hotsho111

Cool, thanks for the suggestion. Thanks again for the help too. One electrical thing on it's way to be sorted and then on to the next thing haha

Thinking it might be a contact issue I went back out and decided to push and pull the hazard switch a bunch of times and try again and got the signals working. The voltage is 11.5v now but it's enough for it to work. The rear left still isn't working, which was what I noted at the start so I need to take a look at the turn signal switch but hopefully that will resolve that issue. I at least know what to do there. Once that is done I might be back with a new thread to get the horn working

After a shipping snafu courtesy of UPS finally got the charger in I charged the battery overnight and the battery is sitting at 12.9v right now but still no luck on the turn signals working. The voltage at the turn signal relay is a little higher now. Fluctuating between 10.75-11v but that's as high as it's getting. I'm testing this by turning the key to the ON position but not starting the car. I was able to test the signals before like this before they randomly died while I was testing them Could that be a result of a bad contact? I haven't checked the power level at the flashers yet but the flashers work fine

Hey, I have a 1973 240z and I have what I believe is the original key. I wanted to get a replacement made and the code on the key is just a 4 digit number (5XXX) with no prefix. I thought the keys generally had a prefix for the type of cut? The key does work on everything (ignition, both doors, glove box, and trunk) I took a look and there is no glove box code sticker. I attached a picture of the key (with a repro blank I was hoping to use) to show the style (and edited it a bit to remove the last 3 code digits and some of the key length) Any idea what might be up? The key is super worn so I was hoping to avoid having a duplicate made directly from the key

Yeah, I did a bunch of reading of the wiring diagrams since I checked the first time and was planning on double checking at the column before diving in, but it was easy to check again at the connector before diving in Awesome, thanks. I was looking at getting new leads for my set anyway and having alligator clips would be great I'll circle back once the new charger comes in and I can move on to the next thing haha Thanks again for the help everyone. I appreciate it

@SteveJ unfortunately not at the moment I do have some other news though, after reading over the wiring diagrams I was checking for voltage on the wrong pin on the flasher relay connector 🤦‍♂️ (for anyone who stumbles across this, check the green wire). Checking the voltage properly this time it's getting 10.5 volts (and basically none when the hazards are on). It looks like the low battery might be the culprit there. I only have a 750mA charger at the moment but have a 4amp charger on the way and can get that hooked up and circle back

Thanks guys. Thanks @SteveJ, this instructions are perfect Taking a look at this now, and to the earlier question, I started the car (to check something) and after turning it off and waiting a minute the battery was at 12.45 volts

Thanks. I only got a few millivolts of power at the signal flasher when I checked it.

I'll check these things and get back tomorrow. Does power to the turn signals run through the hazard on 73s? I'm not sure if the turn signals and hazards are connected on a 73? Ie, could a hazard issue be causing a turn signal problem? I've been looking at a handful of wiring diagrams but I'm not 100% sure I have continuity from the switch but no power so I want to try and work backwards on where the flasher relay should be getting power from

I can try and check that tomorrow. I checked the battery with it off and it was a little over 12V Thanks, I have a feeling it's probably contact related so that was my plan. I tried replacing the fuse first but that didn't change it I'm at least getting a good understanding of the wiring in the car haha

Thanks guys. The battery is fairly new (from February of 2022) so I wasn't thinking it was related to that. Would the flashers still work in the case? I only have a small .75amp charger but I have another charger (4amp) that should be in soon and I can hook that up

Hey, I just picked up a 1973 240Z and after taking it out on it's first drive I noticed the turn signals didn't appear to work. After leaving the car parked in the sun for an hour or so when I drove home they were working again After I got home I was testing all the lights and noticed the left rear turn signal wasn't working. The hazards worked as well (all 4 corners). I couldn't check the brake lights at the time At some point I was testing the turn signals with the lights on and the turn signals flashed slower and then stopped altogether. The hazards still work. I tested the turn signal flasher relay by hooking it up directly to the battery and after some fiddling did get it to start clicking. I have continuity at the flasher relay connection when the turn signal switches on (in both directions) but I'm only getting a few mV of power. While fiddling with the turn signal stock and the relay connector a few times the door ajar buzzer would randomly start or stop working. I think I got the relay to click once or twice while fiddling with all of this but I couldn't confirm on the dash before it stopped again. I was planning on taking the switch apart to check the rear turn signal but is it possible I have a cold solder joint or something like that which is causing the relay to not get power? Any thing else to check or does it sound like I'm heading in the right direction? ETA: The horn also hasn't worked since I've had the vehicle although the previous owner's salesman said he thought it worked

