Jonu

Thanks Tamo. While I'm not sure mine was exactly the same since I noticed a few small differences, It still confrimed what i suspected and I was able to get it working pretty smoothly. Now that I feel comfortable that they are working properly, I can finally get them on the car. They are the only thing keeping it from being started at this point

Ok here are the pictures. I disassembled one at a time cleaned it up as best as i could and reassembled using the other as a mirror image to make sure it is all together properly. Does this look right?

Hey Carl, do you have any good pictures of how the linkages on the carbs should look? When I cleaned them up, I left one assembled so I would be able to compare them as I reassembled. I'll post up a picture of how mine looks. It just seems like something is off. When I move the throttle linkage it does not appear that anything is moving on the carb.

Got my new battery in the mail today along with a NOS water outlet housing. I'm hoping I'm able to get the car started on Saturday.

Thanks for the heads up Carl. I went ahead and bought that one on ebay you linked. The lower half of the housing does have a port that was plugged, so I'm putting the sensor back where it belongs. The hole on the bottom half was plugged by a short bolt, so all i had to do was pull it out and put the sensor back in.

Carl, this is what I ordered: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Compressor-Works-Water-Outlet/1973-Nissan-Datsun-240Z/_/N-ip599Z9pd7s?itemIdentifier=104538_0_0_ I'll try checking around and see what I can find at other places online.

Ok, I was able to take the new housing off and get some good side by side pics of the two housings and noticed some other differences. The biggest of which is the thickness where bolts thread through. I would say that it is at least 1/8" thicker if not 1/4". Anyways here are the pictures. The grid they are sitting on are 1" squares. Anyways here are the pictures. I think I'm going to just use the old one until I can figure out how to make the new one work properly. I know that the hole on the new housing is 5/8" but I can't figure out what pitch it is. I figure it's the coolant temp sensor, but I don't know what to get since everywhere I look says they don't have an application for the 240.

I'll check and see if I can find the old housing. They appeared to be identical except for that one hole. I'll update once i get a chance to look.

Update: Going in to get new fluids to put in the car tomorrow. Figure I'll use 10W-30 oil, premixed coolant, and some Dexron 3 trans fluid. Now all I need to do is get some new tires and it'll be ready to go for a short drive to see what else needs to be addressed.

Ok, so I finally am getting to the point to start it. I just have one piece that I need to find before hand. I replaced the water outlet housing since the original was in pretty bad shape. When I installed the new one I noticed pretty quickly that the sensor that plugs into it will not work at all. The sensor is smaller than the hole on the water outlet housing. I have no idea what the sensor is for although I believe it is for the coolant temp sensor. Does anyone have any suggestion for what I should do? It appears to be a pretty easy sensor since it only has two wires. I just don't know what I'm looking for exactly.

Forgot to ask this; the new water outlet housing I bought from Autozone was a perfect fit in every way but one. The coolant temp sensor that was in the old housing is way to small to fit the new housing. It literally slides right in and falls right out. I'm thinking of pulling the housing back off and taking it to autozone so I can get one that fits because according to their system there isn't a coolant temp sensor (atleast that's what I think it is.

Been a while since an update, but I haven't done much due to field exercises and working night shift. I'm hoping to start getting everything bolted back together on Sunday though and should be ready to start it up. I figure I'll jump start it and see if the current battery can hold a charge. I plan on replacing it but will be waiting until I get it some new tires. I refuse to drive it until they are replaced, they are atleast 6 years old and have tread just falling off. Probably should put new brake fluid in it as well. Any suggestion for what spec fluid I should use? And thanks for the tip on the carbs Carl.

Got the new belts on today. All I have left to do is change all the fluids (including the fuel), new spark plugs, and a new battery. One question though, I noticed that I have a set of the flat top carbs and rebuild kits for them as well. I've already cleaned my round top carbs that were on the car, but I'm wondering if I should put the float tops on instead.

