tzagi1

Update: Did the flush, first back flushed it (using the $4 kit) bypassing the heater core (brand new), flushed until water runs clear, drain radiator, refill with a 50/50 mixture of muriatic acid and water total 1 gallon. Start up till warmed up, cool then drain, what came out is darker than coke! completry black., keep back flushing till water runs clear, now refill with a mixture of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid. I left the cap off and started, immediately water started to pour out, at that point I installed a rad pressure tester, immediately the pressure rose fast...so I shut her off. Conclusions: Its either I have a completely clogged radiator, yes it's new but strangest thing have happened OR I have a blown head gasket. I think I'll start with the radiator...sounds easier.

While the flushing is certainly a good idea,,,,its not in line with the symptom, it does not explain why it requires 2000 rpm to have flow in the system nor the restriction. Cap, that's what it acts like...except everything is new and no rags present. I'm thinking to fill it with vinegar or I might have a flush kit from the 90's...that was some strong stuff..

When I got to it and drained the system out came about 2 quarts of rusty water...I would say that the vast majority has evaporated over the years. even with rust in the jackets it doesn't explain the flow issue.

Background: the car has been driving great back in the mid to late 90's, been parked in a dry enclosed space (socal) from 97-8 till now.since it was pulled out of storage (last year) the radiator (aluminium job, 3 row, much bigger then stock) been replaced, water pump been replaced, new thermostat been replaced.all hoses been replaced.What can go wrong?well.... it acted as if the thermostat(180f) will not open, the gauge pegs and the bottom hose is cold, replace thermostat..same thing, cut up the old thermostat(as in remove the wax pellet) and try again, much better but now it heats at streetlights, cools off while driving, remove the 2 12 inch electric fans and reinstall the mechanical. retest, but now it's after 4pm (the sun is setting and the temp dropped by 10 degrees)so far could not get the gauge to go over half.....will be trying again tomorrow, still noticed a big difference in temp between the upper and lower hoses.Ideas? Update, took the car for a "long" (20 miles drive aprox) once warmed up the gauge stayed at half while driving HOWEVER it climbs quickly at every red light, if I am to raise the rpm over 2000 while standing it brings the needle back down. if I get the car to speed and then coast at idle...same thing, the needle climbs, I'm suspecting that its not air flow but rather water flow as if there is a restriction in the system, still have a boiling hot upper hose and a luke warm bottom hose.

Meanwhile at the bat cave....I replaced the muffler, put on a tip that extends 6 inches behind the body, fixed an exhaust leak between the muffler and the pipe and the smell is almost gone, now I can smell it but only under hard acceleration....back to the drawing board. (possibly more exhaust leaks?)

Cap... These laws are for insurance companies , these are guidelines when the insurance company must report for a salvage title. nothing to do with private person and their personal property. 1.  “Rebuilt vehicle” means a vehicle:(a) That is a salvage vehicle Is the car a salvage vehicle? .lets look up the legal definition: “Salvage vehicle” means a motor vehicle that at any time has been declared a total loss vehicle, flood-damaged vehicle, non-repairable vehicle or had “salvage” or a similar word or designation placed on any title issued for the vehicle. ... Vehicles with less than 65 percent damage are not considered salvage vehicles. Do you as an owner declare your vehicle a total loss? do you determine if it has more or less then 65% damage? no, the insurance adjuster does.

Don't play around around with the hydraulics...it's not worth it Just one meeting with a telephone pole will cost you 10 times of replacing every component in the system, or worst... if you have to replace the front calipers might as well upgrade to the toyotas(4 piston), rebuilds are $30 at pepboys, and they will take yours as cores. win win.

Quote: Legally, it's rolling around on an old VIN that needs to be approved by your local DMV. Dear mike, you do speak with much authority, did you call you local dmv and ask? perhaps you should. Call the main DMV and tell them I'm planning to do xyz, do I need to do anything else? its that simple. Over the last 30 years I have done DOZENS and DOZENS of swaps, Jeep on a toyota frame, Isuzu amigo on a toyota frame (don't believe me? I got pics) Gassers to diesels, diesels to gassers....non is a problem, before any project I would pick up the phone to dmv or just drop by the local lab and speak to them, explain what I'm doing, all I ever got was usefull information on how to do it properly and in accordance with the law. I never heard the term "you can't do that" ever!

As long as the body vin is not reported stolen...87mj has NOTHING to be concerned with.

As A matter of fact I have 2....and I know where you are trying o spin it but its not going to work, a passport is a document issued by a government, same government also issued laws to prevent the alteration of the document. however a vin is not issued by a government and the law is clear, it can be altered for purposes of repair. read above.

