sblake01

That's how I sold my three Datsuns last year. The prices I posted here were $1500-2500 less than I posted anywhere else. Anyone who would have bought them based on the ads on this site would have got a better deal. The 280Z and the 320 sold for more than I originally wanted and the 810 sold for the exact amount I originally wanted.

It's all Greek to me! (Well, except for what Moonpup said.)

That would work as long as you block the passages properly so that the throttle isn't bypassed which would cause a constant fast idle.

This thread was off track when things like brochures, defroster wires, and Solex's were brought up. What has taken place in the thread was/is more interesting and informative than the car itself anyway. The car is a rag: period. Some say it shoud be restored but come on, no one is really going to put the kind of money and effort into this particular example unless the simply have an adiding interest in Datsun history. It is, after all. #400 not #004. Rick, I'm glad you got my meaning. You only have about 8 years or so on me so I too must rely on a 40 year old memory to talk about the 70s so I can't be accused of throwing stones in a glass house. "Posting to see the reaction" as I said is totally different from "posting with intention of irritation" as Chris said. I was not accusing you of the latter, in fact, I was not accusing at all, just making an observation. The latter would be a description of what our Ohio based 'mostly stock and original' 280Z owner does. Moonpup, I feel your pain.......

Nah, those would be different. No circle, wider, and not as tall. I had one.

Not really sure how useful that info is in this case. It sounds to me like you either also had a bad cold start valve or you've done other things to affect the mixture/volume of fuel upon start up. When everything is right, the cold start valve only runs as long as the thermotime switch allows it to which is, as I recall, a total of 8 seconds. Cams, air/fuel wideband's etc. are aftermarket mods and lead to a different troubleshooting algorithm than that of a stock system.

You seem to be the one making that determination. Not only about what is posted but also it's intent. As I said: To which I'll throw it to back your're own words:

Stop reading the 'tone' and simply read the information. The only reason I said what I said about Rick is that he's the one that was quoted. If he can post what he posts then Alan or anyone else should be able to react to it. This section is 'Open Zcar Discussion', right? The tone is really hard to discern in the written word anyway........

Sorry, zcar70, but in this case (as in many others) I have to agree with Alan. Rick seems to post alot of information based on his own recolletcions and logic. Sometimes I think he does it just to see the reaction. That's my opinion. Am I being nasty for voicing it? If so then you need to take down the first paragraph in you post.......

Contact Ron at zclocks.com. He could probably tell you anything you need to know. http://zclocks.com/index.htm

Not sure. I know the roadster had the option. I actually saw them in the showroon but I have no clue about Nissan's intent for the S30.

They were selling the 2000 Roadster with the cam and solexes in the USA then.

The link works now. What I don't get is why that black 280Z being washed is in this thread. ?

It shouldn't. 00488 didn't have them. I've always heard that no sub 500 vin had them.

What was in the link? It's been deleted.

I know for a fact that HLS3000488 was red. I thought it was 110 but Mike B reminded me that it had to be 905 since 110 came later. You know, my advancing CRS......

Many things can cause that. Vacuum leaks, bad BCDD, bad altitude switch (Cali cars), bad EGR, etc.

And you have the 81 ZXT ECU?

The L28 ET uses a totally different and system than a 75. ECCS vs EFI. The wiring is different, the ECU is different, etc. You're going to have to do the research.

It's just a standard ballast resistor. Fits several cars. Go to your local Checker, Shucks, Kragen, O'Reilly (whatever it's called in your part of the country) and ask for a BWD ballast resistor, part number RU504.

I've got that one bookmarked and have used it but it has quite a few dead links.

No, no! 'Bad' is in Georgia, 'Glide' is in Florida, and 'Tex' is going to Calli.

I also thought that was an interesting comment considering that his screen name is 'We Bad'. Maybe his post was also tongue in cheek. It's difficult to read the intent sometimes.

The control units used in 1983 were not what you'd call an "ECM". They did no adjustments, calculations, etc. The were pretty much passive and simply patched signals through. Think analog vs. digital when comparing them to anything modern. Therefore, they wouldn't be able to 'simulate a ground fault'.

Your car, like mine, has/had so called 'dealer' installed AC, his has factory which would have the tensioners or idler pulleys.