Well, after getting back from emergency leave and a field exercise, I got a chance to get new fuel lines, a water outlet (the one on the car is rusted through), the gasket for the outlet housing and some gasket material so I can make a new gasket for the float bowl. I also got new belts to include the belt for the A/C which was missing when I bought it. The only reason I got belts was due to the fact that when I pulled one of the belts off it maintained the exact shape it had been in while on the car and felt hard as a rock. Hopefully, barring any unforeseen events, I hope to try starting the car in the next couple of weeks.

This has provided me with inspiration to strip down my car to bare metal and see how mine is. Now to find the time and money to do it all (mostly time). Look forward to more updates.

I'll take a pic of the two sockets I have later today. I have a 27mm Deepwell and a 1 1/16" regular socket. The walls look about as thin as they can be; maybe I should take a caliper and measure the bolt head. Either way though it seems like they just aren't fitting thee hole in the pulley. If it makes a difference the pulley is a 3 belt version. But there wasn't a belt on the forward most groove when I got it.

Also planning on buying a new battery once I'm closer to needing it. I want to go with a lightweight battery and have the Braille B129 battery in mind. I'm just not sure how much juice i need for starting. From what I read it seems that 650 is minimum and 750 is good. I don't plan on having a stereo. So that will lighten the load some, but I'm thinking of going to electric radiator fans and an electric fuel pump later on. I know those are more of alternator thing, but i just don't want to get a battery that is way underpowered. It has 813 Pulse cranking amps (5 sec burst), 240 Cranking amps, and a 12 Amp/hr electrical capacity.

Finally got a chance to do some more work on the car, even if it was only about 15 minutes or so. All i did was pull the radiator back out and tried to turn it over by hand. I tried a 1 1/16" socket but it wouldn't fit either, so i the tried the strap wrench and was able to get it to turn over with that. I was able to turn it about 1/2 a turn before i couldn't get levarage to keep turning, but i could definitely hear the pistons moving around. Still sounds kind of dry, so I'll probably put some more ATF in there tomorrow and wednesday and see how it feels then. Feels great to know the engine isn't seized up completely!

Thanks for the tip! Today I planned on getting the engine turned over by hand, but was stopped in my tracks when i went to put the socket on the crank pulley bolt. I drained and pulled the radiator in order to have space to work with, but when i went to put the socket on the bolt i quickly found that the outside diameter of the socket is bigger than the hole it needs to go in to fit on the crank bolt. So now I'm stuck trying to figure out how to turn this thing over by hand again. I thought i could roll it in gear but apparently that trick doesn't work with an auto. Thought i would add that I was trying to use a 27mm thin wall socket.

got the second carb cleaned up and ready, now to get a chance to try turning over the engine, first by hand. Then I'm draining the fuel and replacing all the rubber lines. I had one break in 3 places when I removed the carbs.

Good to know Nissan still has some parts for these cars. Thanks for the heads up Rainman!

Well, today I was planning on getting the engine turned over by hand, but wasn't able due to a slight clearance issue. But I managed to get the tabs off the rear window for the old louvres. I've decided the weather stripping on the rear hatch window is going to be replaced, the current one is about has hard as plastic and even more brittle. I also completely disassembled the rear carb and gave it a bunch of TLC and got just about all the crud and gummed up crap out of it. I also got everything back together as well. I thought I found 3 more new carb rebuild kits, but they are for a different carb. I'm going to check the other carbs I have and see if they are the ones these kits are for.But for now I'm pretty happy with my progress. I still want to get the engine turned over but at least I still managed to make some progress towards being up and running again.

Couple more questions. Myself and a friend were going to try turning the car over by hand. I got the appropriate socket and a breaker bat, but when we went to put it on the crank pulley bolt, we quickly realized there isn't enough space between the crank pulley and the back side of the fan/fan shroud. I thought about trying rocking it, but it definitely won't work with the auto tranny.

Got the carbs pulled off the car today. I also looked at the plugs again, four of them are actually champion spark plugs and the smaller two are NGK. Here are a few pics from my cell phone, Camera battery was dead. Good pic of what the plugs looked like when I pulled them Rebuild kits preserved in Miracle whip jars Carbs and plugs off the car All my extra parts for the rear carb And finally the exploded diagram of the crabs, I'm posting this full size so that if anyone ever needs to refer to it they can.

Looks really nice, I love how you did the interior.