tzagi1

The dealer does not understand his target audience. You replaced the sway bar bushings....great. why not to reuse the original hardware? why not use black bushings? why would you want to make the blue stand out like a sore thumb? Clearly its not about the money....Zero f$ck given. Clearly, the target buyer is: 1: have no idea what an "original" z car suppose to look like. 2. Rich enugh not to care.

All original? as in unrestored? I find that hard to believe. the lack of underhood pics is plainly suspicious.

Average early z, fortified with lots of 260 and 280 z parts. Notice door panels and arm rests, the dash is 72-74 I would doubt there is an original part left on it but....that is how it was back in the 80's and 90's Lets just call it...period correct.

Aftermarket from the 70s or 80, made by Cal customs (according to my recollection) super handy for burning your fingers on a 100F degree day.

There are still A LOT of factory parts available and not very expensive...the trick is to bring in the part number as most of the workers have no idea where is the cd rom containing the old phish data is, and even if they do, they are not that motivated to look for it, load it up ect. I needed the woodruff key for the front balancer, came in with the part number and left 5 minutes later with the key, $3.14 If I would have have asked for a woodroof key for a 78 280z..I would get the deer in the head light look and be told that its discontinued.

Gotham, any reason you don't or cannot fix it yourself? learning how to use a mig is easy, they can be had for cheap, sheet metal is cheap and besides that...all you need is a hammer and an angle grinder. Start by exposing good metal with a flapper or a fiber disc, next draw a pattern to cut and chop it using a metal cutting blade. trim cardboard to the size of your cut, transfer it to sheet metal. if it needs to be curved...that is where the hammer comes in, once you trim/form the sheet to the hole ...line it up and tack it in place, continue stitching it 1 inch at a time to minimise distortion, work on one side then switch to the other. finish cleaning the welds with a flap wheel to perfection..apply seam sealer where needed. Even a novice welder (that cares) will do a better job then any commercial body shop (that don't). I'll bet you can get it all done for an total expense of about $500...including buying the mig (ok, using shielded wire, no gas) grinder, assorted wheels and sheet metal...unless you score a killer deal on a used mig setup. It's really easy once you get the hang of it....it doesn't take long to get to "getting the hang of it".

Jeff, will you be making a vegas run?

I used jb weld....worked just fine.

If anyone looking for the rollers, almost any older jap and korean cars are a good donor. they come in round and square, both will work.

It could also be off a JDM imported motor, while the US got the flat tops and FI...other countries carried on with the SUs into the late 70's.

Search for "tarp grommets" at walmart's web site....6 for less then $3, they will need minor sanding but do work great.

A good way to destroy drivability..Even on mine with a 262 cam I got nothing under 2k and the power just starts a 4k, above that it comes alive but not the friendliest for taking off from street lights in a civil way., in other words...its a hooligans car.

Oh Jeffery...I hate to make judgments however I'll go on a limb and make an educated guess that most early z owners (given the age group) are not interested (or have time for) in "too much" social media. instagram shminstergram.. As carbs go...and I know I'll be criticized for my opinion, SU are fine however there is a design flaw, the jet tubes don't like to return home when the choke is released, causing the "operator" to open the hood and push them up manually. triples are good BUT are total overkill, the head will never flow what the carbs can provide, 2nd problem is initial cost and then...tuning cost (you got to buy 6 of everything) for that kind of money...I'll go FI first. A pair of DGVs in a perfectly good alternative. Perhaps they are not the best solution due to manifold design however....they are super reliable, xlnt power and economy, easily and super cheap to rebuild (I get the master kit including the power valve for $15 shipped). win win in my book. I been running them in over 30 years, only once I been stumped by funky idle, turned out there was a grain of sand blocking the air correction jet..

Takes one to know one...there is a certain "je ne se quoi" of the "early" times of motoring. I bought my first 240z in the late 80's.....and not tired of them yet. Next time you are in my neck of the wood.....come on down for a test drive. bring the misses along.

Dear Jeff, driving a z or any other vintage sports car is an acquired taste. while mine has power windows, door locks, AC ect however its no match for any modern form of transport, it rude, its crude, its too low, the suspension is too stiff, there is no power steering, the power is not street friendly (it explodes in at 4500 rpm and does not quit) On a positive note....unlike driving any other form of a modern transport you will have a hard time wiping that stupid grin off your face every time you (will) drive it.

What happens if we play a drinking game and take a shot every time big mike says "vibrant performance"?

I had a similar problem with my cummins when I replaced the injection pump, the key tends to move (pushed back) when the sprocket is inserted, the solution was using some retaining fluid (locktite) let it dry a bit and install sprocket, worked like a charm.

I . the key is available at any Nissan dealer for like $3, Tell them its for a 300zx 2. A new alum radiator(3 row) is like $125 delivered to you house, cheap insurance, a bad epoxy job will result is a head gasket job(or worst), not worth the risk.

Interesting...going by the (msa) pic its identical to the one I got from O'reilly's...except the price is over 4 times as much.

Today I had the very dubvirus "pleasure" of replacing the clutch master on the 71, The old one ( marked Nibco Japan and I believe it's the original, For a fact it wasn't replaced at least since the very early 90's )started leaking from the back. Picked one up from Oreillys and pulled the master out, compared the 2 and there is a significant length difference between the two.....the original is about 3/4 of an inch longer. So I need to swap the shafts.....but I got no snap ring pliers on hand, went to a local oil change shop and one of the techs graciously let me use his. Question is...is this a fluke or all the clutch masters sold today are like that?...wrong out of the box.

The turn sig flasher in on the steering column, the hazards flasher is above the pass side kick panel.

Hazzard/turn sig flasher

Normal, run a rod thru it and knock out the blockage, finish it off by spaying some carb cleaner/ compressed air.

I'm sorry but that is incorrect, very based on my experience today shoving the garden hose into different orifices (get your mind out of the gutter)watching for flow. when the hose is spraying in the lower hose water comes out from the center , when its sprayed in the upper hose it comes out from the bottom left (the one that was clogged). of course the 2 are bypassed by the heater hoses and the manifold that feeds back to the thermostat housing.and it can get a bit confusing. Think turbo, the inlet is in the center, outlet is on the side.

The big round hole in the center is the inlet and it was free and clear, the outlet is on the bottom left of the pump,(looking at it from the front). it's not very big, about 3/4 of an inch in diameter.