rosaluma

On another note, gwri8....help a brother out with the brackets to install 240 bumpers on a 280. I have the bumpers, but have struck out with brackets. Gratefully,

Thanks, gwri8. I've checked it, and rechecked it a couple of times. Found when 1 is at TDC, pulled distributor, reset, etc. Still no fire. I believe Zed is onto something with AFM. Will check this tomorrow. Here is what I found in other forums... The fuel pump control for the 75 - 77 N/A. When the engine is not running the flap in the AFM is closed and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM is OPEN. When the key is turned from "OFF" to "RUN" there is no continuity through the fuel pump switch in the AFM and the fuel pump should not run. When the key is turned to "START" the engine turns over AND the fuel pump relay closes which starts the fuel pump. As air is sucked past the flap in the AFM it opens and the FUEL PUMP contacts in the AFM close. When the engine starts the air flow through the AFM keeps the fuel pump running because the switch is closed. If the engine stops / stalls the flap in the AFM closes and the fuel pump control switch in the AFM opens thereby shutting off the fuel pump. Still doesn't explain why the injectors are not receiving any signal from the ECU but, as you can tell, I am chasing anything. I truly appreciate all of your input. I make no bones that I am not very qualified, as a mechanic. Just very eager to have my son proudly driving his first car, very soon.

Compression is 110, 90, 125, 110, 110, 110. Found TDC and checked/reset the destributor multiple times, to be sure.

Wish it were true, Patcon, but alas...no start. Will research the AFM.

Thanks for the quick replies. Yes, continuity between coil negative & pin 1 per the bible. No modifications to the 77 during restoration. Yes, cold start kicks in when key is start. However, injectors are not getting a signal. I plugged in a test light to the harness at each injector...no light. But, when I plug in the same light to the cold start, it lights up. Zed, it will not start, even with starter fluid. Just charged the battery back to good....red herring. HLS30-350228

After 18 months of father/son restoration, we are finally looking to get this thing running. Took it all the way down to rolling chassis, we rebuilt the engine, rings, bearings, timing sprokets, chains, valve seals. Put it all back together, with new coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, injectors, fuel pump, filter. Car will start, but not fire. Plenty of good spark to each plug. 36 psi fuel pressure to the rail. Used both the factory service manual and fuel injection bible troubleshooting guide. Traced it down to the injectors not receiving signal to fire. However, the cold start valve does. How is this possible? We've worn the battery down, and recharge it, each session that we attempt to troubleshoot. Is it possible for low voltate, 11.8, to prevent the injectors from firing? Are both the cold start injector and the main six injectors on the same relay? Bad relay? Upon inspection, the relay looks fine.

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, just read in another thread about the merits of oil in the tube. Yes, also, found it tough to find replacement 3013. May just stick with them, or go KYB. By the way, spindle pins suck. Wish I had never travelled down that hellish road when so little performance is gained.

Just removed the rear strut for rebuild and a pool of hydronic fluid poured out. When I examined the shock, it looks new 3013 from the previous owner (no contact). Is it possible that the fluid has been here from original shock failure? Or, should I just replace the 3013s?

Darrel, I am in need of a tool like the one you made/sold to other members. Sure would help. I hacked off the passengers side pin, with a lot of work, was able to drive it out. However, I know there has to be a better way.