inline6

One of the new tools I bought to utilize with this restoration is a stud welding gun: I also got two sizes of pins, 2.0mm and 2.5mm: I had never used one before and was looking forward to learning how to use it well. It's important to me to improve skills and to become good at doing a thing because it becomes much more enjoyable when you can spend a 1/4 of the time (than you used to) to get results that are twice as good as your original efforts. Here was the one of the first dents that I worked on at the rear edge of the right quarter panel. Note that the metal is pushed in enough to bulge outwards on the left side into the tail trim panel opening area. As I welded pins on and used a slide hammer to pull on them, I had to work that area back flat as well. Here is after my efforts. Three of the pins broke loose causing the small holes. I think I could do it better, without making holes, now that I have more hours of experience behind me. A touch up with the welder will fix these holes up. If you look closely, you can see other areas that have been worked with the stud welder and pins: This car was hit lightly in the rear, and the bumper caused some indentations in the tail panel and quarter panels: A couple of in progress pics:

Interesting. What do you think of using a rust converter liquid and brushing it on and soaking that part of the battery tray? I don't want to alter the cosmetic look - I want to keep the factory spot welds.

That is a nice design. I will look at that one next time. I have one, from 3M I believe, which is similar. I may go with that one next time as field of vision looks like an improvement. I have been using play sand because of it's light weight. I haven't detected distortion using it. Years ago, I learned that distortion could result when I used a heavier grain sand. How does the coal slag perform? I assume that it is safer because it doesn't break into particles as small as silica does, and thus the respirator is more effective?

I am indeed. I contacted a company at the start of the project to see about getting the entire car soda stripped, but they said they don't do cars. I have had the sand blaster for years. You don't want to read about how bad silica is for you.

Here are some more areas of the uni-body showing condition before I sand blasted them:

Thanks Grannyknot. Virginia (my original home) was bad enough for rusting out Datsuns. I can't imagine one surviving up in Toronto unless it was stored most of the time away from the snow and rain, driven only when roads were dry and salt free. I've noticed that my modern cars used clips which are water proof for securing emblems and trim items. The Z, on the other hand, has holes in the sheet metal with just metal "barbed" clips. They are not water proof, and let water into the rear quarter panel and the rear hatch. My BMW, as an example, has solid plastic plugs with little gaskets around the flange which seat against the sheet metal. They snap into holes in the sheet metal to secure the trim to the car. I've been thinking about doing the same with this car. Whatever solution I come up with, it would have to be 100% invisible. Silicone rubber is always an option.

Love it every time I look at parts that usually rust out. Here are some pics as I went around the car when I first could examine it well: Right rear wheel well at bottom corner of rocker: Inside bottom edge of passenger side rocker: Outside bottom corner of passenger fender (fenders are original to the car) - note rust pitting, and inside frame double panel at tension rod mount location: Passenger front inner wheel house area: Driver side wheelhouse and rocker lower corner: Inside driver side rear wheel house looking at bottom, front corner, and from center of car looking at inside of same rocker corner: I didn't take pictures of the floor as delivered, but here are some of them in their sand blasted state: What little rust there was is gone now

View Advert Need Sheet Metal from Doner 240Z Hi, I am restoring a Z and I'd like to get my hands on the area of this picture where a previous owner cut holes for speakers. Ideally, to save the effort required and to cover my needs, I just need enough of this to replace the damaged area. Vertical cuts from top down, with about 1/2" on either side of the indentation area and a horizontal cut below it should be sufficient. I need both sides. Anyone have a rusty heap they can pull this from? Garrett Advertiser inline6 Date 11/03/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z

After I had let the engine run several times, I did both a leak down and a compression check. The leak down tests showed about 9% across the board: 1, 2, 3: 4, 5, 6: The compression tests showed more variability, with cylinders 3 and 4 and 6 generating lower numbers: 1, 2, 3: 4, 5, 6: With those tests complete, it was time to remove the engine:

Thanks! I kind of have this picture in my head of a 240z from the past... one that was modded by the original owner. Back in like 1972, when the car was a hot item, the mods: a bump in engine power, a nice sounding exhaust, and meaty tires, would have been rare on a 240z. And to complete the vision, the recently removed air pump, and exhaust manifold, etc. is sitting in a box tucked in the corner of the garage along with the original wheels and tires in a stack on the garage floor. ?

