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I have a pair of used brake rotors like the one in your photo. They will need to be turned, and I will need to mic them to see if they can be turned and then successfully used afterward. Do you know what year cars were those particular rotors with the square open slots used on?

Hi zKars. Pete here. I'll buy your Caswell plating kit. And I'm in Canada, too....BC to be exact. If you could figure the shipping (cheapest way...does not need to be fast) and let me know how you want to be paid I'll get the payment done. My postal code for the shipping is V9P 9J2 If you want to take this off Classic Z car for my ship address I'm at this email: cain@uwo.ca

CanTechZ, Thanks a lot for finding this bit of firewall material. I think I can use it and make it work for me even if it's slightly different. I just have a few pretty small spots to fill in. If you could get me a piece that's about 5 X 8 inches that would work, or 2 pieces that add up to 5 X 8, total. If you can find some that's fairly flat that would be best. If not that's OK, I can heat it up a little and put some weight on it to flatten. I don't need the soft padding (foam?) on the back, if you can get it off fairly easily. You could sandwich it between 2 pieces of cardboard and put it in an envelope and that would work. I'd like to send you some $$ for the postage....let me know. I'm on Vancouver Island. Can you contact me at: cain@uwo.ca for my address? If you are ever on the Island you would be welcome to visit my garage. LOTS of things that are different about the very early cars. Cheers, Pete

Namerow, I forgot to answer your question---I'm in BC. Pete

Hi Namerow Did you find any of the black early 240Z firewall material that I posted about on ClassicZCars 'wanted' page? If yes please let me know. Thanks! Pete

Wanted: a small amount of the original black firewall insulator material for restoration of a January 1970 car. Does anyone have some small pieces of *original* black firewall insulator material that mounts against the firewall inside the passenger compartment? ---see the photo below I need it for a restoration I am doing, and I want to retain the original firewall insulator that came in my car, but I need some small pieces of the material to fill a couple of voids in my insulator. I need about 10 to 15 square inches of the insulator material, but if anyone has a bit more than that it would be welcome. A piece that’s 3 X 5 inches would work. I do not need the jute material that’s glued to the back side of the insulator. I just need the stiff black insulator material. I will pay for the material and the shipping, which I think could be easily done by sandwiching the piece(s) between cardboard and mailing in a manila envelope. Below is a photo of the textured material that I need to match the insulator material in my car. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I know there has been discussion here of the firewall insulator before, and I don‘t want to redo that discussion, so…….. I want to retain my original insulator because 1) the aftermarket insulators are made of different materials than the original 2) the aftermarket insulators I have seen have a different pattern of holes and cutouts compared to the insulator in my car. Thanks! Pete

@Zed Head You’re right, I did mix up who said exactly what. It was member 240dkw who said “I really do not think he [that is, me] is trying to mess with any VIN”, not you. But that’s not all there is to say about that. Notice that member 240dkw responded to what you said by saying that he didn’t think I was “trying to mess with any VIN”. That shows that he interpreted your comments as suggesting that the VIN of my car might have been messed with, possibly by me. Likewise, I also thought that your comments suggested that the VIN of my car might have been messed with. Like commenter 240dkw, I also wondered why you talked about “reVINing” cars, and about a member from Oregon [which I was told was where my car came from] who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies”. You were asking questions that both member 240DKw and I interpreted as implying that someone, possibly me, had “messed with the VIN”. And why did you also say: “Not sure why you're not giving more info. Is it one of those sketchy ‘lost title’ cars? The Oregon guy drove it in to Canada and left it maybe? No offense intended but the story has holes”, and that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and “Apparently he doesn’t have any transaction paperwork” and “he might not even have proof that the car is his”. Saying that a “story has holes” and those other comments above clearly implies that the storyteller---me---is possibly, or probably, being dishonest. You have no information that would lead to those potentially damaging conjectures. To bring up “reVINing” cars and someone from Oregon who “feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies” in a discussion about my Oregon car is remarkable in the worst possible way, and potentially damaging to me. And saying that “...maybe there are problems with the title or will be in the future” and that “It kind of looks like [I’m] seeking information to help [me] get a proper title” adds nothing other than negative, totally unfounded, doubts about me and the car. You could have asked whether I have a proper title for the car, showing the VIN that I included in my description of the car, or about anything else about the car, but instead you seem to have assumed the worst. As for your comment that “The car has all of the ID tags removed”, it’s surprising that you would take that to mean there are doubts about the car’s authenticity as HLS30-00957. It’s normal for many owners to remove the door plate and the engine bay plate when there’s a compete repaint from the bare shell so there’s no overspray on the plates or need to mask them, which usually looks bad. If you had asked about those tags, or about the VIN etched (not stamped) on the firewall instead of assuming the worst, I could have explained that to you. Your comments that I “did not appear to have proper paperwork” and that I “didn’t mention that had a proper title” are amazing, since there was no reason for you to think those things. All you had to do was ask.....not assume the worst. Those kinds of comments could create doubts about the accuracy of my description of the car as HLS30-00957, whether you intended to create those doubts or not. And that could be very damaging to me and possibly also to whoever owns the car after me when I eventually sell it. I am very surprised that you would be so reckless in your comments on this site, especially since this is the best known website for vintage Z cars. There are reasons why I did not list every piece of information that you think was important or necessary for my request at the top of this thread. Things like the fact that I do not want to name the seller here without knowing that he is OK with that, that the seller was Canadian, not from Oregon, and I that have not been able to contact him because he has moved. Contrary to your implication, I do know the seller’s name and former address, but have not been able to contact him. Unfortunately I don’t have the names or records from any previous owners before him. That's why I posted on this site asking for information. You could have just accepted my approach to asking for help as I did, or you could have requested more information from me, but instead you made a number of very negative assumptions about the situation and about my intentions, and then you broadcast them here, on the best known website about vintage Z cars. I don’t know why you would do that, but I resent your unfounded implications and your approach to “discussion”, which seems to be to assume the worst about someone’s intentions. I think it would be best for everyone, especially for this wonderful site, if you and I had no further communication. @wal280z Thank you for your comments and the tip about the @. I appreciate it. @Carl Beck @240DKW @240260280 @Mark Maras @26th-Z

