Johnny wick

All i found is this when i bought it online in Jan 2016

I have a 1.5 resistor and a 1.5 flamethrower coil installed. Dont really think its the stock resistor. I believe previous owner changed it. Nevertheless i found an old 3.0 ohms pertronix flamethower in my garage. Should i order a new one and a 3.0 ballast resistor?

Come on another coil? How can you determine this does not work if my car is cranking?

Bought in 2014. Car has always cranked and worked connected in such way.

Here im posting better pics so you can review the wiring better and the model of the pertronix installed. The resistor was the one that came in the car.

Do you want me to open the floats on the carbs? I also have a couple of float sync sight glasses.

Which wires you want to see? I even took my car for spin and everything went fine. As i told everyone the problem shows up when the car is sitting on traffic for many minutes. Fouling begins.

Please find attached the results of the dry compression test with gas pedal floored and choke pulled all the way back. Im also including pics of the pertronix ignitor module as reference.

Thats not my car. Its an example.

Okay. Ill start today with the dry compression test. Can you point out which of the plugs must be removed from the ballast resistor before cranking the engine?

Its correct. No blue smoke.

Coil plugged or unplugged?

Should i start with a dry compression test with brand new ngk bp5es installed?

The problem is not the carbs. They were completely remanufactured in 2014 by ztherapy.

Thanks. Ill follow your and Mark´s continuous advice. Its a real shame i bought a car that i could never really enjoy. Should we start with a dry and wet compression test? All the spark plugs are new and gapped correctly. Can you confirm that i need to remove the plug from the ignition coil prior to cranking the engine while performing the compression tests?

Just one seal was changed in cylinder 4. Let's go step by step as i threw away all those fouled NGK BP5ES spark plugs and installed a new set. Should we carry out a dry compression test and then a wet compression test before going any further? As i mentioned in the past this car does not have the original camshaft it has a Schneider 274F and a pertronix ignitor installed in the distributor: http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx Remember that California Datsun bored the cylinder to 2.6 and i was advised that the stock cam would not work.

Yes. Its super frustrating as i bought this car from a dealer in Colorado. You get stuck in traffic and the plugs start to foul. Once you accelerate engine starts misfiring. Its a real pain.

Another test?? This was done on March 5.

Took the car out today car was misfire all the way. Guess problem has spread to the other spark plugs and car misfire all the way. I tried to step on the gas to see of by speeding the plugs would clear up but no luck. Guess its time to open this engine. Anyone has a different view?

I believe the original relays were metal cans. Am i right?

Problem fixed. I guess it was a bad contact. I also found a spare one i purchased many years ago identical as the one installed. Is this model correct for this application?

Just noticed my left and right turn signal light not working. Any clues on where i should start? I guess it could be the tired relay. The intermittent switch does work and the bulbs all around work.

Here is the video spark plug 4 20230312_125456.mp4

I found this old one remanufactured i bought on ebay 6 years ago