may be interested..

I'm not really sure what you're asking:confused: Can you be more specific as to what works or doesn't, or what- you mean the carbs were adjusted to control a sticky float? I'll help if i can, just not really sure whats wrong!? JA

first of all, i'll recommend buying the ztherapy tuning video. As far as using the unisyn- you have a round disc, with an adjustable wheel in the center, and a "tube with a ball" attatched. The idea is to hold the disc over the carb, (remove air cleaner first) and the little ball will "float" from the vacuum. It is important to hold the unisyn on the carbs only a little while to get a reading, leaving it too long will give an inaccurate measure. Use the wheel to adjust the air flow so that the floaty ball is centered within its tube. you then go to the other carb to check they are drawing at the same rate. Make very small changes in idle/mixture to adjust. You can also "hear" the balance when the engine is accelrated- put your head down between the carbs and rev the motor- you'll hear the vacuum raise the carb piston & can tell if they go in synch. Hope that helps, don't know how much or little you need to know..try www.ztherapy.com and for Kyle's directions: http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/ztech.html Good luck, JA

My tenant, Rod, just parted out an 81ZXT- don't know if he has one,none, or all, but send him an email about it disco_rod@hotmail.com Tell him Jeremiah sent you;)

I *think* that Eric at www.zparts.com has said that he has them, but i may be mistaken. May be worth asking though. HTH, Jeremiah

Yep, take the lapbelt, and where the metal-buckle is attatched to the fabric belt, you need to push aside the fabric- you'll see a slot that the shoulder clips into. Take a look, you'll see! JA

guy geo just posted - thought of you in maine! http://www.ee.pdx.edu/~wittiner/forsale2.html hope u find a Z! JA

i am NOT an electrical guy, nor have i had this problem, but i would *guess* it is the VR going bad. Seems i have read/heard these symptoms together. What i do remember is the rule of three- that is the Battery, Voltage Regulator, and alternator will tend to all die together, especially if you let one of them go to long. Hope someone else can tell you more, Good luck! JA

Hey Jake! are you converting Z's for your ownself, or as a business/service or what? I have been considering a V8 in my 73 for years now. Now that i own 2 Z's, it looks a bit more practical- except its beyond my scope of abilities, i fear.. I may consider hiring it done, if i find the right person/price. Would this be your gig, or know of an able & worthwhile shop? Thanks! JA

Welcome ranz! good to have you here- the computer will grow on you.. soon any time not in the Z- will be spent learning/chatting/searching about your Z via the computer, if you're like most of us! Zya, JA

yep, znz is right. are you having trouble with the current radiator? In Montreal, i can't see the need to upgrade, unless you'll be running AC all the timeLOL Here in NY i replaced one of mine with a 2 row from JC whitney (aka Carparts.com) about 9 years ago- was cheap & still fully functional- never have a problem with overheating, cuz it never gets too hot here for more than a week. I imagine you'll be in the same (or worse) boat.. Now if you were in the desert, thats another story..Good luck! JA

Hey Ken- i beat you by one minute to give the same answer...Zpooky, or what?? JA:p

Wow, very well written! I think i speak for all to say "DITTO"! JA

as far as i know, yes, everything should swap completely. I believe all the 74 1/2 to 78 possibly, but particularly 77/78. Another option would be SEM vinyl dye, available from Les at classicdatsun.com Good luck! JA

Hi Baddog- congrats on the car- where in "upstate NY" are you? Might be able to find some local Z folks to hook up with. I am south of Rochester www.zccr.net for my club, or www.zany.com i think is the Albany area gang. Zya

i've gotta agree with Daniel here! Having replaced my 73 exhaust 7 or 8 years ago- totally stock- it took 3 or 4 weeks for parts orders, and almost $300. In retrospect, i really wish i'd had my local exhaust shop build a custom system- would have cost a bit less, alot faster, and probably be more functional. For now i'll just wait for what i have to fail. Good luck, JA