Zs-ondabrain

Same thing here, On my 510. The bottom bolts on the radiator came off (or I forgot to tighten them) and when I hit 2nd gear hard, the radiator lunged right into the fan blade.

The unit on ebay is an adjustable mechanical advance only. No vaccum to worry about. As for drilling the intake, Don't do it!! That's how I blew out MY vaccum advance and it cost $30 to replace the vaccum pot. if you need a vaccum for the dizzy, you need to get it BEFORE the butterfly on the carb. taking it from the intake manifold is TOO MUCH for the vaccum on any dizzy. Unless you have a reducer of some sort (like a pinhole, no bigger than about 1mm or so.) I wish I had mechanical when I had my triples. Oh well. Dave

here ya go. if you pay $200 or $300, you're still getting a deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240-260-280z-Mallory-Unilite-Distributor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3ca59e25b2QQitemZ260476642738QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts

I chose Restorations and Modifications. Half of the fun of owning a peice of history, that is worth putting in a Museum, is Working on the Z. Wether it be restoring it or modifying it with new Technologies like Power windows, stereos, seats, body parts (cowl induction hoods-spoilers-air dams-wheels-etc) Killer paint jobs and the list goes on. A creative Z is the work of many man hours, blood, sweat and tears. Not to mention hard work to make the money to put into your Custom car. Any car can be a peice of art work, when seen thru the eyes of the owner who loves the Said car. A lot of people don't like or appreciate some of the things I've done to my "Little Red Nightmare" because of their purest back ground, and some can't see why other Z owners haven't done the things I've done to mine. To each his own. Even brand new cars can be improved on and that's why the "Automotive Aftermarket Industry" is one of the largest markets in the world. Look at SEMA for an example. Billions of dollars in business because people want to make their cars "Their Own" Great Poll. Dave

Done, But it's nice to see that my 70' is in the top 6 still. "DatsunDave07's 70' 240Z. And my 260Z is in the #10 spot under 260Z, all years. The whole site makes me feel better about everything I've done, when people comment and give ya 5 stars and nominate ya. Dave

Yup, I had similar issues with my triple 40DCOE's and advancing the timing helped a little. Different altitudes will also effect the timing. Advancing should also bring up your idle. The only problem with running Vaccum advance on triples is they are not typically set up for Vaccum Advance. The VA has to be place before the buuterfly on the #1 Weber. If you put the VA after the butterfly, on the intake manifold, you'll suck your vaccum advance diaphram out or suck a hole into it, causing it to malfunction. I blew out my $30 diaphram on my Mallory Unilite by doing that exact wrong thing. Dave

Sounds like a weak electrical system. Watch your Ammeter/volts meter as well. You may see it doing something similar. The headlights use more power than almost anything else in the car, so with all that power draw, the tach is showing the jump in usage from the Turn signal. I might suggest a Headlight Upgrade Harness or upgrade to the 81' to 83' 280ZX alternator and ZXP adaptor. Dave

Unfortunately, most people forget about Acid Rain, which actually "Etches" the glass. And no amount of cleaning may help. Just keep that in mind if you can't get them out. Dave

check your Private Messages

LOL Caught that did ya? Could'nt help myself, but it's not like Tom doesn't ask for it. I'm almost too busy to put the effort into "Plugs" now-a-days. Dave.

Too bad everyone forgets about the "Electrical Guy" who lives less than 15 minutes from Tyler. Hint Hint

Don't be another one of Tom's "Enablers" He's always looking for an argument. Great video, love the whole Benny Hill bit with the vid, that's always funny. Toms just jealous that he can't do anything more than get a Poof of smoke from 1 tire in a hard corner. He can't even spell tire right. Hehehe Hey Tom, this is how ya do it...... Dave

I've actually done the "Mental Tear down and rebuild" in my mind many times but this really helps put things into perspective. I do my best learning while "Having Fun" Keep it up. Dave

See there? Now I know you're bored.... You need to walk away from the Hospital Magazines for a while there Kirk!! How are things with your Daughter? Good I hope. Dave

with weatherstripping glue from 3M. Make sure the surface i very clean, lay a smal bead on the surface and the rubber itself. Let them sit for about 30 to 60 seconds before applying the rubber to the car. Basically, it's contact cement so let both sides air dry for a minute before installing. Either clean up immediately or let dry before peeling.