@Carl Beck @240DKW Thanks very much for your responses. Carl, yes this is Peter in Nanoose Bay, BC. I think I contacted you previously asking you the question about my car's history---whether it was initially sold in the US. But advancing age, I guess, caused me to forget our previous contact and to alert you to my question yet again. Anyway, thanks for the information in your comments. That's helpful, and I'll try to follow that route up. 240DKW, I agree that I can look to the original engine that's in the car to prove that my car, 0957, has a US build and not a Canadian build. Thanks for pointing that out. The fact that the seller told me that it was an Oregon car is consistent with the US build features on the engine. As to whether that's enough to prove to US authorities, should someone want to do that, that the car originally came from the US is not unclear, but might be worth trying. The question is whether that would be convincing to authorities if someone were to try (re)importing the car into the US.

Zed Head, Thanks for your comments, but there is no problem with the title for this car, nor is there any other kind of issue like that. I have a clean British Columbia title for the car, and my name is on it as the owner. The two stamped VIN tags and the VIN etched on the firewall all match. This car is HLS30-00957, and the clean British Columbia title carries that same VIN. I’m not sure what holes you think the car or my story has, but the simple fact is that I just want to know where the car was first sold: the US or Canada? Like a lot of other owners, I want to know the history of my car, which came to me with no useful history, unfortunately. For example, if my car is ever sold to someone in the US I imagine that person would want to know where the car came from, especially since if it was originally sold in the US they would be free of having to pay duty to re-import the car back into the US --- if a US origin could be documented on official paperwork. Also, there is a restoration issue with the intake/emissions configuration, where Canadian cars had the ‘clean’ Euro balance tube on the intake manifold, but US cars had a different balance tube and lots of emissions equipment mounted there. I want the restoration to be accurate, and I think most Z car fans would want that too. I’m not sure why you think I might be messing with the VIN. I have owned two 240Zs in my life, the first being HLS30-03778 which I owned from 1974 to 2003, and which the buyer sold on BaT not long ago. I purchased my 2nd 240Z---the car being discussed here---about 6 years ago in British Columbia and I am pumping a LOT of $$ and sweat equity into a ground-up restoration. I want to do it right, and to do that I need to know where the car came from, plain and simple. I have been around cars all my life, I own 4 performance cars right now, I am serious about them, and I want this 240Z resto to be right. Mark Maras, Thanks for your post. That’s exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. I’ll find that thread and read it. It might give me a good lead to follow. Thanks for the comments everyone.

I get your point, 240260280. Your CDN car has the Euro balance tube without all the emissions stuff on it that the US cars got. My previous car, HLS30-03778, had the Euro balance tube also, and I bought that one from the original owner, in Vancouver, BC, and it was a CDN car from day 1. My current car, HLS30-00957, came with the original engine, per the engine bay data plate and engine number on the block, but it had the US balance tube, which, along with the claim by the seller that it was an Oregon car, tells me that it was sold new in the US. But that's not enough to prove that it's a US car if someone ever wanted to import it back to the US free and clear. BTW, I'm guessing you are somewhere in the East from the snow in your pics. I'm on Vancouver Island and the last time I had to shovel snow out of my driveway was in Feb 2012. We don't get much snow here. Cheers.

