Healeyalt

One more question, if I get rid of the CAT and go with a straight pipe back to the muffler, do I still need those heat shields (the ones on the exhaust pipe itself and that large one above where the CAT was). From my experience with other vehicles, sometime those shields can vibrate and resonate sounds creating an iritating noise. Thanks Gary

I'm considering various changes to the exhaust system. I bought the car last Fall and I don't know anything about changes made to it by prior owners. It looks like not too many years ago Midas re-did the exhaust, including an aftermarket CAT. Question: Did the original CAT on a 76 have a sensor attached to it? In one of the pics in my 76 service manual it looks like a sensor going to the CAT. The one currently on the car doesn't have any sensors. If originally there was a sensor attached to it, I wonder what they did with it? If I replace the CAT with a straight pipe (you know, for off-road use in Michigan!), will it be un-reasonably loud with just the MIdas muffler on it or should I try to replace the CAT with a "mini" muffler? The CAT on it is only about 9 and 1/2 inches long from flange to fleange. Any one willing to share their experience with such changes is greatly appreciated. Thanks Gary

Walter, I can relate to the more pressing issues thing. I'll probably keep working on other priorities such as putting new fuel injectors on it, etc, until I have the time to take the wiper motor out of the cowl again and the money to get another motor even if I have to temporarily drive it with the wipers parked in the upright position.

Thats kind of a bummer its inside the wiper motor assembly. I'm sure a new motor or rebuilt one won't be cheap plus I thought it was kind of a PITA getting the wiper linkage and motor put back in the cowl and now I can look forward to taking it all apart and doing it all over again. Oh Well.

Thanks for the tip, I'll definately check that out since at around $45 each time 6 plus new 0 rings, etc I'll be spending a few hundred bucks for everyhting and ever little bit helps.

I should have mention in my above post that this is on a 76. Thanks

They seem to work fine, except when I turn them off, they park themselves in the straight up postion. Before I start takening things apart, anyone have a thoughts on whether the problem is most likely in the combination switch on the steering column, in the wiper motor itself, or when I put things back together after cleaning the cowl area, is the linkage messed-up? My service manual talks about relays, etc, but I'm not even sure where that stuff is. Thanks Gary

Thanks Andrew, that helps. And from the pics on you albumz, you did an awesome job on your restoration.

I'm in the gathering stage for parts and info on changing my fuel injectors and connectors. I see the following info from the Atlantic Z club regarding depressuring the system http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuellinedepressure/index.html I have two questions with regards to this; does the polarity matter on the cold start valve? And do I need to take the cold start valve off the intake manifold or can I leave it in place and just expell the gas into the manifold? Of course this would kind of flood it and may be wash gas past the rings and into the crank. But I'd rather not have to scrape gasket off and reseal the cold start valve again if I don't have to. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks Gary

The ones I've been thinking of getting from the local advanced Auto store are Borg warner for about $45 each http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Fuel-Injector---MFI-BWD_3462617-P_677_R%7CGRPFUELAMS_____ According to the desription they are flow matched and BW usually does make some pretty good stuff.

Thank you Zed head. The guy's posting includes a short "how to" video which was very helpful.

That helps, but the seller's description of the plug-in pigtail ones is a little confusing; (s)he wrote "You are bidding on a new genuine NOS datsun engine fuel injector wiring plug connector harness.This plugs right in to your fuel injection harness.The injector is located on the top part of your engine.This will fit all 1975-1978 datsun 280z.Also 1979-1983 datsun 280zx.This is a must for your restoration.Also feel free to visit my other auctions.If you need more than one email me at end of auction to get more at your winning bid price.As you know there are 6 of these on your car to fit the fuel injectors.If you need all 6 i have the set listed on another auction. I will ship anywere!!!" Making it sound like thses were for the fuel injectors.