Being the Electrical guy that I am, I can totally appreciate everything you're saying. But at the same time I'd have to dissagree with your statement on the 2nd paragraph of "There is no need to upgrade your marker, parking, etc, etc wiring harnesses if you use LED technology" As I have LED's on every socket of the parking light circuit and they finally got brighter apon adding the PLH or Parking light upgrade harness. Reason being is that the old wiring, connectors and lack of a relayed circuit caused a mere 10 volts at the rear drivers side sidemarker (one of the furthestpoints from the switch). Yes, LED's draw significantly LESS amperage but still reguire a true 12 volts, which most 240Z's do not supply. I'm not here to argue the fine points, trust me. I appreciate almost all electrical, lighting, LED, ignition and alternator upgrades and or improvements done to the 240Z's. So Please do all of your intended improvements and get back with us. That's what it's all about here, Restoring and improving our beloved Zcars. Whether on a budget or unlimited bank account, we all try and help each other in some manner or another. Have a great week-end and keep us updated on your progress. Dave

Well, While you're on that road, take a left...... You've basically written everything that I have already covered in many many forums and threads. I am THE MSA supplier for the headlight relay Upgrade Harness that you've seen on their site. PM or email me for discounted or wholesale pricing. I also make everything on their "New Technologies" page, except for the fusebox's. I also do a full LED taillight conversion on all S30 taillights. Check these out........ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19193&page=2 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15179 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20151 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30704 There's plenty to keep ya busy and I make plenty to upgrade your Z into the 21st Century. Consider the price of replacing the 36+ year old 240Z wiring, combo and turn signal switches, fusebox and other related items when you look at the prices of my upgrades. Each one is hand built, with new parts and Guaranteed to work and be one of the best things you can do to your 240Z's electrical system.

I had that thought too but Both Carbs? Having the same issue at the same time? I', stumped.

Do you have the DVD from ZTherapy? Have you spoke with bruce? none of this makes sense. You got short valves, tab bent away and still won't spill over into the carbs??? Somethings definately wrong. What about sending them in for a rebuild. Or a new set. I'm truly sorry, I'm as stuck as you are at this point. DAve

Proper is about 10mm. Pull the float bowl valve. If it has any washers on the threaded part, remove them. This will assist in the raising of your fuel level because it will bring the valve closer to the top of the float bowl. If it has 2 washers, remove one. if only one, then remove it. Pay attension to the tab that contacts the valve, bend it away from the valve to bring your fuel level up. I don't understand why yours is being so damn difficult.

Oops, your right but you get the idea. You don't have to remove the carbs for adjusting them. Leave them on. as for number 4, make sure it's not activating the throttle.

That's an electronic ignition, most likely an E12-80 out of a 280ZX. You should be able to adjust the carbs to no air at all and it dies. Basically, you're missing something. I find that most people miss the ballance screw on the linkage that connects the 2 carbs. Using the picture below, loosen #1 till it's NOT touching at all, that's your fast idle screw, used for tuning carbs at around 3000 RPM. Make sure your return springs are snug and pulling the throttle closed. If they are loose, the car will idle fast. Loosen #2, 3 and 4. #2 is the ballance screw I spoke of. It ballances the carbs so the linkage operates both carbs at the same time. Loosen it until both carbs work at the exact same time with every push of the throttle. Loosen #3 and 4 then slowly turn them back in until the just touch the idle plate, then give them about 3/4 more turn (clockwise). Then start fine tuning with your flow meter. ALSO, make sure that Vaccum pot that is on the ballance tube, attached to the front carb, is not holding the carb open as well. Loosen that. If I'm wrong, Bruce or someone else will let me and you know. Dave

After searching the site, it'slooking like a minimal order is the #5 which is 500 Sq, feet for $1560. It comes with all the thinners, hardeners, base coat, silver, clear and all it's parts. I was thinking Taillight trim, door chrome, gauge bezels, faded mirrors, engine compartment items, front grill? fuel tank? and there's still plenty left over to make a profit. If I had a shop, I'd have everyone send me their items and a check and that would easily pay for itself.

Just watch some stuff on SPEED about SEMA and saw the add for "SPECTRA CHROME" And I'm thinking it would be a great alternative for out chrome trim peices on the taillights??? http://www.sprayonchrome.com/index2.html Good for PVC, Nylon, plastic, wood, aluminum, copper...... etc, etc. http://www.sprayonchrome.com/ads3.html

Hell no!! Then I'd never get the parts I need, at the price I pay now. But it would make for a nice down payment on something.....