Johnny wick

Plugged both ends following your advice and now im having temperature rising issues!!

Should i take the thermostat off to see if its shot? any clues? I really dont like driving this way!!

Im really sad! The problem is now worst! The mechanic removed the small hose that went from the thermostat housing to the manifold intake that goes at the rear of the front carb and plugged the holes with brass plugs. He also removed the Heat Control thermostat and hard line and plugged the other end of the manifold with another brass plug. The result is that temperature started to rise and reached the Red zone of the Temp gauge. This is not solving the fuel percolation problem and i was getting really nervous i could damage my engine as the temperature started to rise. Was the modification carried out wrongly? He didnt even test the car and now he says i will need to wait until Jan 1 to revert the mod! Any clues of what could be the cause of the temperature rising to the limit?

Merry Christmas to all of you!!! Picking up the car today from the mechanic!! Hope the plugging helps!! If not i will need to eliminate the fuel rail. Its a shame as i wanted to keep the car stock!!

Okay! Im doing this on Friday! i am blocking it with brass plugs. Hope this keeps the heat out of those carbs and eliminates the rpm oscilations at idle and tendency to stall during traffics and traffic lights.

pictures please!! need to see pictures before doing the surgery!!

Okay! Im doing this on Friday! Anyone knows the dimensions of the brass plugs? Any other alternative than cutting the hose and plugging as shown on picture #1???

Well i did my last test driving the car last sunday. Cranked the engine pulling the choke lever for one minute. Drove to my dad´s house, open the Hood and touched the tube going accross the manifold and pointed on the previous picture. It was really hot! Let the car rest for 1 hour while i had lunch. Crank the engine and after i got home i let it idle at the parkway for 10 minutes. The temperature gauge increased from 1/3 to 3/4 but no further and the idle started to become sluggish lowering from 900 rpm to 600 rpm randomly with the AC and lights on! Is this normal??? I have no AC compensator. Do you really think that plugging the front intake and thermostat housing solve this problem?? This only happens at idle!!!! I am trying to simulate if i where in a traffic jam and it were raining! My dad thinks it could be the Schneider 274F cam which is not the stock cam and on idle could also cause the rpm to oscillate randomly. He is no mechanic but at least an engineer!! http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx I have a pertronix electronic ignition coil also installed!

Yeah!! I tried this on sunday and it does get really hot!!

Question: Will accomplishing this modification cause any overheating of the engine block? Will the temperature gauge reflect less than 1/2 when the car is at idle on traffic jams? i wouldnt like to be stuck on traffic and then all of the sudden my engine will overheat. In conclusión, is this safe for the engine or not?

I took these pictures of my engine block, manifold and both thermostats. It is my understanding that if i can touch the tube you are showing and its not hot, i should only replace the metal fuel rail with hoses. if its hot, i should plug the exits as shown? what size of brass plugs?

is this safe? wont it affect the wáter circulation of the engine? plugging those points will disable the thermostat or not. Panama weather is 29°C right now. http://www.timeanddate.com/weather/panama/panama Which page of the manual you read this??

Excuse me but how and with what do you plug it? this could clearly be the problem as the weather in Panama is 32 to 35° Celsius?

i just want to drive it around to test the fuel mixture is correct.

Any risk of testing the car without the fuel filter fastened to 3 screws Su carburetors (round top) ? How long can you test it without the air box filter on? Trying to get the correct mixture!!

Which thermostat shall i plug? Can you point out?

well i will be taking the car out today. Have lowered the fuel mixture to 3 turns clockwise each carb to see if the spark plugs do not turn sooty black at idle avoiding smooth acceleration.

so how do i avoid the sudden percolation caused in traffic jams due to heat? i already installed some heat shield extensions isolating the 3 screw su carb round top fuel bowls.

Well i tested the car last night after setting the idle mixture Wheel underneath the carbs to 3 turns clockwise and new NGK BP6ES plugs set to .031 gap. Once i crank the engine the accelaration felt very poor and did not became stable until 5 mins of warm up, when the needle of the temperature gauge sat on the middle. idle rpm was 900 and mantain stable. I did think the car lacked a Little bit of power. Came back and open the Hood after 20 mins of driving and all plugs showed as attached. Should i give it more gas at the idle mixture knob? maybe turning one flat or am i okay?

Okay! so what will be your recommendation to solve this? Just replace the metal fuel rail with a normal fuel hose and clamps?

I guess i will just then first try with good fuel hoses and clamps! Also i forget to mention i did lower the fuel mixture to 3 turns each carb approximately. Ill try the vehicle tonight and if the problema still continues then remove the fuel rail and try with a good fuel hose. its weird since i wrapped the fuel rail with isolation cloth!

well down here in Panama we are still trying to figure out this percolation or vapor lock issue. Stuck in traffic, car starts to stumble lowering rpms from 900 to 700 back and forth and when engine heat rises falls to 200 rpm. Park the car, open the Hood, pull the plugs and all came out black sooty. Its weird that even after installing heat shield extensions covering the fuel bowls of both SU Carbs i am still having this issue. Its really uncomfortable to drive this way on traffic. No mechanic has been able to find a solution!!!!!

Where do i purchase AN hoses and adapters? Any kit available for our cars?

So how do i solve this issue??? Removing the rail and replacing it with rubber hoses with AN1 fittings? Im just fed up of this heat soak!! Percolation!! whatever!!

Yes both of my SU carbs were remanufactured completely from scratch by BRUCE PALMER and have SM N27 needles. I am using Automatic Transmission Fluid as carb fluid oil. Nobody seems to have a solution for this strange problem as it only happens when the car is sitting under the sun at idle!