montoya_fan01

same weekend it always is. Last weekend of April.

Yeah, I'm not too surprised, thats probably not a bad deal if it hasn't been milled too much. I bought an 70,000 mile L24 w/ an unmilled, small chamber (E31 style) E88 head, a Type B trans, an R180 diff and some other assorted parts for $200. Having that Engine/Head rebuilt allowed me to save my E31, and the original engine from my car for a later project. I probably value my E31 more than most people would, but that's fine with me since I want to keep it.

I've been offered $200 by one guy (several times) for the spare E31 that I have. I still haven't sold it to him.

what Jon said.

I'm not so sure of some of his statements. On a regular 2 or 4 barrel carb, when you mash the pedal when trying to start a car you are activating the accellerator pump to force gas into the engine. The SU's don't have an accelerator pump so mashing the pedal should have little if any effect. Also, if compression is bad "since the gas flsuhed all oil of the cylinders", why not just squirt a little oil into each spark plug hole and manually rotate the crankshaft a few times (or disconnect the coil and rotate it on the starter) to distribute oil onto the cylinder walls? I can't imagine why you'd have to pull the car to accomplish this. Of course, he is working on your car for free, and if you ride herd on him well he probably won't mess up the car.

You will not find any speakers (OEM speakers that is) above the strut housings (towers) on a 240 or 260Z. Any perforations in the interior panels in that area are for the fresh air vents that are part of the "Z" emblems on the exterior. OEM speaker location is low on the side panel at the rear of the side panel, and the OEM speaker diameter is approximately 5" (the exact size of this OEM speaker is very difficult to find now days. I suspect the brackets offered in the above posted link use a commonly available substitute size speaker.

unless you have Directv, then it's at 4AM PDT (channel 269)

Oh, I leave that up to you Mr. Legal Advice

Good Luck Chris, Let us know how it turns out for you

..so does mold if you stand out in the rain long enough.

That is a very famous film. It can be purchased on DVD Rendevous in Paris More recently there have been films such as Getaway in Stockholm that show similar blasts through cites of the world.

Part at the top of the pic is not the mustache bar. He will need the 280Z mustache bar AND the part I mentioned which is more of a "curved cross member" if his car doesn't already have one.. See THIS attachment

"Audi Doody"

I think he's talking about the curved piece that wraps around the back of the diff. On early 240Zs this piece was straight, and would not clear an R200. (part at the top of the attached picture)

You could lift the rubber boot on the outer tie rod. When I did that it was plainly obvious what the cause of my "pop" was. Big chunk of metal was missing from the cast housing and pulverized into the grease contained within. I'd think the inner tie rod would be less likely to be the cause, but any of the tie-rods, ball joint, or the anti-roll bar links could be a cause. Examine it all.

While I concur with your opinion of reman parts from the local auto parts store, I also believe that you won't have any such "quality issues" if you stick to the Nissan Reman Dizzys mentioned in previous posts. The ones that I've purchased (D612's) have been absolutely first rate.

Reman D612 or Reman ZX dizzy. As far as I'm concerned, either one is a viable option. But I think it's pretty short-sighted to be snagging a 20+ yr old dizzy out of a JY for an "upgrade" to a car. Anyone is welcome to disagree, but they don't call'em JY's for nothing!

Not all Ball joints / Tie Rod Ends have a grease fitting or even a provision for one (hole with bolt). OEM parts and higher quality ones WILL have them, but some of the lesser quality aftermarket parts WILL NOT. The manufacturer/distributor will tell you they are "Lifetime Lubricated" or some such thing. Believe them if you want. Someone, sometime replaced parts on one side of your car.

Maybe, (I hope so) but lawyers cost money. This should be a lesson to all who read this thread. INSPECT YOUR CAR THOROUGHLY before you pay your deductible, sign anything, or take possession of a car that has been repaired. Once you sign or take possession, coming back to the shop with "issues" can get complicated.

Bartman: One may be named "push-on" and the other, not However, they both DO "push on" to the pinch weld of the car. Second, Even though the designs of the two are slightly different, I submit to you that the price differential is largely due the fact that one p/n is for a pkg containing a 13.5 ft length of seal, and the other is for a pkg containing 25.0 ft of seal. FWIW, I know of a guy who successfully used JC Whitney # 13SB2561U weatherseal on his 240Z

I'd go with the D612 Nissan "Reman" Distributor mentioned by 26th-Z, and I'd stuff a Pertronix into it so you don't have to muck about with points. Save the new points and condensor that come the reman dist. so you can reinstall if you ever miss adjusting points. No point in plucking a ZX dist in unknown condition (probably half or more worn out) from a JY, IF you can even find one with the right module.

YOU CANNOT BE SURE, he hasn't acknowledged the people who tried to help him.

Is that the same Albrecht Goertz that designed the 240Z ? ? ?

Google is your friend: Google Search Results

Jonathan, I'll take another set, to make my purchase a total of 2 sets.