Quote: it's priceless, I would repair it to maintain the matching serial numbers. Since the accident was caused by someone else, they will be paying the bill On whose dime? the "clandestin " day laborer with no insurance that hit you? not to mention minimum state insurance covers up to $30k in physical damage, try to recover a $100k loss. Quote:A house typically sits on land, which are shown as two different entities on your deed Incorrect, the only time there are 2 "titles" is when you purchase a mobile with the land, you get a deed for the land and a title for the mobile. A purchase of stick built comes with a deed only for both. I'm done making arguments here. I'm tired.

1. yes you do...seen plenty of range rovers selling for well less then a 1000 BP because they failed mot for rust. 2. Insurance? what if one does not have comprehensive? even if one did, would the insurance company pay the full value of a irreplaceable car? the other parties insurance? most only have up to $30k in property damage, mute point. you will never ever recover the value of your classic car by insurance. Quote: The cars id is the chassis. NO way of changing that. By design the body/chassis is one, as a monocoque. Its the one part you cant change or replace. How is that different then a body on frame design? are you suggesting that it's allowed to swap bodies and frames and retain the vin however if the body and frame are one piece you cannot? does that makes any sense? Quote:The house argument just doesn't make sense as the cars a Monocoque, if it was separate chassis(land) and body(house), you could swap the house. Once again, why should a monocoque be treated any differently than a body on frame design? what makes a car a car? the body? the frame? both? ether? perhaps it's nether.

There are more then a few reasons, accidents, rust ect. , but for starters, you have to understand that we DON'T live under MOT law, we are not required to dispose(junk) of a vehicle that the government does not find roadworthy.. Imagine that you have a 69 Dodge charger 440 4 speed, a priceless classic. during your regular weekend drive some asswipe sideswipes you on the passenger side crushing the monocoque. the body shop is quoting you $30000 to repair it OR you can pick up another body for $10000(just arbitrary numbers to make a point).... What would you do? Don't get stuck on the "shell" thing it's just another car part no different then a hood, roof, trunk ect. Quote:" Its not the correct ID for that shell" And? how is that different from any other part of said car? does changing the engine makes a car "incorrect"? how about the doors? Who determines what is "correct" and why does that matter? A car is just a car, its an assembly for many metal and plastic components, it is given a unique serial number that is used by the government to establish OWNERSHIP no different then say... a house. When you buy a house you are given a deed....no different then a title to a car. the deed has the legal description of said property, it has a the coordinates of the location and a lot number as assigned to it by the state/county. Assume the you decide to demolish said house and build another instead on the lot, how does that affect the deed? You tore down that 1000sqf house and built a 2000 sqf instead (All legal with all necessary permits) does it change the possession status of said property? not at the least. Another case in point, Lets assume I have a 1975 Jeep cj5, the body is rusty so I order a new fiberglass or aluminium body, I swap in my vin tag, is that illegal? Next I decide that I need a frame so I order a new(aftermarket) frame for it...is that illegal? Next come the dana 60's 40 inch tires, the LS7....you get the picture. The jeep has ZERO original components! yet it is still a 1975 Jeep cj5 and I still have a title in my name. this is how it works, there is no single part that I cannot change or replace affecting the legal status of said jeep other then one: the vin tag.

Exactly, as long as the individual follows the rules and does not try to cover up anything, he has nothing to be afraid of. Furthermore, transferring the firewall vin (as in replacing the body and keeping(welding in) the old vin) is very common in the muscle car restoration community, no one raises an eyebrow over it. it can only become a problem if somebody misrepresents the sale(IE claiming the original body hasn't been replaced), which can happen I suppose...but that is just plain fraud no different from restamping a block to make a car number matching and lying about it.

Great.. we have a long list of forum threads discussing water pumps...all filled of personal opinions, non can be substantiated. I am sure I can provide a list of threads on the quality of tampons as well....is playtex better then the new fanangled reusable earth friendly hemp tampons? Food for thought.

The usual response in the face of defeat...you are right, ignore the facts, ignore the law, accept it if somebody tells you "you can't do that" with no legal basis whatsoever, however, I been there, I done that more then a few times, with no shame or legal fears (you don't even want to hear about what Frankensteins I have built) including a few cold war Russian made piles (registered as Jeeps) all I can tell you, if you play your cards right, and according to the law you have NOTHING TO BE AFRAID OF. period.

