Johnny wick

Thanks Yarb. Its really hard to get inside that hole and replace the led.

The schematic is very small and hard to read.

The low and hi headlights do work on my 72 240z however the blue light in my speedo is not working. Should i attempt to remove the speedo to change such blue led or should i check anything before? I already pulled both turn signal and combo switches cleaned all there connectors and still no blue light.

Well, both of my front and rear blinkers are working fine so there was no need for opening the innards of the T/S Switch. Just some Silicone Spray and cleaning. Nevertheless, after connecting both T/S swith and Combo switch i still i still experience 3 problems: 1. The blue high beam light on the Speedomenter is still not working when i pull the T/S switch lever to change to HI BEAM. 2. The windshield wiper fluid pump is not pumping water when i press the button on the Combo switch. Should i purchase a new one? This one lasted 10 years? 3. Only one of the horns is working and in a very weak way.

Well i took the TS switch off to clean it properly including all connections

Ive unplugged and clean all connections without dissamembly of the TS switch. So far the blue light is not turning on when i switch to high beam.

Ok. So how would you approach this? Tearing down the steering wheel cover, removing both switches and cleaning each of the connectors? Its weird the TS is doing all its functions but the blue light is not engaging when hi beam lights are on.

Well if you pull the lo / hi beam lever of the T/S switch it does work and does its function. However the blue light does not come up when you engage the hi beam

Now its a real hassle to pull that speedometer out and change a BA9S blue led. Need a lot of light in there. Anyone?

This is correct by Dave irwin

Mark, I toggle the switch back and forth without removing it from the steering column and the rear left flasher came back. However i noticed that the blue light for high beam on the speedometer stop working. The low / high beam light function does work but the blue light does not turn on. Any ideas?

Well with the test light should be the same process. It should light up if the blinker is working?

Ok but how would you test the left rear blinker contact works once i remove the T/S switch from the steering column?

How exactly do you test it? with a test light? If so should i have the ignition on and the left signal activated? I really prefer testing it properly before opening anything inside the T/S switch. Anyone??

Sorry Marc. Im trying to sort out any electrical issue before getting into the engine even though it has nothing to do with the engine issue at cylinder 4. Where should i start troubleshooting before removing the turn signal switch?

I found a pic on the web. Should i consider prying the tabs to get inside the contact or should i perform any external tests before getting into this?

Yesterday while turning the left signal while driving a friend of mine told me the rear left hand bulb was not lighting. The this is that it does flash in the board and if you swith the emergency switch it also flashes. This leads me to believe the turn signal switch is failing maybe a burned contact. Theres is a video in youtube where someone pulls the T/S switch from the steering column and opens the contacts . I really dont wanna mess anything and look for a faster solution to avoid removing the switch. Ive eliminated all possibilities an think this is the only solution remaining. How should i approach this repair?

Any chance damaging the engine if you use this anti fouling extensions permanently?

My uncle used to work in TWA AIRLINES as an airplane mechanic he told me to use a temporary spark plug extender if the plug does not foul its a damage valve guide.

I dont see any play whatsoever

Okay but do you want me to disassemble the complete distributor to see what happens? it has a new cap, rotor and wires.

Car has a new set of plugs right now. We can do a new and final test and let the car idling fo 15 minutes simulating a traffic jam. Nevertheless, we do know that plug will get fouled anyway. Do you think i should invest in a brand single point new distributor and coil before opening the head?

Gundee and others, Here is a pic of the valve intake and exhaust seal change process done in 2021. Plug keeps coming out black and this is always after traffic jams at idle.

The thing is that both of the seals in that 4th cylinder were replaced last year. I posted pictures previously. This is what California Datsun installed inside of that engine. I just want to have the parts ready to be installed once the machine shop in panama rectifies the head. Any quality gasket kit and parts to he considered?