mdbrandy

Keep us posted on the rechrome stuff. I suspect everyone has some chrome they'd like to be better, even if they can't justify big bucks to do it. :cross-eye . On the vents, If I can find the original type, then great - I'll use them. Otherwise, there won't be too much choice but to use the new type, unless you go into production :classic: . If you figure out how to cast some of this stuff, that'd be really cool. As you say, we all have some plastic piece that's broken. I just paid about $150 for a new heater control panel and map light stuff from Chloe because there were cracks in both of them. Wouldn't want to try to cast the heater panel, but the map light surround wouldn't have been too hard. The map light stuff is still available, and not very expensive, so don't need that specific piece now, but soon they won't be available, and they'll still crack...

I've seen those on e-bay, and wondered if they are comparable to the ones you can get through MSA or Victoria British. Let us know.

Well Chris, as always, you're a font of research! I think, from what I can tell, my car was originally equipped with the hand throttle. It was hooked up and working when the PO got the car 13 years or so ago. From what I understand, SOME of the early US cars had them. This appears to be one of them. I'd like to at least get the pieces back in place, even if I leave it disconnected from the pedal itself :classic: . You're right, that overseas or Chloe will probably be my best bet, but I'll see. A guy on e-bay says he has a choke/throttle assembly that he's going to list, but he hasn't done it yet. I don't know what it will include. I'll have to think about the chrome stuff now. I don't know much about rechroming, and didn't think about the quality levels of new vs. rechrome. Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. I have the left original air duct with the metal rings. It's edges are a bit chewed up, though. The right one is gone. I have procured brand new NOS ducts of the new versions through Chloe alread, in case I can't get the old ones (which looks like the case). It appears as though no modifications will be required - the new style seems to be designed to fit into the original sheet metal holes. I'll just keep looking for the old ones, and use the new ones if I can't find any. You don't give me much hope, though .

That's exactly what I've been watching, but I didn't know if there was any real use for it. My 240 has it's original block and E31 head, so I don't have much use for anything else there, but you never know for a future build on something else...

You can get reproduction boxes. I don't know how they compare to the originals. I have my originals in a box downstairs, but they're cracked. If I get a chance, I can take a picture, maybe tomorrow.

Thanks for that link - I should have included it. On the overriders, yes, they are the small vertical ones. Midwest Z has some rechromable ones that Chloe can get me, but here in the cornfields of IL, finding rechroming/plating services tend to be a little hard, so I'd rather get some in good shape to begin with. I gather I can still get brand new ones from Japan for $75 each .

Looking for: Hand Throttle knob and cable (I have the lever assembly itself). Early engine-bay fresh air vents (upper corners of radiator support - plastic). Very early ones had metal brackets at each end that trapped the ends against the rad support and inner fender. Later ones are different, with the ends fitting INTO the holes in the rad support and fender. Looking for the early ones only. Rear bumper overriders with chrome in good shape. Rubber doesn't matter - I can replace it. Need to be the early overriders (up to 6/72?) that are apparently thinner than the later ones. If you've got any of those things that you don't need, I'd love to hear from you! Thanks.

Excellent! thanks for the hand-throttle picture. Now all I have to do is find one of those knobs. Any ideas there?

No opinions, huh?

Chris, Here's one of the pics you sent me of your toolbox tab and knob.

I have the hand throttle. The stupid PO removed the cable, and lost the plastic handle, but the actual lever is still there. Attached is a pic of what I had when I bought it. The second lever knob is actually a second choke knob that the PO had on the lever. BTW, anyone know what picture is on the knob that the hand throttle would use? Thanks.

Anybody know anything about an N33 cylinder head, and what it might be good for? (specifically 11041-N3302). Thanks.

Look up kmack on this site. He builds them. He has a web site talking about his car and the rotisserie: kmack

Macpherson is the type of suspension - i.e., our cars have "Macpherson strut suspension". (Actually, I think they are somewhat different than a true Macpherson strut, but we call them that). You would have to give the brand of cartridge to allow us to compare anything with the "Tokico" brand cartridges. Your store is probably quoting you for generic type stuff like "Monroe" or "Gabriel" or something. Not performance cartridges. My 2cents.

Victoria British sells the Normal Tokico Gas catridge for $74.95 each in their newest catalog. The Adjustible Illimina's are $145 each.

Ah, but the key is, that on my beast, there was no "unbolt and replace" for much of the work. Floor pans, rockers, etc., with quite a bit of custom patching. I would have paid the $$, but no body wanted it! They could make more unbolting other people's fenders. I am finding out that places where a "restoration shop" fixed it up 12 or so years ago, they did a really poor job in areas that weren't just cut off and replace - front and rear of the rockers, etc. I may be better off doing it myself anyway . Thanks.

Make sure you can find a body shop to do the work before you make your plans. Here in the cornfields of Illinois, none of the 10 bodyshops I talked to wanted much to do with my car. They are insurance, replacement shops. Two places said that they might be interested, but they were too busy now, and my job would take a backseat to more lucrative insurance work (at least they were honest!). They told me to come back in six months and they'd see where they were. Thus, my purchase of a welder and practicing to do my own work . So far so good, but I've got a lot of work to do...

Answered some of my own question - they're in Jasper, IN! :stupid: About 200 miles Southeast of me. Or they appear to have a branch in Chicago, too. They look like a REALLY big operation, though, that doesn't necessarily specialize in any specific type of engine. Who's had experience with them.... ? Thanks.

Being quite close to Indiana myself, where is "Jasper Engines?" When I get to the engine, I'll be looking for someone that knows L series engines... Thanks.

Did you try asking the people at Banzai?

If you have an early type I '71 240Z, then they would be the brackets for the toolbox knobs for the plastic toolbox lids that go behind both seats.

Interesting. I wonder why they say it doesn't work? I'll have to investigate the circuit when I get into it. Are you sure the tach in your car was original? Thanks.

Great! I take it that you like the results? I ask mainly since I picked up a 1980 280ZX distributor, coil, and E12-80 ignition module for $71, and I was hoping it would be a good choice. From what I have read, it sounded like it was. Essentially just a drop-in ignition system-wise? The Zgarage article indicates that you can't use the 240Z tach, and have to go with a 280Z tach, but since I have a 280Z parts car sitting in my garage :classic: , that seemed not to be a problem either. Anyway, any tricks or things I might not know about beyond the Zgarage article would be appreciated. Thanks.

Anyone have experience dropping a 280ZX distributor with the E12-80 ignition module into a 240Z? Zgarage tells how to do it, and says it's a good swap, but I was wondering if anyone on the list has one... Thanks.

Thanks, I can't think of any reason why either, but there might be something. I'm picking up an NOS crossmember on e-bay for $30, so if it isn't right, maybe I can find someone with a 280 that wants it. It LOOKS right, but there may be some suspension point mounting differences or maybe the rack mounts differently. Anyway, not much invested if it doesn't work out. Mine is intact, but very rusty and has some dents in the bottom from inappropriate jacking or hitting road hazards. Thanks.