chaseincats

Update on this. I tried a friends' 280zx iron cross wheels yesterday which do not shake on his car but did shake on mine. The only difference is I used my lugs which have a straight shaft where as his have a beveled edge ("acorn" lug nuts) which might hold the wheels on better. Any thoughts?

Good to know - I'll give it a shot thanks all!

Sorry I missed that - It's OEM wiring

Sorry, when you said owners manual, I was thinking about the car's harness capability. Disregard Looks like the mystery has been solved!

These speakers showed up at my place the other day so if the wattage was the problem, this should fix it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9T0RJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Just out of curiosity, why would lower wattage speakers in this car fail?

I was able to find the model number - the head unit is a Pioneer DEH-6300UB

If I did, I don't recall doing it. The car did come with a big stupid sound system/amp which I promptly removed. It's possible the PO did something to get that thing to work but I believe I removed all of it.

Not sure where the black wire is goes to in these cars but its from the stock harness As far as I know there isn't a separate amp since these go through the stock harness to the radio

Honestly I'm not sure since the head unit came with the car. I'll grab the model number off the unit tonight and see if I can find the manual.

The head units manual?

The speakers keep blowing every year or two. Regarding the volume it really isn't very loud, just loud enough so I can hear them while on the freeway. I took them out yesterday and the blown one had some rubber insulation or something dangling (it looked kind of like like a rubber band that fit between the cone and magnet). For the record, these were the speakers that I'd bought twice and blown twice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I got some JBLs this time so we'll see I guess

Yep, no DC voltage on the multimeter and a dim bulb on the test light when the clip was connected to the body. I probed the power wire, not the ground.

Wow this makes sense. Basically my speakers kept blowing out after about a year so I thought it was because of the beating they take being bolted directly to the metal of the car so I insulated one with a rubber grommet between the speaker metal and bolt which saved one side but not the other. So you're telling me that my testlight lighting up when I touched the power wire to the speaker with music playing is bad and can blow speakers even at a low volume?

That does and since I had the volume at a mid level, the bulb being half-lit makes sense then. Thanks EDIT: Why wouldn't setting the multimeter to DC work though? Doesn't the car run off of DC power?

Hi guys, I just noticed when replacing my speakers that the voltage going to the speakers themselves is very low. I used a test light and the light that shines from the left and right speaker power wires is very dim. I tried using a multimeter for an exact reading but I must not be doing something wrong because it's reading basically 0. Is the speaker voltage stepped down from 12v or are they supposed to be getting a full 12v?

got it - responding now

$20 shipping included work? If it does shoot me a PM and we can take it from there.

I have one if you're interested. I see that you're in OKC, I'm in Dallas so I can ship it to you or you can drive down since it's pretty close.

Hi all - This is the product of a few different EFI tuning/tricks threads we've been going through as a forum. I always enjoyed how quickly the car starts up in the winter with the cold start valve so I came up with a way to manually trigger the csv which (pretty much) instantly starts the car regardless of the weather. I created a youtube video for the community here cheers, chase

we did, ya - got the timing light out

Who knows at this point - at least it's running though

Final update: We probably fried the TIU because it no longer sent spark timed properly and some cylinders never got spark after the fact (we tried flipping plugs, wires, etc but the box simply wasn't telling the coil to fire for cylinder 5 at least. We swapped the car to a 280zx matchbox distributor and it started right up. All that to say, do not bypass the ballast resistor.

So while driving, if the fan was directly connected to the engine instead of through a clutch for example, cooling performance wouldn't really change all that much?

Just gave it a shot and when its cold I can spin it about a quarter turn which seems pretty good. That said, when it's warm I'm able to spin it considerably more than that, shouldn't the opposite be true because it's supposed to grip harder to move more air when warm?

That's the strange part, the most air the fan ever blows is when the car is first starting