Rotating the seat belt harness around and adjusting the bracket a bit it fits with the seat all the way back. I'm not in love with it but I at least have something that works. The seat belt rubs against the rear storage lip a bit more than I'd like, so I'm still thinking about some alternate solutions, but I've at least got something working for now

Thank you! Mine look very similar so I might just need a spacer to make it work. I have some other good news on the seat rail too I think because the retractor was blocking it a ton of gunk had built up so it seemed like the rail couldn't go back all the way. After using some persuasion and greasing it up I can get the rails to travel the full length now. With the retractor removed and the seat reinstalled I get much more reasonable leg room. I might try and adjust the pedals to be a little further back but it's much better than it was. I just need to figure out a solution for the seatbelt and i should be good to go

@SteveJ do you have pictures of how your retractor is attached? The retractor on those roadster belts (from the pictures at least) look very similar to what I've got and I can't mount that on the roof mount unless it's rotated a lot which seems bad

Ya, I'll probably need to do that for the belts. Any thoughts on the seat rails? It looks like the OEM rails, I just wonder if the brackets have been shifted forward a bit so the farthest back stop is now a bit too far forward for someone tall

Managed to get the seat out today. I've added some pictures of the floor and the seat bottom. I took a look at the rails and don't see a convenient way to shift them so I can get more leg room. The seat belt retainer is also a bit too bulky to be mounted on the pillar Any ideas?

Had some stuff pop up today but I'll get to the seats soon and I'll update the thread once I get a chance to do that

I've been in a 71 240z and had plenty of leg room. I think because the seat won't slide all the way back is what's causing the problem

Thanks. I'm hoping I can get the seat out soon and I'll look into what options I have there and if I can relocate the belts to the roof.

On a related note, would it work to see if the floor mount will attach to the top mount (assuming the belt length isn't too long)? I'm not sure if it's designed to handle that load though Steve, would the roadster seatbelt install the retractor directly to the top mount or is it just a less bulky unit? ETA: I saw an old thread where you mentioned you installed them directly to the top mount. I'll see if I can do that with the current setup I've got

Thanks for the responses. I'm probably gonna take out the seat sometime this weekend and can get pictures of the floor setup and see what's there. If I can't make it work I'll look into some alternative belt options

Thanks, I've added a picture of the top mount. I might just need to take the seat out and see what kind of options I've got The previous owner said the floors were replaced and I noticed the right of the seat part of the frame is rubbing against the transmission tunnel so I kind of want to inspect the seat setup anyway ETA: I might try and remove the seat this weekend and if I do I'll post some more pictures of the area

Hey, I just picked up a 1973 240z and as a 6'3 person with long legs I was hoping there was a way to get the seat slid back a bit further. It looks like there are two things in the way though: With the seat slid as far back as it can the back is up against the lower seat belt retractor. The other is looking at the seat rails there are two additional notches the seat could lock into further back but it looks like it's hitting a stop in the rail. I've attached a picture the setup with the seat adjusted as far back as I can get it. There appears to be another 2-3 inches of legroom I could get which would be perfect if I could relocate the seat belt retractor back a few inches and let the seat slide back a bit further on the rails I tried searching and couldn't find one, but does anyone know if there's an offset bracket available to move the retractor a bit further back? I'm hopeful I might be able to just reposition the seat on the rails and resolve that half I drove a 71 that had a 3 point setup and had plenty of leg room so I'm hopeful I can make something work. The retractor might not have been mounted on the floor in that one though. I can't remember