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Zs-ondabrain

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Posts posted by Zs-ondabrain

    OK I just drew this up real quick so fogive the crudeness of it.. I put in 4 X 6" speakers with seperate tweeters. I also gave an example of what the mounting bracket would look like.

    A 4" 2-way or even 5" 2-way (speaker with tweeter mounted inside) could even be used if I make it that way. Let me know what Ya'll think.

    Dave.

    Dave,

    Good idea!

    Would a set of the actual covers help in development?

    Will

    Not sure yet. I know how I'd like to mount them and I know I need to keep with the shape of the vertical wall to the left and right of each side.

    What I'm looking for from YOU guys is a general concences of what size speaker is prefered. 4" or 4" X 6"??

    I think the best outer look would be the thin foam and thin vinyl (Maybe even diamond shape like the OEM style. Not likely to have the welting on it though.

    I'd have to custom make the speaker grill for the pods because 4" and 4X6" typically DO NOT have grills in the package because those size speakers are for under and behind OEM locations and grills aren't neccesary.

    We'll see, and thanks for the possible parts. But I think I'll start from scratch on this one.

    Dave.

    I'm thinking 3/16" ABS sheets or maybe start with 1/8" plywood then fiberglass it to reinforce the structure. I'm working on the details tonight.

    The ABS is formable and sandable to make every thing smooth, then I could put 1/8" foam then Black vinyl over that to make it look as stock as possible.

    I'll let ya know when I figure it out.

    Dave.

    Back to the garage, I'm working on a cardboard template at the moment

    let's see if I can get this picture on here.....

    this is with a 4X6" speaker and there would be a grill over it with speaker cloth. I'm thinking Black vinyl with black grill clothe to make it blend right in to the tower.

    You would have to premount a mounting plate (to screw into) onto the tower using the stock strut bolts. It definately would'nt go any where. what do you think?

    would you guys be interested in a speaker pod that sits atop the strut tower, houses a 3". or 4" or 4"X 6" 2-way speaker?????

    I've been thinking about the same thing as "RP975" but was'nt real sure on the concept of it or what people would like. So let me know, I'll go make some measurements while the Z is in Limbo (preping for paint) and see what's feazable ( height, length, width, where to run the wire? Ect, Ect.

    Keep in mind that you can also drop a small length of chain in there and wiggle or swirl it around using a tilting motion, this will knock loose all of the rust flakes and chips and such that plain old spraying doesn't do.

    Add some water before doing that so the chunks will float out a little easier when you dump it and spray it again. The Eastwood company also make a tank lining liquid that pours in, your swirl it around to coat everything and you're done for a very long time to come. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=382&itemType=PRODUCT

    Just a thought,

    Dave.

    You did'nt think I'd let her sit under all that snow did ya.

    and the second picture is from the other side of the garage door. Ys I tore into a few weeks agao to prep her for paint. I sure as hell ain't gonna drive in this crap. Watch the weather channel about the N. Seattle area. I live near Arlington and Everett WA.

    Ok, I renamed the thread. It's awesome that your car will be featured in the game. Cool stuff! When does the game come out? I looked for it tongiht and didn't see it.

    Dave, do you think you can ask the developers to send us some snapshots of the 240z ?

    I'm not real sure when it comes out, I thought it already was out.

    I'll ask Mike, one of the developers, if he can do that for me (us). I also read that I'm supposed to receive a copy of the game when it's released. That'll be my incentive to buy a 360

    Dave, I merged your threads together. No sense in having two separate threads about the same topic. :)

    Mike,

    I wrote up a new thread because I could'nt change the title. It sucked and did'nt get the responce I was looking for.

    That's why I started it again but with "Members 240Z on front page of new X-Box game site" for a title. right idea, wrong title of thread.

    There is another thread about this subject but the title of the thread suggests that it's all about "playing the game" Does anyone here play Forza Motorsport 2

    Please read the story in the link below on My 240Z featured on X-box's game site. Let me know what ya think. I could use the input.

    Turn 10 Dyno Spotlight: Dave Irwin's 1970 Nissan/Datsun 240Z

    ClassicZcars is mentioned on the last page. Thanks again Mike.

    Dave.

    Thank you. and the 510 was sold with over 300,000 miles on it for $500 to a friend who blew it up showing off for his giorl friend. He was going sideways in 3rd gear, up hill when he threw a piston out the side of the block.

    Then he tried to say it was my fault for selling him a bad car with a worn out motor. Yes, he was and is still, A RETARD.

    Thanks for the link.

    All tell you what he means for $5............. Just kiddin, He's not telling you that the wire that runs from the alternator has a fusable link then goes into the white red wire, (CHECK THE CONNECTOR AT THE ALTERNATORS FUSABLE LINK) From there, it goes straight to the fusebox, then from the fuse box to the ammeter. From there the wire is solid white and goes back to the fusebox, but not before it is "T"'d for a run to the fusable link on the starter and also goes to the voltage regulator as a white wire.

    here is what I have in GIF form it is a ZIP file so you will need to unzip it to read it. If you can't read it or I sent the wrong one email me at the e-mailbelow (in my signiture) and I'll send it that way.

    Good luck,

    Dave.

