iscnetwork

I am truly not sure if I ever started the car not in it or seat belt unhooked. I only drove the car 3 months before its 2 yr. storage. I was going to test this option tonight if I can get to the garage. I know one thing if it works you might hear the scream all the way to you there!

Thanks for the tread & pictures everyone.

yuk. Now if I can find the emergency button. If I get any time tonight I am going to remove the MSD, a screw driver should then at least start the car with ignition turned on, regardless of all of this goo.

I am working backward from the yellow wire that originally activated the aftermarket relay to fire the solenoid. The interlock-relay coil shows 40 ohms, contacts are not fried. Wiring plug to it is fine. So now according to the wiring diagram the blue & blk/red wire from the ignition-interlock-unit power the coil to activate this interlock-relay. The needle in the haystack is starting to look easy to find. Going to pick up ignition switch so I can remove the MSD. I am hoping the ignition-interlock-unit is actually a relay so I can test it too.

Car turns over just fine with a screw driver from battery to solenoid. I haven't had the chance to look at the relay discussed above yet and may not get one today either. My yellow wire that goes to that relay or the solenoid is dead. I probably will re-enable the 'non-factory' relay. I do not like high amps in the ignition switch either. Thanks very much for the 'wiring' pic & diagram. I am trying to be real cautious so I don't fix one thing and then fry something else.

I'm working on 2 things at once as I find parts bad and waiting on new ones. I am removing the MSD & getting power to the solenoid. Thanks for the pictures of the coil & resistor. My wiring there was butchered for the MSD. IF you are looking down at the resistor are the 2 right wires the ones connected to the coil?

Yes I am making progress with my Z. Thanks so much for the "car manual's link" I am guessing I have whole lot of reading ahead. Thanks for the warning about 75 & 76. I notice the dual fuseable link boxes next to each other right off the bat since I was inside of my box to make sure the links were good. I found a mistake on the wiring diagram here (at least on my car in the areas that look 'factory') The red/white wire going to the resistor is black/white same as the trunk line. If you can get me a picture of your '75's coil / resistor area that would be great! I greatly appreciate everyone's helps. [I would have never expected to park a car and it all goes haywire.]

Thank you , thank you! Does "Z club" have a "Parts manual" up somewhere? I didn't find on the search. I would love to know what every one of these parts are and do for future diags. That is a whole lot of 'un-tapping' I will not need to do.

Update... Took out ignition switch, continuity between battery connection and everything BUT resistor work. (So I now know why the MSD. This wire is disconnected when a MSD is installed.) So I have new switch ordered. I still have no juice to the solenoid (yellow wire). Where is the Interlock Relay located? and what does it look like? [Guessing that its connections are dirty or relay is bad.] Thanks to everyone.

The picture above where the wiring harness was cut and taped together, could someone let me know what was on the end of that originally and where it when? thanks.

Could someone send me a picture of the Coil & resistor wiring? (I have the wiring diagram already.) I can't see that anything was cut away from the harnesses so I am guessing the wires from coil went directly to the coil. thanks.

Thanks for the fuel diagram. But I am not to past the "no juice to coil" stage.

Thanks, I think I found it. I will have to dismantle a lot of stuff even to see if the wires are still there. What I need is a 280z next to mine so I could see what is missing or what was butchered. I have 0 problems putting back to stock. [Especially in times like now.] thanks for the pic.

Got it. Any pictures of what it looks like by chance? You may be right on the MSD being bad. It feeds the coil wires. Thanks for you help, I am out of my league here.

No voltage on it when I attempt to crank the engine. I don't know if the original ignition module is even there. Don't know what it looks like. I presume PO is a derogatory remark?

Start as far away from master cylinder and work to shortest on bleeding. I use the method described in my 1963 service manual: put a rubber hose on the bleed screw into a bottle with a little brake fluid. Open bleed screw, pump the brakes a few times till the fluid has no bubbles in it. Leave pedal all the way to the floor, tighten bleed screw. Repeat 3 more cylinders. Keep master full, if you run it out, start all over.

I made sure the lights, turn signal, etc. work with key on/off as these all should. For sure the relay is aftermarket "Made in China". It had 4 wires, 1 yellow 18 gauge, 2 red 10/12 gauge one to battery connection on starter and one to the solenoid, 1 ground. 1 Empty pin. 1 Ground. Wiring harness that runs along the side of the engine goes to a plug (pic #1) then close to the plug the oil sensor wire comes out of the wrap, up about 6" the yellow 18 gauge wire comes out. To save a bunch of writing is the Yellow wire that the end fell off the original solenoid wire (#2)? It is about 18 gauge yellow colored. IF so I can fix this part of the mess. That ball of tape in #3 I think was a plug that was cut off for the MSD ignition. So why I have no voltage at the coil is still a mystery. I haven't had the time to go thru the manuals given to me above.

Best place to find? Looking at ebay, I have a clue which one. Has anyone scanned one here? Lights work. Horn is disconnected (previous owner put on a racing steeling wheel).

Good, I can remove the relay then. I was planning to dig it out and see if anything else but the solenoid was going thru it to "wherever". I have used a VOM as I go. I test the links just to make sure they were not fried. I had an American one once look good, dead as a door nail.

I was hoping with key on, it would start. My 240z would. I was trying to do anything to get the car out of the cramped garage so I could actually work on it. It needed the brakes adjusted and a leaking fuel pump replaced with I parked it.

+ Battery terminal on starter to solenoid connection. (bypassing the relay).

Fuseable links not that dirty, cleaned anyway they have continuity. Still no good. Solenoid to relay wire was not that dirty, cleaned anyway. I will attempt to pull that relay out tomorrow and make sure of its connections. Pulling out ignition switch tomorrow after work if time allows. Is the picture below valid for my 1975 I found in another thread? I haven't seen it yet, where is the main ground for all stuff under they hood located? I want to make sure it is cleaned too. (This Z has 5 times more wiring than my 240 did it seems.) Thanks.

I will get back to you. I will have to dig out a whole lot of car parts to even get a floor jack in there to get the right side away from the wall.

There is a red wire going from the battery post on the starter to a relay. That relay has the other red wire going to the solenoid. I am laying on the fender against the wall from the front so no room to see or work on anything. I forgot all about this it has been MSD ignitioned at some time ago. But I didn't think that would have anything to do with the coil not running or fuel pump. What could I do just to get this thing to run and out of the garage where I have room to work on this car?

With a screw driver the engine turns over just fine.