MrChefur

Cold start valve: I couldn't figure out how to plug the fuel line to it, so I swapped it with the cold start valve from my other intake as well as disconnecting the connector. I suppose they both could be bad, however. Temp sensor: Yes, I checked it with the temp chart at the ECU connector and it checked out fine. Injectors: I will do that today. I tried yesterday with a rusty old pipe but it was too big to fit haha. Probably shouldn't try troubleshooting at 10pm anyways Air filter: brand new, put it in right before the first start up. Stock air filter box and rubber boots as well. Vac lines/PCV: I checked all of them and they look to have been replaced shortly before I got the car, with the exception of the PCV -> crankcase hose. It's quite old but doesn't seem to leak. I can't seem to find any hoses that fit it either, seeing as one end is larger than the other. I'll go through all the hoses again today to make sure. I took a video of it running today, hopefully this will help a little:

I'll try these and get back to you today. Thanks I bought the rebuilt engine off of a family friend who was going to use it to restore his Z, but decided to do a swap instead. The engine out of my car has a spun main bearing and it worked out to be cheaper to buy his already-rebuilt engine than it was to have mine done. He had it rebuilt by a shop (not himself) and it was very well done from what I and my father can tell. I don't know very much about rebuilding, so if you need more details I'd be happy to help however I can.

Howdy everyone, I've got a rebuilt L28 I just got running in my 78 280z. I'm having issues with my idle. It sits at about 1100rpm and runs very rich, plugs had black soot all over the tips after about 15 minutes of idling. It also runs very poorly at lower RPMs. Here's what I've done so far: Vacuum check by taking off oil cap with engine running. Engine died, which I've read means I have decent vacuum? Throttle position sensor: I've got two of them, one on the car and one spare. Adjusting them either way increases and decreases idle, but disconnecting the cable makes no difference. Swapping one for the other makes no difference, despite one being in far better visual condition than the other. Cold start valve: disconnecting makes no difference AFM: disconnecting makes RPMs bounce dramatically EFI Bible: I tested resistance, continuity, volts, etc for every spec the EFI bible gives and all checked out within specs. Thermotime switch and water temp sensor: I swapped the cables between the two with no effect which worries me. They both meet the resistance specs in the EFI bible though, what gives? Thanks everybody. Let me know if there's something I've missed.