    And After you fix the problem, please buy one of my harness's so this does'nt happen again. Your Z problems are the perfect example for having my upgrade harness. Click the link below marked "Headlight Upgrade Harness Link...."

    You won't be sorry.

    Thanks for all the advice Jim, If you ever up north in my neck of the woods, stop in for a cup of coffee or something. I'm off to wesco tomorrow for that Xtreme primer and some buffing pads and what ever else I can afford at the moment...

    Dave.

    I have painted a few cars in the past so I do know a bit about refinishing however I am not that familar with por15. The more I read into it the more confused I get so maybe someone here can give me some good common sence help. I have a 76z that has some surface rust areas but not all that bad. The only place that is through is the bottom of the passenger fender. These areas are pitted pretty bad and I plan on sand blasting with fine blasting media at low psi to get the rust out. What POR15 product should I put over these areas. If I brush this on after using the prep. Can I sand and feather edge the POR15 to get rid of the brush marks. If the POR15 works so well on the bare metal what is there primer for? Is POR15 reccomended for the exterior finish areas. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Jim

    I'm not that sure on most of your questions but I DO know this......

    Make sure you use the clean up chemical that they suggest!!! Use there por-15 Solvent or the laquer thinner that they tell you about on the can. CLEAN YOUR GUN IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR DONE SPRAYIN!!!

    The reason I stress this is I STILL HAVE POR-15 COMING OUT OF MY GUN 6 USES LATER!! I cleaned the gun 2 times after spraying my suspension parts and still did'nt get all of it.

    As for the primer question... I think it's a matter of adhesion. They say it sticks best to sandblasted and rough surfaces, the primer most likely gives your work surface that slight edge for the por 15 to stick to.

    It will peel right off of shiny and slick surface, trust me, I know this one well.

    I had to RE-rough up the surfaces that were too slick on my suspension then respray them. I knicked the surface after curing and it chipped and peeled off with ease.

    This product requires the user to be maticulas at every turn of the job.

    Hope that helps a little,

    Dave.

    Well I just got done wet sanding out the boo boos from yesterday and it turned out OK. I only had to touch up a small area on one of the lips because I stayed there too long and sanded thru the clear coat.

    I touched it up with my air brush so it only took a teaspoon of paint and reducer. It dried quick then I cleared it with about 4 coats, so I can wet sand again without going thru the clear this time.

    Now I have to figue out how to buff it properly without hurting all the work I just did. Back to Wesco for the right buffing equipment.

    I'd still rather learn the hard way then pay some one else my hard earned money. Then if I get good enough, I can do side jobs and make a living out of it. Yah, that's the winning ticket!!!

    I was advised by our automotive paint store to try this product. It is sweet to work with.

    http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/5425_x2k.html

    It is a direct to metal epoxy fill primer or sealer.

    Just my 2Cs

    Thanks alot JIM,

    After visiting the site and reading up on it, I'm sold.... I'll be picking up a gallon this week. Especially after yesterdays little mishap on my cowl panel. I sprayed too much clear and the filler primer started to lift but settled back down but not before the clear coat hardened in the upright position.

    Time to wet sand.....and sand and sand.... I'm still new at the whole "paint your own car " thing. Live and learn I guess.

    Dave.

    Proper customer care would include me calling the manufacturer about this and giving as much detail from my customers as possible. This might also include me having my header customer mark the affected area so I could give the manufacturers A real good heads-up or idea of Just what the problem is.

    But that's just me. I try my damndest to take care of each and every one of my upgrade harness customers. Even if I have them send the product back so I cam repair or even replace the harness. And it's usually at NO cost to them. Sometimes I even cover the shipping.

    I've also found that the customer service I provide has brought me repeat business as well as new customers thru word of mouth.

    JM2C.

    And back to the original structure of this thread........ The article will be online by Friday for those of you who care. Please let me know your opinion on the matter after friday..

    Dave.

    Just remember that part of the sound on My Z comes from a 480/280 stage 2 CAM.

    As for the header vs. the intake manifold. It's not a big deal to remove some aluminum from the manifold. In my case, I do not use the water line that heats the intakes so even if I were to grind too far into the manifold, There would'nt be any leaks.

    I just wasn't about to start grinding or pounding on my new header. I had a spare intake so it was no big deal for me to take a chance on grinding it.

    1) It fit fine except for the whole intake hitting the manifold thing but that's typical on the MSA headers. I just shaved the intake lip a little and it went on fine.

    2) The new exhaust pipe was fitted to the old header. When I installed the new ceramic coated header, The mating flange on the exhaust pipe was not exact to the headers flange so I twisted the pipe a little to get the bolts in. Now the pipe sites a little close to the tranni but no real issues yet.

    3) I used the standard gasket because the Heavy Duty ones get brittle and break loose.

    4) When I got the car four years ago, It still had the original exhaust system on it. I got a used header and 5-peice kit exhaust kit from JZM (Johnny) and installed that. I used that system till March of 06' when they installed the new pipe. The ceramic header went on 3 months later.

    5) the harness actually adds weight (about 1.3 pounds) so it would slow ya down. ROFL

    Thanks and keep an eye out for the write up next friday. http://forzamotorsport.net/devcorner/dyno/

    And you can also get a good look at the exhaust in the video I made.

    http://media.putfile.com/new-exhaust--Idle-from-under-the-car
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