Besides replacing the fuel injectors on my 76, I also need all new connectors. I see some seem to come with plug-in pigtails and some with just bare pigtails: http://compare.ebay.com/like/220774721149?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SFC03E/11-3059 My question is regarding the ones with plug-in pigtails, on the injector harness somewhere under the shrink rap covering, are there maching plugs for the connectors which come with plug-in pigtails? Or do I still have to splice the harness and add matching plug-in connectors? Thanks Gary

Wow, that's just a little over $25 an injector and they work fine. Thats good to know. I see right now on ebay there is a set (new) for around $165 and even a set (new) with connectors for $150. Thats a good savings. Thank you.

I'm planning on replacing all my fuel injectors on my 76. I see the price for new injectors ranges from about $45 each for BWD brand at Advanced Auto to over $80 each for some brands. I've used Echlin products on my other vehicles over the years and I see NAPA has Echlin injectors for the Z for about $65 each. Anyway, is there any reason why I shouldn't go with the BWD (Borg Worner) injectors vs paying a lot more for other brands? BW usually makes good products, although may be not as good as Echlin. And I'd rather stay away from rebuilt or remanufactured ones and the core charge. Thanks Gary

Thanks guys. If it looks like I have enough space to safely loop it, I guess I try that approach first. Otherwise, I'll try the other suggestions. I never heard of EZ coils either.

I need to replace that section of fuel hose on my 76. The problem is that regular fuel line kinks when I make the bend to connect it. Does anyone know where I can get "formed" fuel hose for that section of the fuel system? I did do a forum search first before posting, but none of the threads mentioned where I could get a replcement fuel line for that section. Or is there a way to make it fit without kinking it? Thanks Gary

I guess my question is, does anyone know of a distributor of such Z products in the North Central or East coast area vs the West coast so shipping won't cost so much? For example, I'm also restoring an 84 Bronco II and when I had the family on vacation in lower Michigan last year we were going thru the Ann Arbor, Mi area where there is a business that sepcializes in Bronco IIs. I told my wife I needed to make a quick stop and when I came out I had a new rear bumper, front bumper, grille, and fender that I threw into the cargo bay of the 5th wheel trailer, That sure saved me hundred$ in shipping costs! Gary

I'm going to convert my 76 to the fiberglass front air dam with bumper detail. The Z store has them for a good price of around $187. However, I live in Michigan and shipping it from California to here was quoted as $165, almost as much as the air dam itself. Does anyone know of another source for this style front air dam with less costly shipping? Thanks Gary

I guess I didn't realize the condenser with a set of points would be similar enough. I see Advanced Auto list a couple of brands of condensers available for the 70-73 240z for under $6. Thanks you again

I've been looking on-line with no luck. For example, I've searched Napa's site, Advanced auto, Courtesy Nissan, etc, and also did the a general google search. Does anyone know where I could get one of these or does anyone have the part number for the condenser on the alternator so I can do better searching? This is for a 76. Thanks Gary

I was just looking at my service manual and I see there is also a condenser (capacitor) on the alternator. When I took a look at the car I see the wire is also broken off that one (its amazing this car even runs with all the vacuum leaks and other problems I'm finding. My question is, now it looks like I need two of these capacitors and I'm wondering if they'd be the same? (I'm thinking it might be easier finding a parts number for the one for the alternator). Thanks Gary

Thanks guys, I'm sure what I'm looking at is what Zed Head described. It does have some printing on the side of the casing, but its too faint to read. I do have a couple of testing meters (volts, ohms, etc). Anyone know how I would measure its "capacity" so I could find another to replace it with (I'm not even sure what I'd be looking to measure)? Gary

I guess if I had someones email thru private messaging I could forward the pic to them, but I can't seem to get it to attach to the thread probably because its too large Thanks Gary

I'm cleaning-up the engine compartment on my 76 and on the passenger side wheel well I noticed a broken off wire and I'm not sure what it is for. According to my service manual, it looks like it branches off from the part of the wiring harness that goes to the air-cond relay (compressor relay) and the voltage regulator. The diagram list it as going "to condenser"? But it broke off something that looks like a capacitor or something mounted on the lower part of the bracket on the wheel well. (I hope that makes sense, its kind of hard to describe some of this stuff and I did take a pic but I can't seem to get the pic attached) Anyhow, can someone please tell me what that little capacitor-like looking thing is this wire attached to, what it does, and where I can get a replacement? Thank you Gary