Xlnt, now we are getting somewhere. Lets quote the language of 18 U.S.C. § 511 (a)A person who— (1) knowingly removes, obliterates, tampers with, or alters an identification number for a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part; or (2) with intent to further the theft of a motor vehicle, knowingly removes, obliterates, tampers with, or alters a decal or device affixed to a motor vehicle pursuant to the Motor Vehicle Theft Prevention Act, shall be fined under this title, imprisoned not more than 5 years, or both. (b) (1) Subsection (a) of this section does not apply to a removal, obliteration, tampering, or alteration by a person specified in paragraph (2) of this subsection (unless such person knows that the vehicle or part involved is stolen). (2)The persons referred to in paragraph (1) of this subsection are— (A) a motor vehicle scrap processor or a motor vehicle demolisher who complies with applicable State law with respect to such vehicle or part; (B) a person who repairs such vehicle or part, if the removal, obliteration, tampering, or alteration is reasonably necessary for the repair; (C) a person who restores or replaces an identification number for such vehicle or part in accordance with applicable State law; and (D)a person who removes, obliterates, tampers with, or alters a decal or device affixed to a motor vehicle pursuant to the Motor Vehicle Theft Prevention Act, if that person is the owner of the motor vehicle, or is authorized to remove, obliterate, tamper with or alter the decal or device by— (i) the owner or his authorized agent; (ii) applicable State or local law; or (iii) regulations promulgated by the Attorney General to implement the Motor VehicleTheft Prevention Act. (c)As used in this section, the term— (1) “identification number” means a number or symbol that is inscribed or affixed for purposes of identification under chapter 301 and part C of subtitle VI of title 49; (2) “motor vehicle” has the meaning given that term in section 32101 of title 49; (3) “motor vehicle demolisher” means a person, including any motor vehicle dismantler or motor vehicle recycler, who is engaged in the business of reducing motor vehicles or motor vehicle parts to metallic scrap that is unsuitable for use as either a motor vehicle or a motor vehicle part; (4)“motor vehicle scrap processor” means a person— (A) who is engaged in the business of purchasing motor vehicles or motor vehicle parts for reduction to metallic scrap for recycling; (B) who, from a fixed location, uses machinery to process metallic scrap into prepared grades; and (C) whose principal product is metallic scrap for recycling; but such term does not include any activity of any such person relating to the recycling of a motor vehicle or a motor vehicle part as a used motor vehicle or a used motor vehiclepart. (d) For purposes of subsection (a) of this section, the term “tampers with” includes covering a program decal or device affixed to a motor vehicle pursuant to the Motor Vehicle Theft Prevention Act for the purpose of obstructing its visibility. I'll refer you to section B-2-B "a person who repairs such vehicle or part, if the removal, obliteration, tampering, or alteration is reasonably necessary for the repair" How about B-2-C..or B-2-D?? that one really takes the cake.. Ignorance of the law is not an excuse!, The law is clear without a shadow of a doubt, and I thank the legislators for having the brain/hindsight. Furthermore. Let us read the article carefully and try to understand the reason why was it written to begin with, IE, the spirit of the law, not the language. its to combat theft, nothing else. 18 U.S.C. § 2321 has nothing to do with this situation, it deals in trafficking stolen car parts.

The DOT is an agency to regulate manufacturers, please read section 556 and quote any language that is in opposition of my argument.

Well, if we are talking handling rpm what would be better?(for prolonged bearing life, less drag ect), a heavy cast iron impeller or a light steel impeller? I highly doubt the impeller material has anything to do with the "quality" of MGB pumps. or the fact of personal opinion of them, they are, and always been, much like their other products "cost effective". is the quality stelar? hmm...could be better, are you getting value for the money? without a doubt. If you have to replace a pump every (say) 10 years and it costs you under 20 bucks...it's the bargain of the century.

Nothing but old wife's tales and urban legends. I challenge any and all, provide a state law and or a federal law that prohibits it, provide one case law that ended in a conviction.....please I beg of you. Feel free to look high and low, fraud cases need not apply, not relevant. Ya'll can keep saying "you can't do that" till you are blue in the face, without legal proof it makes it nothing but irrelevant.

Very cute and useless article, however I do not read anything about prohibiting changing a car part, such as a body or frame.

All great as print on a computer screen, please provide case law to back up your argument.

There is no right or wrong, only if its legal or not. In my opinion it's wrong to transplant a chevy 350 into a z car...but Plenty have done it and its not illegal. The unibody argument does not hold water as well, on any modern pickup the vin is stamped on the cab and the frame, you can change either or both without any legal issues.

Cast ..steel..all depends on the expectations from the product, this one lasted for nearly 30 years, if it would have been cast would it have lasted for 40? 45? Anyone cares? would we be alive to replace it(again)?