Johnny wick

thanks for your kind reply FastWoman! Hoping your partner gets better soon!

Which sensor do you recommend? Ive seen several in amazon. Including one bosch brand bundle

im tired of troubleshooting the car and not getting the deceleration popping over! I called MSA and the seller says he also has a 1972 240z and has no deceleration popping at the exhaust with the same exhaust: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/15-6302 How much shall i richen the mixture so the popping goes away? im at 4 turns clockwise. Car has good power and response but still popping!

I am having a heck of time trying to adjust the jet adjustment/ fuel mixture knobs to get the browish tanned color spark plug. Is there any better tool than the Gunson Colortune i bought on ebay? Im at 4 turns at each of the carbs on my 72 240z!

Just received a couple of the su float level adjustment hoses that ztherapy is selling. They do look different than the ones Radalla sells. Anyway i am hereby attaching the sheet provided by Ztherapy which states the gap between the top of the float bowl lid and the float is .055". 2 questions: 1. How do i measure if the level is correct? Just plug these hoses to both of the drains with the car engine on? 2. the correct gap is .55" or other measurement? My car is a 1972 240z with dual roundtop 3 screws su carbs and SM needles fully rebuilt by ztherapy on november 2014.

Of course its driving me nuts! Some people like that popping at the exhaust when releasing the gas pedal while others as me do not as with the stock pipe, resonator and dynomax muffler i had previously installed it was not present. Anyway do you have a picture of a correctly tanned ngk bp6es spark plug? THis is a picture of the former exhaust which caused no popping on deceleration.

deceleration backfire not normal acceleration backfire! Totally different!

I richened the mixture to 4 turns clockwise and lowered the timing to 12 btdc. Good power but still getting deceleration backfire when releasing the gas pedal on second and third gear. Ill guess ill need to check on the float valve level as per manufacturers. Ztherapy sheet refers to .055 mm

i have dialed both carbs to 3.75 turns each! Timing is at 14 btdc. New set of spark plugs? these ones are new! can i just simply clean them with brass wire brush and race the car again for 10 minutes, shut the engine off suddenly and pull spark plugs number 2 and 5?? Anyone has a picture of a correctly burned spark plug?

any pictures of a correctly burned spark plug? This is a NGK BP6ES gapped at .031.

3.5 turns for more power. Do you agree?

i have watched the ztherapy´s how to tune su carburetor video several time plus Dylan´s 544 setting SU CARBS Anyway, even though i could adjutst the idle speed and balance between both of the 3 screws roundtop carbs i can´t still understand clearly how to get a precise air / fuel mixture dialing the jet adjustment nuts. I started at 2.5 turns clockwise and have raised them both to 3.5 turns clockwise. I am even using the GUNSON Colortune but it doesnt seem to give me a precise Reading. Should i just trust on the color of plugs number 2 and 5 to verify i have the correct mixture?? How do you determine the correct color of the plugs? Do you race the car for 5 minutes and suddenly shut the engine off before taking the spark plugs out to verify the Brown dark color on each plug?

anyone else bought this a/f sensor? i want to see which is the correct spark plug color i must achieve

Nice! But quite expensive! im using the gunson colortune. Ill let the car warm up and race the car for 10 to 15 mins and then pull the plugs out to see if i can achieve the dark Brown color on the plugs.

okay. I´ll stick with the SM needles provided by them! sorry what do you mean by 13 to 16?

still thinking! the fuel bowls on both carb get really hot at idle during traffic and traffic lights. I even installed some thermotec heat barrier adhesive to the heat shield extensions that face the manifold and both float bowls get horribly hot thus causing percolation!

Ztherapy refurbished both of my 3 sscrews roundtop SU Carbs and install Brand new SM Needles on them. My car engine is not stock it has been upgraded to 2.6 L with oversized pistons and a Shneider 274F Camshaft. Should i consider changing the needles to another type to get a better performance at idle?

Which is this method? Colortune method?

Is there any more effective way to adjust the right amount of turns of the fuel mixture knobs other than using the gunson colortune? I know you start at 2.5 turns clockwise and then keep lowering the jets.

thanks! ill set my rpm to 2000 with the fast idle screw and check to see if when i lift the piston the engines shuts down.

while tuning my 3 screws round top su carbs this weekend after setting the timing to 14 btdc, i found out that even if i turn the fuel mixture knob 5 turns clockwise when i raise the piston the engine shuts down. Could the float level in this rear carb be wrong? It does not happen on the front carb. My tuning procedure starts at 2.5 turns clockwise (lowering the jet 2.5 turns). After that i set the idle rpm at 1000 RPM and doublé check the air with the synchometer. Then i turn the fast idle screw until it hits 3000 RPM on the tachometer and verify the balance amongst both carbs with the synchometer. i tend to increase the fuel mixture knob to 3 turns each depending on the gunson colortune. Is there something i am not doing correctly? Valves have been perfectly adjusted.

well i topped the brake reservoir with Castrol DOT 4, drove around for a while and the lightly dimmed e brake light dissapeared. Hope it does not show up again. By the way how do i clean the brake proportioning valve?

I am experiencing an issue with the emergency brake light at the dashboard. It does light up when i pull the emergency brake lever. However if the lever is down it lights up dimly on the dashboard. I already topped both of the master cylinder reservoirs with DOT4 fluid and the light is still showing up at the back very dim. I did notice that there is female cable connector attached to the terminal of the sensor underneath the master cylinder. Do i need to clean this sensor? something is not grounding properly i believe. Anyone??

is this the Wesco or the MSA kit??? If i replace the original seat belts will i still be able to mantain the fasten seatbelt feature? I dont see that it the MSA KIT or Wesco has any circuit to actívate the red light.

Are the MSA 3 point retractable seat belts considered a perfect bolt in replacement for my original and worn seat belts used on my 1972 240z? Once i install these seat belts will i still be able to use the receiver of the original seat belt? Still trying to figure out how to actívate the seat belt light on the dashboard!