CRS

finally put the 280z on jack stands for the swap now that the trans and differential have been sealed with new gaskets, seals and O-rings. I noticed that the 4 speed has 3 electrical connectors were the 5 speed only has one? I assume backup lights, maybe reverse lockout, not sure the other. Since I only have one connector on the 5 speed what should be done with the others? Thanks.

thanks for checking. if that's the case I may replace the brass. looks to be easy enough. just need to line the hole up for the oil supply.

thanks for checking. if that's the case I may replace the brass. looks to be easy enough. just need to line the hole up for the oil supply.

Thanks. The one from the link doesn't match the style I have. I have 2 holes were this one only has one. The spiral groove seems to be the same. I rotated and rocked the bearings and they seem to be in good shape. Will probably just stay with them. I may just install the new seals, o-rings, etc and see how it goes. I plan on installing a new clutch kit, slave cylinder, hose and flywheel while there.

Right, had to go through the opening in the case to drive the pin out. I think I will just leave the reverse gear as is, not worth the effort. I think I found the correct brass for the tail shaft housing. It just looks worn, can't recall how much play. I'll look at the counter shaft bearing. I recall the shim at the front of the housing. It fell down once I pulled the cover off.

Success. Had to hit the pin several times to break the tapper. Though it might break but it came out. Now I can replace the o-ring on the rod and the seal the rod slides into. I think this was the worse leak in the top.

Right, I had something under it yesterday but I just didn't hit the pin hard enough. Hopefully this will keep the arm from bending.

Thanks. That makes sense. It will just need more force when I remove. I was worried about breaking it the first time.

Hello. Thanks, I found the o-ring parts on a Nissan site. Yes a very common leak on these trans. @munters is there a ball and spring on the fork in the picture? I know the other selector rods have them. This looks like a pin with threads to hold it in place.

Opened the trans today. Oil gutter still in tact. Small amount of metal on the magnetic. Looks like it's from the reverse gear. Also looks like the tail housing brass is worn. See pics. Also how do you remove the pin that hold the selector fork on? I removed the nut and washers but the pin won't move. Even tried a bit of force. Any suggestions?

Thanks. Good to know. Right now the trans shifts into the 5 forward and reverse. If it doesn't after I open I'll know why.

I'll start the teardown later this week and post my findings. I'll also post the rotation of the main nut; left or right handed thread. Hopefully just the seals/o-rings need to be replaced. I didn't hear any noise or feel any hard spots when turning by hand. Of course this is low revs compared to the engine output. Thanks again.

Thanks Dave for the feedback. I saw a video of a broken oil gutter and hopefully mine is in tact. I don't think this trans has been taken apart. I do have the leaks by the shifter you mentioned. I've seen lots for the front and rear seals as well as the gasket in the middle. Have also seen the master rebuild with bearings and seals. Not sure if I've seen the 3 IIRC ones you mention. Do have a recommendation on which ones to buy?

Hello all, Getting ready to take the plunge and swap the 4 speed trans and diff from an '83 280zx non-turbo to my '75 280z. From everything I've read this is the desirable swap for the stock 280z. Better than the late 70's 5 speed setup. Setup was removed from a running car with 100k+ miles. Differential is the R200 with 3.90 ratio. Any things I should watch out for with the swap? I plan on changing seals in the trans and diff before installation. Should I completely rebuild the trans while out of the car, eg syncros or gears? For the trans tear down is the process straight forward any unusual things to be careful with? I have rebuilt many engines, trans both manual and auto for GM's (and other domestics) but this will be my first import. Thanks!