nissanthanh

Gave in and re-installed the 50amp oem alternator. And voila, everything works normally, even the headlights. Odd....

I will start with the alternator first, as it will at least let me drive to and from work without being stranded! =)

Thank you all for your suggestions btw. Like I said, worst comes to worse, I'll just slap the 50amp alternator back on and live with it. I'm thinking there's some work-around for the missing wire- just got to wait for those who've worked around it to reply.

EDIT: I did test the fuse-able links and power is going through both. And in the diagram that zedhead had post http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

the two fuse-able links are for ignition and alternator: not for headlights. See? I'm learning.... i think

Btw I couldn't find a 4 plug color scheme. Closest was the 6 plug with what you mentioned on the firewall in the picture earlier this morning

Had her for a month. I've never seen a previous owner rewire. Worst comes to worse, I'll just put the original alternator back n re plug everything. But until then I'll wait for socal s130 to reply since he has same exact yr and issue.

I was looking up and down the harness to see where it probably could be. But no luck. Hmm.

You are correct, eurodat. I'm not splicing it, I just panicked when I couldn't find the green-red and I unplugged those to try it out and now I dont remember the order:disappoin:disappoin

So, now that I have a meter, i put one lead to the battery and the other to...?

No offense taken. I've got the meter handy and I can't wait to go home.... except I don't know exactly what I'm going to test yet and what readings I should be looking for. I'm assuming I'm looking to put one lead to the battery positive(with multimeter in 20v position) and one to the ends of those wires that are out?

Disclaimer: this is my first vehicle that I'm doing significant work on, so bear with me =)

In any case, I do believe the green fuse-able link for the headlight blew. I squeezed it and it's hollow feeling. As opposed to the other one is solid.

@Siteunseen: I think the other fuse-able link block is under the visible one. If you notice in the last photo, there's that silver box that's under it.

I'll get something to clean the wires with.

I'll be skipping my workout today to take a meter to the vehicle and it's wires today. Sorry, trying to do too many things at once...

Thanks SteveJ. Yeah I was bouncing and confused at the moment. Thanks for clearing that up.

Tried this morning to look for more connectors. Only found 1 4pin that was going to the fuel fume thing(last photo). Hopefully help you guys see what I'm seeing.

Driver's side wires. Hanging green wire

Driver's side connector that isn't plugging into anything. Black/white and green/red (could this be it?!?! why is it hanging over here...)

alternator shot

Firewall on passenger side.

Better open shot of passenger side wires.

Connectors on the right side of the regulator box(closer to front)

I messaged the other fella who had the same '75 missing green-red. Hopefully he responds asap too.

Thank you guys for all of your help. It's GREATLY appreciated.

SteveJ, is the C-6 farther towards the front of the vehicle? I think it may be right past my 2nd photo. I'll take another shot when It's light out. Currently can't sleep because this is haunting me. But my photo is of my ammeter while car is just started. I'm assuming the ammeter should be in the +.

Shat you're right...

It wasn't on the same 6 prong connector. It was part of the 3 (yellow blue green). The 6 prong connector had the green - red slot capped. Just like my original post stated same as other guy who posted on another forum and in hybridz

Okay. So I'll have someone sit in the cabin and listen for a click.

What problem does the 76 have? And what if there are no relay clicks from cabin?

If there isn't a spark, then I'm good? Ugh... it all started because of the stupid '75 not having that green+red wire that was supposed to be there as stated but was capped off....

ah-ha! i'll be sure to check that when I get a chance this week. Thanks Zed Head!

hopefully i'll fix this just in time before my dapper projectors come in. =) Then she'll finally be my DD. I just hope the other wires in my first picture that are hanging out(yellow is in, green, blue are out of socket) aren't needed after I replaced the alternator... *crosses fingers*

Sorry, which green one in the 2nd picture(the blurry one)? I was in a rush to work so I took a few photos for reference and the 2nd was blurrier than the first closer shot.

Thanks SteveJ. I'll also have to check all my fuses later to see if it's just a blown fuse.(I know, I should have done this first, but I'd still have to figure out what those plugs are for, if they're even necessary...)

So the blue and green wire that are not attached(one has electrical tape on it), are supposed to be in the same socket as the yellow, I believe. I just don't know which order. The other side of that plug(female) is all black wires, so I wouldn't even know which to put in even If i had a diagram.

So I did the upgrade, but when I couldn't find the correct green-red wire that was explained herehttp://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html, I tried to unplug some of the other wires from the triangular/3wire plug. One side is all black and the other is red blue n green.

This guy seems to have had the same issue.

280zx Alternator Swap Into 75 280z - Z-Car - Ratsun Forums

Car runs now, but the headlights won't turn on. The driving lights do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Any help would be great. I'm now looking through the wiring diagrams I'm finding online.

Here's a shot of her....

Tamo, Thats a neat job you have done to get the 240Z brackets to fit.

I stayed with the original shock mount holes. I can't use the 240Z brackets because the shock mounting is lower and further to the centre. Ordered a 240Z air dam and I already have the turn signals from the 240Z. Next is find a 240Z grill.

Which year is the bumper you are using? I know that somewhere in 73 they started making the the 240Z bumper compressable. I have not seen one, so not sure how it changed.

Chas

Eurodat, so are you saying the 1973 mounting brackets might make the 71 bumper fit onto a 280z?

I have 1971 split bumper and it looks like the 1973 looks bent, as opposed to the 70-72.

Thanks montezuma. Already planning to.

I guess specialty order parts cost specialty order prices.

@zed head, you can say that up to a certain point. But this is literally 2 pieces of metal. Measured from a template, obviously. I already have Eurodat who just replied that he made the template. Markups are of course necessary for profit of time and R&D. But at what point does it become highway robbery? Cost of materials is what? 10 dollars at the VERY most? Markup of 1200%?

Look at dapper headlights... I could buy the retrofit projectors for ~100$, then buy the cheapo 7inch rounds for 30, and retrofit myself to save what? 100$ And 6-8 hours of work. I'd be glad to pay that 100$ markup for something that looks a lot more worth it, with all the actual fabrication, wiring and such. But I'm paying a markup of less than 50% of what parts and labor I would buy to make it work.

I'm sure if he did some research on price elasticity, he would make tons more on sheer volume sales, rather than markup. Just my 2cents from a economist's point of view.

280Z TO 240Z (FF & RR ) BUMPER CONVERSION BRACKETS:

124 for 4 pieces of metal that were bent and cut???!!! I couldn't even purchase just one pair for the front bumpers, he said must buy both.

Anyone know of any other sources? Just found it quite ludicrous.

BTW, which type of lube did you guys use? I bought a can of wd40's silicone lube spray. Doesn't really seem that thick...

WD-40 Specialist 11 oz. Water Resistant Silicone Lubricant Spray with Smart Straw

Thanks ZedHead! I'm going to try that this weekend. If I get frustrated I might just go the Lokar cable route. It seems so much simpler...