sblake01

It would fit and work but the font is different. I have a 77-78 volt/fuel gauge in good condition. PM me.

I based my conclusion on this:

Here are direct links to the 1977 280Z FSM: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/77_datsun_280z.pdf.gz And to the EFI Manual: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Keep in mind that while the EFI manual is helpful, it's actually geared towrds the 1975 280Z.

Randy, do you have a copy of the '1973 240Z Fuel System Modification Plus Program' reference? The last 20 pages or so of it deal with the fuel pumps and carbs.

You still have something clogging the fuel system. If you have a way of drawing fuel from some other source like a gas can (I use a pressurized fuel injector canister cleaner), do that and see if the fuel pressure still fluctuates. I bet it won't. Sounds to me like perhaps the shop didn't do a proper job of cleaning the tank.

Try http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html if it's temporarily not available at carfiche.

Well, you just have to remember the differences between the different years of Datsuns. There are some, like my 810, where the fuel pump will run in the on position w/o the engine on long enough to prime the system the it will shut off. That comes in handy if you ever run out of gas.

I'd have to echo Arne's sentiments. My cars are for me. The prizesand classes don't mean much to me but the goodies can be cool. I like to 'tallk car' with the other participants/spectators and if I happen to win something, as I have on ocassion, I'll take it but that's not the reason I go. I don't go to near as many as I once did. Based on that, I really couldn't pick any of the choices above.

I'll say nothing more about this after this statement, I promise. Subterfuge is subterfuge. eBay is full of people that play games with their product descriptions, etc., just to make a buck. I really wouldn't expect that type of attitude from a member of this club but my expectations don't really matter here. I've given away stuff or sold it for the cost of postage and my effort to go to the P.O., U.P.S., etc. Parts that other might have tried to make a profit on. I purchase very little with thought of what it might or might not be worth down the road. What something is worth varies from person to person. For me, worth is not just a dollar and cents issue. What I have to go through to get something also factors in. If I sense something unethical about the deal, I don't care how much it's 'worth', I'll look elsewhere. That's just me and I'm not in the market for those key blanks anyway. JMO.

What Mark says about the AFM is true. I wouldn't adjust it without a CO tester. And, even so, the fact that your HC and CO are up and your NOX is way down makes me wonder about the condition of you catalytic converter rather than the AFM adjustment. The timing being at 0 doesn't help either.

Well, it only runs in the start position and when he engine is runing with a signal from the alternator and oil pressure switch completing the fuel pump circuit. 78's were the first to have an internally regulated alternator (with a connection for the fuel pump circuit) and the first that didn't have the fuel pump contacts in the AFM. They also have the fuel pump relay under the hood rather than under the dash next to the steering column as the 75-77 did. I've known a few people that ran into problems by attempting to use 78 stuff in a 75-77.

You bought them on eBay. So why all the subterfuge?

Did anyone see the article on Carl's car in the September issue of Classic Motorsports? I tried to scan it but my little scanner sucks when it comes to color pictures. EDIT: I must have missed it. I see it was discussed last month here.

It sounds to me like it's working properly. If you look at the fuel pump operation chart in the 78 FSM in the Engine Fuel section, page EF-15, and also read the text (11-1) on that same page, it doesn't say that the fuel pump would be actuated in the on position until after the engine is started.

Only you know where you purchased them.

If you bought them from a Nissan dealer they shouldn't have been any more expensive than any other key blank they sell. No more than $8 at the most. .

They'd work for my 810 but I've got the original keys for it with the number on them. That's one thing you don't get with blanks.

Yeah, I'd also like to hear more about the car...especially since it's the actual subject of the thread. You certainly wouldn't expect to find all of this in a thread with the title "Supercharged Hot Rod 240Z".

Sorry to hear that. I haven't seen Elvan in over two years and haven't talked to him for almost a year. I used to spend a lot of time at his shop when I live in La Verne, Upland, and Fontana. I learned a lot of what I know from him but the more I learned about these cars, the less I needed to go to his shop. I guess he did decide to get out of the business. I worked at the Ralphs that was right up the street from Mike's in Whittier. I have been to that shop a couple of times but never had anything done there.

Do you have a way of listening to it? Like a mechanic's stethoscope? You should be able to hear an audible 'click' from the injector when the car is running. If you don't hear a click, and the pulse is good, then the injector is bad. The tester on the left in my picture is just a 9 volt battery, an injector connector, and a momentary switch. I can test them with that one off the car or on the car without it running. It can be repaired but it's probably easier to replace it especially if the electronics are bad in it.

Nah, the MSA is all Datsuns/Nissans, predominantly Zs. The JCCS is far more diverse than that not just in the Datsun/Nissan section but the entire event. I stopped going to MSA years ago because I thought it was too much of a commercial venture and I got tired of seeing basically the same cars year after year.

What the #### does that mean. It brings to mind the lyrics 'what a fool believes, no wise man has the power to reason away'. I'm done here before I really get fired up.

Sorry Mike and everyone else but I just can't view that statement as pragmatically as that. Tomohawk, if you would just do that.....state your opinion and move on...but you have a way of alienating anyone that disagrees with you. You ask for advice and then argue with the person that gave it to you...you bring up many inane, obscure, and meaningless points...you are the most 'off topic' person on this site with the exception of those that don't have a good grasp of the language but that's understandable, I could go on and on. You try so hard to justify yourself. Respect the right to state your opinion-without exception? That's just as ludicrous as the main point you tried to make in this thread. What's next, stating that all blacks should go back to Africa????

I think Mike made his point. Yours is more of a 'sub-point' and goes in a direction that, quite frankly, is actually a little scary......

I know I'll probably regret posting this but, Vince, let it rest! I don't think you realize the light this casts you in......