sblake01

I don't know...I was pretty comfortable in mine as far as legroom and mine was a 70 so it also had the taller roof.

I always used 13 lb. caps on every Datsun I've owned except the 64 Pickup. None of them had plastic radiator tanks, however.

Then leave. This is what the third or fourth time you threatened to? Like I said, that is your call. We'll be fine either way.

You know, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt until this post. I've not yet talked about your character (the arrogant father comment) and/or why you post what you post nor would I do that. I'm just stating my opinion as you are stating yours. And we are both entitled. Stop being so defensive and take it for what it's worth.

I think you're overthinking it now. I didn't answer his question because I couldn't tell what's wrong with his car from a couple of fairly low resolution pictures. And I really don't like to guess. The thread had nothing to do with how to fill the trans of what kind of lube to use. I'm done with this now. Don't be so thin skinned as to feel like a correction is being 'shot down'. Take it under advisement like anything else on the internet.

Anger and frustration? You're misreading the intent of what I typed. I don't take things quite that seriously. I just don't like to see misinformation. Some of the information you've supplied since you've been here, while it may be applicable to a majority of vehicles, it may not apply to the S30. That's all I was saying. And, really, isn't that what we're all here for.. to get right? (Or, at least, as right as possible)

I believe I saw Jay Leno talking about that machine and process on one of the Car Crazy episodes. IIRC he was having a part made for his Stanley Steamer.

Actually, on these cars, the transmissions have a specific oil capacity. If you fill them until it 'drizzles out', you've overfilled it. We've discussed that here a few times.

It was just an observation designed to help you navigite this site harmoniously with the others here. Stay, leave, whatever, that's your call.

Shade133, we're glad you're in agreement with Bruce (post 7) who, by the way, rebuilds Hitachi SU carbs for a living. Talking about 'windows' in a discussion about them, just shows that you need to sit back and listen. 64 posts in 3+ days? Stop trying to impress with your automotive knowlege, it's not working. You have a lot to learn especially about these cars. You've questioned advice I've given you in attempt to help you with your emissions test. I've been around these cars since they came out, you...not so much. I do know a little about these cars, especially the fuel injected ones. Mine never failed an emissions test.

Thanks, Don. YouTube did something about a year or so ago so that the program I used to use would no longer work.

Er, I seriously beg to differ. I owned a 78 280Z for over 12 years. The seats were in like new condition. The seats in my 2005 GTO are way more comfortable. Even the seats in my Ranger and my wifes HHR are more comfortable. You're 22...how many newer cars could you have you owned?

It would be the same relay from 75-77. It's located above the ECU on the driver kick panel. It has two plugs that plug into it.

It's a 77. 8/76 through 7/77 build dates would be considered the 1977 model year.

http://news.yahoo.com/video/milwakee-wisn-18667753/woman-shows-off-car-nearly-half-a-century-old-20858533

My 78 had pins (5/78 build date) so if Nissan switched to tape it wasn't during the run of the S30.

I agree, very nice! Too bad we can't copy YouTube videos and burn them to DVD like we once could do........

You need to run the tests as outlined in the FSM to find out which components in the EFI/emission control system(s) are working properly and which aren't. There is a functionality test for each component. There's really no getting around it. Until you do that, you're just guessing.

Are we simply talking about the function of the ballast resistor?

Are you talking about the cup holder part? That's an MSA Console Arm Rest/Cup Holder that fits over the stock console.http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/CARWCH/50-2571

No, because beyond idle, you're also not getting any alteration/adjustment to the fuel mix from the idle circuit. (Assuming that your TPS is properly adjusted) You seem to be somewhat familiar with how cars work but I think you need to study the operation of this particular EFI system. It's different from most.

That may be the logic behind it....it's been years since I studied automotive theory but I'd fix it just because it's wrong. Timing is an important part of emissions testing.

Yeah, I know how that is. I still have my great grandfather's hammer but I've replaced the handle twice and the head once.

Based on that description, your distributor drive is off at least one tooth. That may be your main problem since it prevents you from being able to accurately adjust the timing.

You mean 1967 or newer, right?