Thanks Zed head. I'm not sure where that chassis model identification table came from, but I have a database of hundreds of cars/VINs/photos of No. American 240Zs and none of them have a 'U' on any of the dataplates, or the firewall. Anyway, the car was in Canada when I bought it, so no info from the US came with it. And I have lost touch with the seller, who moved, so the last hope is maybe on Classiczcars.com

Can anyone help me find out the country of first sale of HLS30-00957 ? I bought this car some years ago in British Columbia, Canada, and am in the middle of a restoration from the shell - up, with a full repaint in the original 918 orange. I was told by the seller that it was originally an Oregon car, but there is no documentation of that. I have tried to go through the Oregon DMV but they require the name of the person that it was registered to way back when, and I do not have that info. They cannot search on the VIN, since there was no computerized database of car registrations back in the 1970s. I have written to Nissan in Japan and received back a nice letter from their Customer Communication Center saying that they do not have records of where any of their cars were originally sold back then.....but thanks for buying Nissan products. I have also called the Nissan Consumer Affairs people in Franklin, TN (a bunch of times!) but I can only get a receptionist or people who have no idea how to find the answer to my question where the car was originally sold. I know there was a Nissan center in California not too long ago that might have the info, but that seems to have been moved to TN. The worst outcome would be that the records went into the dumpster in the move. Now I'm asking you guys, and next it will be Carl Beck himself if he doesn't see this. Calling Carl Beck...anyone ---help! Thanks for any info or info sources you might have. I want to have as much solid info on the car as I can get. This is my 2nd Z, after selling HLS30-03778 some years ago after I owned it for 27 years, and which the buyer sold on BaT not too long ago. Peter Vancouver Island, British Columbia

I don't think the crunched RR quarter can be pulled. It's too distorted, all the way up to and including the passenger's door opening. What I would do is buy a good quarter from a shell. A skilled body man can cut the crunched quarter off and weld on a good quarter for less than it would cost to attempt to repair the crunched quarter, and the result would be better. These days, with early Z cars appreciating so much, it's worth selling major portions of Z cars, and that's what's happening. I have seen a guy selling rear quarters off an early Z car on CL, and people offering shells that would have been crushed instead back years ago. Keep at it, keep asking around, list your wants on this site and you will find one.

The bumper guards look like the later wide type, maybe '73 or '74.

2fourtyzee: thanks for replying. Can you send me a photo please to: cain@uwo.ca It's metal, correct? Does it have both mounting posts? Price? Thanks! Pete

Thanks to all for your responses. I guess I overestimated from memory how thick original uncompressed jute was in early 240Zs. Thanks CanTechZ for that very precise thickness measurement. And thanks also Namerow for the lead to the Roadster Factory. I'll check them out.

WTB original 240Z jute in good to excellent condition. This is the dark brown padding about 3\4 inch thick that goes between the carpets and the metal floors in the cabin and the hatch area. I can't use the modern, light colored synthetic padding that is sometimes used in restorations. The pieces I need are the ones for the driver's & passenger's floor and for the hatch area. Will pay shipping. Thanks, Pete

Richard, For my 240Z restoration I need: - Metal hood emblem - metal rear side pillar emblem with solid chrome "Z". Can't use one with white painted "Z" - good padded vinyl insulation panels for interior of firewall Pete Van. Island, BC

Want to buy a metal hood emblem for a 240Z. Prefer excellent condition but will consider an emblem needing work. If you have one a photo would be welcome. Thanks, Pete

I need one rear pillar emblem for an early 240Z. It must be metal and it must have a solid chrome 'Z'. I can't use plastic or an emblem with a white-painted 'Z'. Will consider an emblem needing repair or rechroming. The photo shows what I'm looking for. if you have one for sale a photo would be appreciated. Thanks! Pete

Hi, this is Pete again. Sorry for the delay---family things, and then I was trying to figure out how to contact you directly without replying on this board in classiczcars. Anyway, I want the springs (thanks for the detailed pics), so we need to figure out a way to contact directly. I can call or email you if you like, but you will need to reply with your phone number or email here, unless you know of another way to contact. Not sure if classiczcars has a way for members to communicate other than these dialog boxes. Thanks! Pete

Thanks for the pic, but it doesn't quite give me the information I need. I need a set of springs that are completely smooth and are not pitted from rust---I already have a set like that. It looks like your springs might have some rust pits on them but it's hard to tell for sure. What I need to know is whether your springs have any pits on them due to rust.

Jamal... I am interested in a set of 4 OEM springs from a 1970 240Z, but I need to see a clear photo of all 4 springs together. A single photo of them just lined up next to each other would be good. If they are what I want I will pay your price. Thanks, Pete

Hi tuxedo, I tried to call you but got a message that "my call can't be completed as dialed" and the information that the area code is incorrect for that phone number (assuming that 981.231.8939 is supposed to be your phone number---maybe it's something else?) Can you reply with your phone number or email so that I can make you an offer. Thanks! Pete

Thanks for the info Patcon & Namerow. Namerow, Can you clarify why I need blue chromate in addition to yellow chriomate? I thought yellow chromate was all that was needed for the yellow iridescent look. And when you talk about brightener are you referring to adding sugar? Yes I have zinc, electrolyte bath, and power, and have been zinc-plating lots of parts recently, and it has been going well. Thanks for the advice.