Shipping the car by itself from CO to GA ended up costing $850. All of the extra parts, I knew, was going to be a pain. I looked prior to auction close for rental availability and flights, but long story short, flying out, renting a pick up truck and loading it up, and getting all of the parts back to GA cost $1,654.18 and took 2 days (and into early morning of the third). Total with 5% for BAT was $9240, so delivered total of car and parts was $11,744.88. I am keeping track of costs very precisely and will be sharing with everyone as well as time spent (not nearly as precisely). Regarding the direction of the resto, I plan to do a high quality restoration back to stock, except for the following: The engine had pitting on cylinder 6 that was bad enough to require a re-bore. Pistons are ITM - .030 over. Stage I Isky cam which has a higher lift than stock but the same factory duration (won't be able to tell it has a cam from listening to it) Some bigger valves to allow better breathing Zstory stainless header and exhaust Mild porting to make the valves, cam and exhaust work well together 16" x 7" wheels and performance tires The goal I have in mind is to have the car be like "new" back in 1971, but with "upgrades" for exhaust and wheels. Both of those mods will be fully reversible, if at some point I want to sell the car, and a future owner wants to go 100% stock. The car was originally silver, and I am nearly certain I will put it back to that color. I like the factory orange a lot, but I want to keep it the original color. Silver looks nice on 240z's too. ?

I got an itch to acquire another Z last year... This car on Bring-a-Trailer got my attention and I couldn't let it go. A project car, the previous owner acquired most of the important rubber parts, a NOS dash, a bunch of spares, etc. and did very little to it other than keep it stored in his garage in the Denver CO area for over 25 years. Prior to that, it was in Arizona. So, having restored one Z which had a fair amount of rust, I was super excited to think about restoring one with next to none. I've been at it for a little over a year now, and so I have a pretty good amount of the work done. My hope is that within the next 12 months, I can complete the restoration. I've got lots of pics of progress so far, so, I'm also hoping I can post updates pretty regularly. Here are a few pics after it arrived in GA: The previous owner said he never started it. If true it hadn't run in over 25 years, but the engine turned over by hand. Before taking it apart, I wanted to see if I could get it running and then do compression and/or leak down tests to learn of its condition. I power washed the engine to get all of the dust and gunk off. Then I took the carburetor domes off and cleaned the domes, pistons, needles, inside the carbs, float chambers, etc. The "choke" was stuck in the on position (jet nozzles down) and carbon was caked on the inside of the carbs keeping the pistons from moving freely. Here's the engine after cleaning: Here is the clean engine after it dried. The distributor shaft had a lot of play, so I snagged the one from my other Z. Fuel lines were completely clogged, so I disconnected at the hard line coming into the engine bay. Fuel pump was gummed up, so I grabbed a spare mechanical one (once was on my other Z), and ran the rubber line down into a gas can. Oil in the engine seemed like oil, so I left it as is. After a few tries of the starter, I got it fired up. Still no coolant in the system, no radiator hoses, etc. I just did a quick sync on the carbs and got it running well enough to know that nothing catastrophic had happened to it. Here is a video after only a few minutes of tinkering with it. Next, I put radiator hoses on, put water in and other misc. things so I could run it for a while. I wanted to run it for a minimum of 30 minutes so I could do the compression check or leak down test. Here's another video. The exhaust is original Nissan parts (verified part numbers of center section and muffler), by the way... and very quiet. Garrett

Bump: Hood sourced from VA in the 90's is still available: $300 Headlight housings (metal) are reduced to $80 each Fender still available: $250 Ask questions if you like and I can provide more pics as necessary.

pm replied. This dash was sold.

I sold it.

G5930-89902 is discontinued. This one brings up a diagram at this site which is not a 240Z, but still shows it is available: G5930-89904. It may or may not be. I've ordered items from that site that have a price, but turn out not to be available any longer.

Ok, it looks like I have two rights, a left and a spare spring. These were from a four door sedan (my first car - RIP!) Been in storage since 1987. From left to right above (1, 2, 3...) This is 1 - passenger side, all good (2 views follow): This is 2 (note a bolt replaced the pin for the upper mechanism - I never noticed that before and again two views follow): This is 3: (driver side, and 2 views follow) So, you need what, a left, and a right, and the spring? Garrett

Hey, I've got some 510 hinges in a box. Mine came from sedans. Are they the same part numbers? I can take pics for you to see.

