cozye

looking nice

sweet. Glad you got it worked out.

You have two choices. You can get the 280z airdamn and keep the turn signals in the stock location. This will work very well and the 240 bumpers will fit right into place. Or you can get a 240z air damn, then you will have to get 240z turn signals and a 240z grill. Personally, I went the 280z route. I do have some 240 bumpers that need restoration for cheap if you are interested. I decided to go with the new stainless ones.

Just to close the thread for future searches. It was the side seals on the rear main cap that were leaking. Replaced them earlier this week and problem is finally solved.

Just FYI for anyone searching in the future. The leak started to get worse, so I went on and made the repair. It was definitely the side seals that were leaking. Once I got the oil pan off again, I could see the oil seeping from the outer seem of the cap, especially when I pushed on it. Fortunately this was a very easy job. I was able to take a small screw driver and pick just enough of the rubber out so that I could grab on the nail with some needle nose pliers. The seals slid out very easily. The new ones went in nice and tight. Ran the car a few times and no more leaks! Previously just the car sitting it would leak, especially if the front was on jack stands so that the oil was leaning back on the rear of the block (it would leak a puddle the size of a small plate in 3 or 4 days). It no longer leaks jacked up or running now.

You can use a hack saw, make a cut in the sleeve along the length of it, and it takes enough pressure off that you can easily tap it out with a screwdriver. 5 minute job.

Use lots of PB blaster, and leave the impact wrench in the drawer. Impact wrenches are no good on 40 year old cars. Do the struts and springs at the same time. Get new end links for the sway bar. And forget about the spindle pins. Oh, and it took me two weeks working on it in the evenings and weekends. I didn't paint any of the suspension pieces though, so it will be longer.

Hey Sarah, Get one of those $15 mini inline fuel pressure gauges from summit, and put it inline between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. That way when you have the issue you can pop the hood and get a real time FP reading. Personally I don't think it's anything heat related at the rear of the car. There are plenty of FI Z's running around with no special heat shielding around the differential, gas tank etc.. The fuel pump may be getting hot just under it's own operation. I suspect you have a faulty fuel pump, or something in the fuel circulation that is causing the issue. Do you have a fuel pump pre filter ? Have you looked at the inlet screen on your fuel pump? Are you sure your gas tank is clean? Also, you should be able to take an air hose and blow out the return line after the FPR, and make sure there are no blockages there.

It's nicer over here. You are on the right track.

What's your fuel pressure readings when this is happening? This should tell you everything !

Thanks for the feedback. Just trying to gear up for items next on my list. I'll have about 6 weeks to figure it out as my car is going to paint next week

Ok, surely someone has used this carpet kit. What other choices do I have to cover those shock towers ?

LOVE that color.

very nice

be careful. If the previous repair on the bottom of that fender was not done correctly, or the rocker rotted out behind the fender, you may open up a can of worms when loosening the fender. It does need to slide forward just a hair, but equally important is that the fender bolts on from the bottom and you have to really pull it in tight to the rocker when tightening the bolt. If that bolt or the bottom of the fender where it mounts too is not clean and strong looking, I'd wait until you have it painted. You may get it loose and twist the bolt of out the rocker if it's seized or rusted badly, or the thin tab in the inside of the fender could be weak and barely hanging on too. Here's a couple pics of whats behind there as I was repairing the area on mine

My white interior is getting refreshed after my car gets back from paint. I'm redying all my panels, however the shock tower vinyl is toast, cut up, and was glued on. I'm thinking about getting the molded carpet kit from BD, that includes the shock tower and wheel well pieces in black carpet. This should still look fine in my car as it has black carpet etc.. anyway. The vinyl pieces aren't available for a 78, much less in white. Has anyone had any experience with the BD molded kit? Just wanted to make sure it fit ok basically. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=71

ah man. That really blows. You just got done painting it too. You can be thankful you still had the park bench bumpers on it, 240 bumpers would have had you all smashed up.

ah man. That really blows. You just got done painting it too. You can be thankful you still had the park bench bumpers on it, 240 bumpers would have had you all smashed up.

It's a 280z thing. Fill it.

That's because the AFM has to match your ECU. AFM's even in the same year are not interchangeable always.

They would have a lot better luck if they posted detailed pics of the interior, underhood, and under body. It's a fresh paint job, and the jambs weren't done.

herb, did you get your car painted ??? You must post some pics up !

Good idea. I had planned on pulling the grill off and cleaning it up, painting, etc.. but I do know a powder coater near by and that's a super idea. Thanks man. I'm looking forward to it. I hope to have it shiny in a month or two. Got some wheels sitting in my house that can't wait to go on. I did quite a bit of research on this. Not sure what plastic you used. I used evercoat gold, directions specifically say to use ONLY over bare metal. Looked on quite a bit of painting and restoration forums and this is the consensus 100% of the time. That said, there is another product made by evercoat called "metal gaze" which is used to fill pin holes and very small imperfections. This product specifically says to apply over primer, or even mix in with primer to thin it out. I suppose it really depends on what product you use. Another thing that will affect this is how much hardener you mix. If you get too much hardener in the plastic filler it will not flex as much and tend to crack over time. I do appreciate the tip, but I don't think I would have done it differently. Hopefully I'm not wrong!

Thanks. It's been a great learning experience for me. I've wanted to weld for years and finally had an excuse to buy one and learn to do it. It's given me a ton of practice and I've learned a lot along the way. My first few welds were a bit tricky, a few cold spots, burns, etc.. Now I can weld with confidence and definitely have improved. I love welding. I'm looking for stuff to weld all the time now.. The cool thing is that it opens up so many possibilities to solving problems. I look at problems differently now. It's a great feeling to be able to melt metal together, make any kind of strong bracket easily and quickly, patch holes like it's nothing, etc..

I vote water temp sensor. Check it according to FSM and make sure your connections to it are good. If the water temp sensor is disconnected or bad, it will dump a ton of fuel into the motor and you will have a real hard time getting it to idle. If this suggestion, or the other good suggestions made don't yield anything, then just go through the FSM procedure for testing the EFI after verifying good spark. Also, you need to tell what year 280 you got. Their are subtle differences in the EFI between each year.