gwri8

I finally did this swap with an ebay honda fan, and glad I did it. Not TONs of difference for a 280, but certainly more air volume especially for defrost and center vent. I had a lot of issues to deal with under the dash so Instead of lying on my back and eating whatever I dropped, I removed the dash. It made that part of the job very easy to do. While I was there I replaced the leaking heater core, heater hoses, side air ducts, bulbs, re-sealed and painted the blower box. Now the air even smells better .

I think you have a good bottom up plan. Get it to go, get it to go where you point it, and most important, get it to stop when you want it to. Body and cosmetics should come last. I've had mine about 1 year now and after suspension, rust, interior and brakes, I'm just starting to look at body and paint. Personally, I'm keeping mine stock with minor mods, more like small updates really like a few LEDs, 2.5" exhaust, etc.. and I did put on a 240 front bumper with a air dam, but everybody has a different a preference. It pretty much goes as fast as I want to go as is. Good Luck and keep us posted !

For future reference, I've had success removing the speedo and tach with a half cap if you accidentally damage your full cap.

Just finished replacing the heater hoses on my 77'. The PO had bypassed the heater valve, my guess, trying to get rid of a leak. I found leaks at the heater core and at the blower chimney. Replaced the heater core and POR 15 patched around the chimney. Turns out the heater valve is in good condition with no leaks. Saved me 200 bucks on a new valve! But Geeez, I would almost rather do a spindle pin than to do that again..

I replaced my reverse lights with LED's a few months ago. I used the 1156 18SMD (185 Im) bulbs without any relays and they seem quite adequate for eyes. The turn signals I kept as standard incandescents. I suppose you could go brighter as I don't think LED's generate that much heat. Just be sure to get white. What led me to change the bulbs was a nonfunctioning liscense plate light harness. 40 year old wiring can corrode in the darndest places. In that case the wire connection to the bulb base inside a plastic housing was oxidized. That was interesting trying to get that apart without damaging. I went LED on those also.

If I was a walker I would probably have a Z carved in my forehead, not a W. Don't blame you oranngetang. There are better ways to spend one's time for sure and what it all boils down to is that it's just a different version of a soap opera, but it is a fun one! I could either watch this or take out my dash and rip out the heater core. hmmmmmm

I think Alexandria is about to get real interesting…...

Quote from the Talking Dead after show, Since Diana was is congress, you know she and the town have something wrong about to happen. But at least everybody (except Darrell) got a shower.

Hello zorroo24, Lots of folks on here would like to help you find parts or ideas for your build. It would be a great help to them if you are more specific about your Z and the parts you need. Not all 280 parts exchange. Things like gas tanks and door panels are just a couple. Pictures are a universal language.

Not to segway from the Walking Dead or this thread, but if you prefer the Zombie motif you will get a kick out of this.

I've been watching since the beginning. Now my son watches too. I guess we all could be considered the new "Dead Heads" of our time (no offense to the original Dead Heads).

"The sulfur question is more complicated than just GL-4 versus GL-5. There are GL-5 rated lubes out there that work fine with "yellow-metal" synchros. The GL spec. is a performance specification, and doesn't tell anything about how the formulator made the lube hit the spec. number. It's a pretty interesting area if you're in to that kind of thing." Has anyone tried Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90? Says it's non-corrosive for soft yellow metals and synchronizers. Also it's GL4 or 5 formulated for LSD's. It's the only thing i could find locally and I'm getting ready to swap back to a 4-speed until I can get the wide ratio 5-speed rebuilt. Should I save it for my son's celica or put it in the Z? I did order some Redline but that is probably a week away from delivery

Not my project but this was on Datsun parts and needs facebook page. http://teespring.com/LNDMRK2 Printed on front and back. I ordered one.

Here is a thought, Maybe all the hopes and dreams that come out of the Beer cans can be repackaged in a heat sealed toothpaste tube and carried with you when out driving the Z.

I've used RainX deep cleaning glass product and elbow grease on my windshield interior and exterior. I did the rear hatch also. It got off years of grime but alas, not the scratches. I've also heard of using a Dry #0000 Steel wool pad to polish the glass but I haven't tried that yet. Do be careful of your defrost strips with whatever method you use. Keep us posted with your results.

My testosterone levels just jumped by listening to that. I feel like I need to chop wood now.

Im thinkin' it'll buff out…...

It's really pretty simple. The new replacement weatherstrip is glued with weatherstrip adhesive as opposed to the original which had a long metal clip underneath it. On my 77, the cowl weather strip bends toward the windshield. If you are removing an original be sure to remove any rust from the original metal clip. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info. I read about civic and accord blowers and now Preludes. I'm actually looking a doing the heater valve and the blower motor is right there, so I might as well make a party out of it right? But literally diving in head first into that cramped, dark, void of the floor is making me a little hesitant. It seems that I'm not as agile as I used to be.

I'm considering doing this and have been reading some of the threads. Which Honda fan motor did you use? Greg

Took the Z to Costco and almost forgot what I was driving.

Impressive Parking Brake knowledge Captain O! I am often humbled by many members like you on this site and no, just regular Poly. I am cheap and can occasionally be lazy. You are right TomoHawk, polyurethane clear will yellow. If it lasts, maybe in this case it will give nice "patina" like they say on Antiques Roadshow . My parents found me under a cabbage leaf there Zup, When it was Waltons 5&10 but was transported out in the second grade. I still have Kin there, although the crowd has thinned. I had a cousin that said we had so many relatives there that he had to go outside the county just to get a date. Even then he had to check the family tree.

Did you coat it with Polyurethane also? I was thinking about wear and tear when I painted and Poly was what I had on the shelf so It got 2-3 coats. Time will tell as to durability on the cheap. I think Powder coating would be an option if it were included with other parts. Jim D., How long have you been in B'ville? I have a history from there.