I had this dash restored more than 10 years ago I believe. It is a series one from my personal car, made in 12/70. Here are some pics: I've never installed it in my car. I was not 100% happy with the dash when I got it back from Dashboard Restorations. In fact, it was my second attempt with them, but they couldn't get the quality high enough for my needs. However, I am pretty damn picky. So, I sourced a New Old Stock dash for my car instead, and put this one in storage. Here are some more pics and some details regarding the issues I had with it: The hazard and blank opening above. Once the hazard switch is in place, I am sure there will be no issues with the lower opening, but the upper one isn't quite perfect: This curved area on the left and right below the 3 middle gauges has some slight imperfections. I tried to show them as best I could with the lighting and angles of the pics. There is also a slight bit of dye that has rubber off (grey spot). As I understand it, the vinyl used by Dashboard Restorations years ago was grey, and then dyed black. That is easy to touch up. More pics: As you can see, it looks pretty nice. There are a few other things though. The gauges fit really tight. This was a common complaint with Dashboard Restorations dashes. I have had the gauges in before, and they do fit, but they are a tight squeeze. Also, the glove box door doesn't fit quite right in the top corners. The corners of the door lid are sharper (shorter radius) than those top corners for the opening in the dash. And finally a few more pics showing where some more of the dye rubbed off (again - easy fix), inside edges of the glove box (need to be glued down better), and a few bumps (imperfections) on the strip that goes down the right side of the center control panel: Shipping by Greyhound "station to station" is about $120 from GA to CA. You will need to pick the package up at the station, but they typically are open long hours, so it isn't usually an inconvenience. If you are closer to me, it will be less. Fed-Ex is too expensive. Priced accordingly. If you've got a daily driver that needs a dash, jump on this before someone else does. Garrett

For sale are some original 240Z emissions parts which are, of course, discontinued and NLA from Nissan. All of these were taken from a 72 240z around 1997 and has been sitting in a box in my garage. All prices - add for regular Fed - Ex for shipping. Original air pump with mounting bracket (and mount bolts). Spins freely by hand with no noticeable noise. No noticeable play in the shaft. $80 AB-Valve - or Anti-Backfire valve according to the factory service manual. T fitting and 6 OEM hose clamps - you get what is in the pictures. $30 Altitude compensation control: $20

Thanks. I put a lot of bubble wrap in to protect it and hope the new owner receives it in same condition and is really pleased with it over the years.

Update pics of the fender after sandblasting the lower corner. One or two pin holes and some pitting, but otherwise this is very nice. A fender like this saves you lots of time on body work prep instead of one you have to section in new metal, metal work, etc. --> $250 plus shipping Just as fyi - the problem of rusting through in this area on our Z fenders can be eliminated by altering the back support a bit. Cutting out some of the back support to allow debris and water to drain/fall down, instead of getting trapped and accumulating here is possible without materially altering the strength of the panel. Cut the support for better drainage, sand blast pitted area, epoxy prime or other treatment to seal and you're done.

Saw this new dash show up on ebay recently as well. Amazing - there are more of these out there.

Yes, a real shame. But, vinyl is very repairable. Once mounted, with a high quality repair performed, this dash will look the 100% new OEM dash it is, for years to come. I sourced another OEM dash off of ebay back around 2004. It is in my series 1 Z in (pic in avatar) and it hasn't cracked in the 15(?) years I've had it. Even high quality replacements like those from Vintage Dashes do not replicate the OEM one 100%. So, I am thinking the final sale price will be higher than the $800-$900 range. We'll see I guess. Garrett

Hi, That's my dash in the auction. In the box without padding is how I got it, but I will be packing it far better, better supported to keep it from flexing and with plenty of soft packing to keep it from moving around in the box. I got it about 6 months ago... and didn't realize it had a crack until I took it out of the box to take pictures for the auction. Hard to say what caused it, but I think it happened because in storage there was pressure pushing the center console opening wider at the bottom... Anyway, I am doing a restoration and will be going with a Vintage Dashes one - a series 1 style to match the one in my car. If they weren't available, I would use this one instead. Garrett