sblake01

No, I never owned a S10 200SX though I helped a friend with one. The blue 510 was basically a stock L18/200Sx 5 speed that I used to drive back and forth to work from La Verne to Whittier and later Upland to Whittier 5 days a week. It was painted 'Earl Schieb' blue and it was actually a 71. I once owned a white 70 510 2dr with an L20B, Webbers, a Z 5spd, American Libre wheels, etc. That was a much more enjoyable car to drive.

Probably a typo but it's 01....if I am a Datsunholic, I must be into the recovey phase because I haven't bought one in over 5 years.

And here's the rest of what I could find right now as you can only do 10 images in a post: 1994 Sentra 1993 Infiniti J30 1994 Infiniti Q45 If you add the three in my signature picture that's 17 counting the two in the one picture above. There was the 70 and 72 240Zs I don't have pics of, and the 4 other 510s I don't have pics of, a 66 PL410 sedan, and a 67 RL411 sedan, a 71 1200 fastback, a 74 B210 fastback, two other pickups, a 71 and a 72 521. That woud about cover the Datsuns but there are several Nissans I also couldn't find pictures of. The other ten cars I owned were a 62 Chevy Impala SS, a 66 Ford Mustang GT fastback, a 66 Ford Mustang notchback, a 70 Plymouth Duster 340 6 Pack, a 64 Ford Econiline Van, a 66 Plymouth Belvedere 4dr, a 56 Pontiac Station Wagon, a 58 Rambler American, A 71 Ford Pinto, and a 65 Ford Falcon. Not in that order. It's hard enough to remember all of the cars. I know that the first one I ever owned was the 58 Rambler, the first new one I ever bought was the 70 240Z, and the 810 was the last car I purchased.

Okay here we go. I couldn't find them all but here's what I have. I included the Nissans and Infinitis. No stories just pics: 70 510 2dr 70 1600 Roadster/73 620 Pickup in the carport was also mine 70 521 Pickup Another 70 521 Pickup 81 510 2dr 78 510 Wagon 79 510 4dr 82 200SX (sorry for the pic quality) 91 NX1600 93 Sentra

I guess so but that wouldn't be much of a selling point considering that's 32 years ago.

That is true but I doubt that the engine came from a '76 260z' since he's in the US. More that likely, the person that told him that was somewhat uninformed in the area of Datsunology(!).

I'll see how many of the I can find pics of. I know I don't have any pictures of the 70 or the 72 240Z, or any of the 510s I had except. the blue one. I really wasn't into taking photos of cars until the digital age. I'll have to go through the old family pictures to see what I can find but it won't be all of them.

I don't know if I should post pictures of all the Datsuns I've owned. Does Mike have enough bandwidth? Remember, I'm 58 years old, have owned over 50 cars in my lifetime and about 1/2 of them were Datsuns, another roughly 15 were Nissans.

I have the equipment to clean and flow test them at home. It's just 'luck of the draw' to have a matched set. You take any two 'identical' injectors and there will almost always be at least a slight variation in the flow rates. As long as there's not a drastic difference among the 6, they're fine for normal use. They batch fire so as long as there's adequate flow from each injector, the slight variance won't really matter in any way you'd really notice. Racers might want a higher and matched flow rate. I mark the ones I test and match them so that each one in the set of 6 is as close as possible to the others. Each of my cars have matched sets or at least they matched when I put them in.

You probably cleaned a clog out of nozzke in the injector with the Seafoam. Sometimes that works somtimes it doesn't because the Seaafoam has to travel through the entire fuel system. The most effective way to clean them is the manner described in my previous post above with a professional strength cleaner like Pro Ject-R Kleen. In fact that's the only way you can use that type of solution. If you put in the gas tank it would likely damage something in the fuel system along th way. But, I digress. If you've not done so yet, I'd suggest a new fuel filter at this point.

Are you saying that the car ran fine after the Seafoam treatment? If so, change the oil and check again for the fuel smell in the oil in about a week. It's likely that the fuel smell in the oil was already there before the Seafoam treatment. The only way to really check an injector for leaking is off the car with a pressurized fuel injector cannister cleaner, a container to catch the fuel, and the tester on the left in post #7.

I don't really care for the screwdriver test. I prefer to use a stetescope because it isolates the sound better than a screwdriver. If you hear a click from each injector, and you're certain that the problem is with the injectors and not the ignition system, then one them could be either leaking or clogged. Look at your spark plugs. If one is wet with fuel, the injector on that cylinder is leaking. You can use a standard 9 volt battery or a rechargable 9 volt battery, it doesn't really matter. The amperage of the charger isn't really important as long as it's designed to charge 9 volt batteries. Other than that, the tester is just an old injector connector, a 9 volt battery holder from Radio Shack, and a push button momentary switch which completes the circuit when pushed.

He has a 73, according to his profile.

With a molded opening for the hatch lock? That sounds like the 'dealer installed' one on my car.

And the title!

I agree. Evidentally, my car had the emblems removed by the dealer, or whoever the dealer subletted the job to, in order to put the BRE type spoiler on it. I just spoke to the previous owner, who bought it new, and he said that's how it was when he took delivery, rear spoiler, window louvers, dual mirrors, 'BPE' wheels, and aftermarket ARA air conditioning. Apparently, they filled the holes and spot painted or repainted the deck. I couldn't tell which and I've since had it repainted. Rather ambitious for a 'dealer installed' mod. When I bought it, the emblems were in the glove box, pins intact. I removed the pins and mounted them on the deck with 3M Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape.

I have several vin tags on the wall in my garage basically being "used as I see fit".

I doubt that the L20E injectors are smaller than the L28E injectors. In the US, and I'm sure in other parts of the world too, Nissan used the same injector that they used on the L28E on the L24E as well as 4 cyl engines like the Z20E, Z22E, and CA20E. I would think the only difference would be the length of the fuel injector pulse on the particular vehicle. Besides, if that were the case, how would you 'tune' it? The JECS ECUs have nothing in them that can be altered. They're not an EPROM type unit that can be programmed. They're just a circuit board in a box.

Larry, if you you're happy, I'm happy fou you. I won't buy from him, and I have my reasons. Whatever he's calling himself these days

Things were probably different by 78 but my Z came with a dealer installed rear spoiler and the emblems were removed. I put the 'Datsun' and '280Z' emblems back on the deck just above the spoiler.

This would be something to ponder for one part of my argument, which is not really an argument but more just a personal opinion. And it has to do with what I said about 240Zs not yet reaching the stature of some of the other collectable cars. How many F500 240Zs were made, about 500? And how many Superbirds were built? In 1970, NASCAR raised the homologation requirement from 500 to one for every two dealers in the United States. That meant Plymouth had to build 1,920 Superbirds. So there were more Superbirds than F500 240Z and still the Superbird commands a much higher price.

We've discussed that fuel pump here in the past. Can't find the thread right now but the opinion I expressed on that pump is the general consensus. Run it for as long as it works but when it starts to die, take it back and get your money and replace it with an OEM pump.

The previous three posts just fortifiy my contention. They are, like anything else, 'worth' what someone is willing to pay for them at the time.

Yeah, I've done some experimenting with that myself. I have a exhaust analyzer so I'm not afraid to mess with the AFM adjustments. A couple of years ago, I did some tinkering and actually got the car to run half way decent without the evap hooked up but the fuel/expansion tank pressure you mentioned was actually kind of scary, the fuel economy decreased, and no way would it pass smog. I came to the conlcusion that I should just hook it all back up and set the AFM back to how it was. I've not researched it any further.