robftw

Keep in mind, every hard line flex hose, pad, caliper, rotor, and drum were replaced. But my symptoms are: car leans to the right when braking softly hard to depress pedal When i jack the car up off the ground both tires are hard to move occasionally when its real bad and i need to stop, rotors get red hot from friction brake light occasionally comes on when braking Feels like braking force diminishes 50-60% on occasion im going to take apart the valve this weekend and have a look

Put a drop of oil around the O-ring too, it'll help the seal. I've always used DOW33, or DOW55 Playing years of paintball made me an oring lube expert

1976 280z i keep forgetting to put this in the first post edit: this is for the one on the firewall

I can't find one on ebay, rockauto, autozone, carquest, napa, or pepboys. What do i do now, is there anyway to rebuild it? my front brakes occasionally seize up. this is driving me crazy because i just dropped 250$ on a complete brake system overhaul. New master, booster, pads, shoes, calipers, and drums. Also, it's not the flex hoses i replaced those first, and when i hit the proportioning valve on the firewall they magically work again...

manifold gasket on the block? or where the exhaust pipe connects to the manifold

Contact cleaner wouldn't get the gum out.. it was almost a pine sap consistency Long story short, brake kleen solves EVERYTHING

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsHqBo_o5NU L28 No cat, P90 head And some donuts, recorded this from a distance, yes i know my valves are ticking and they were fixed http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAWWgfO543g

I suggest using easy off oven cleaner on the block, it will make life much easier

I just took the PCV valve off and cleaned it, i had a milky chocolate colored substance coming out of the crank case hose.. i also found an extremely small coolant leak by cylinder #6 I've drove it almost 500 miles so far, so it doesn't look severe. Looks like teardown is going to happen sooner than i expected

i just checked the plugs, they are all dry gray / gold color I just returned the hosing system to stock, but i noticed oil on top of the valve cover coming from the cap.. it was sealed tight when i tried to remove it

This is the most random hijack post i have ever seen Also, i'm going to adjust the valves tomorrow when i get the feeler gauges from my father if its something serious like piston rings.. well it won't matter much to me because i'll just take the car off the road. I have a few LD28 cranks coming from the dominican republic, so i will be stroking this car out to 3.0... maybe 3.1 if funds allow. If anyone is seriously interested in an LD28 crank, PM me i will part with one, maybe two of them however they have not arrived yet.. boat shipping takes a long time

Okay i'll have to tap into the new air intake then. Also my car does have a serious tapping coming from the no. 5 cylinder thats why i'm 90% sure its my valves

I did not have to adjust anything to get the engine running differently, it actually ran better without the vac leaks coming from the old boot. Keep in mind most of the emissions systems on my car have been removed. looking back, i never noticed if i had a PCV valve, This picture shows the crank case hose it looks like it might have one on it. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZcHPumE9nv0/TcSfQhggSbI/AAAAAAAAAMw/-V3O2imZe-0/s1600/WP_000568.jpg Here is a picture of the changes i made, i believe the car used to have a T fitting for the cold start air valve / valve cover but it is missing, the air valve hose routes back to the intake manifold..

ACtually is the PCV valve on the bottom of the intake manifold? if thats what you're asking about i "might" have one, i never looked. also i had oil in my AFM when i removed the hose coming from the boot, to the valve cover

oh i need to add this, its a 76 280z Fuel injected, I do not have a PCV valve

I've known my valves needed adjusting for a while now, however today i changed my intake setup to use a filter ontop of my valve cover. Driving i had HUGE amounts of exhaust coming through the holes in my fire wall / shifter hole (i have no boot) When i looked at the engine bay and revved the engine, i saw the exhaust come shooting out of the filter. I'm assuming this is because i need my exhaust valve adjusted correct? and not nothing seriously catastrophic.

Well, it was inevitable my first deer. I was doing 40 in a 40, braked and missed the first deer.. second deer hit the rear quarter panel. I'm looking to see if anyone has a spare driver side ZG fender flare.. I don't think this one can be repaired.

I'm looking for photos of the MSA 280z interior, my car is a 76.

I'm reading them now, i'll transfer these pages to my laptop. Also stevej, I got my hazards to work, the right blinker is acting funny.. i took the battery out and used cleaner on the mechanical parts of the turn signal switch (they are gummed up) And eventually got it to turn on, however as it blinks the front and rear right turn signals fade down to nothing, and all i have is the clicking noise inside the car. Do you think its just bad contacts in the steering column switch?

Took your advice and took apart my extra (cut) wiring harness. I used the better clips of the two, and used the fuel injector hold down clip (they work better) The car now idles fine and is running well, I just need to adjust the valves. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugvFMXsU0G4

i was poking around again, its not the connectors themselves, it is the wires just after the bullets, one of them has a short ( i cleaned out all the bullets ) so eventually i will repair it but for now im going have it zip tied in a way that it wont short anymore.

missed the edit button again.. Anyways i pulled all the injectors and turned if over to check if it was flooded... and .. it started.. I let the gas run out and decided to do some more investigating. I cleaned up all the injector clips while i was out there, 2 of them were green with corrosion.. its the simple things everyone misses. Anyways, i was playing around with the thermostat housing wires, i managed to get the car started again with the injectors plugged in, For whatever reason when i tug on the wire to get a faster idle, and then rev the engine it almost stalls every time.. hmm Don't know why it does this, im going to check the EFI bible tomorrow and look into it further. Anyways, in the end i found the "sweet spot" I got the engine to have a stable rpm of about 850, it revs to 5k+ with no problems. Needless to say i will be getting out my army of zip ties tomorrow to make sure the wires don't ever move again.

Cant edit the last post.. I was adjusting the dizzy and found out the group of wires heading to the thermostat (the 4 bullet connectors) made my idle jump up and down.. Anyways, i pulled them out to the side to where it had high idle and left it, the engine ran amazing, i was able to adjust the dizzy, change the idle speed everything. I guess i had a short somewhere over there. now here comes the kicker, when i went to rev the engine.. well it died and now refuses to start, i REALLY hope its just because i might be out of fuel.. i put 3 gallons in it earlier today for a short drive / testing engine. Maybe i ran out of gas D: I haven't figured out my average MPG yet. ODO says i drove 40 miles.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68ifU_6SSUg Updated video, running bad again even with the injectors cleaned. I'm gonna get it professionally timed tomorrow i'm done dealing with the ignition bull.

its looking like its in the steering colum, i'll take it apart and clean it. It clicks when its in the "on" position but no lights.