garretthes

I have replaced every vacuum line and no change. Will carb cleaner work the same? Don't have a good torch handy.

Can't find the vacuum info anywhere in the FSM

Tested the vacuum and it's 13 HG at idle. I'm thinking this is way too low. Going to look and see what it should be

What's the best tool to buy to test vacuum and fuel pressure? Also, where do you tap into the fuel rail?

Going to get a set of NGK plugs. A Nissan mechanic friend said NOT to use anything else.

OK, replaced the coolant temp sensor. It was reading 1.75 at the sensor AND pin 14 on the ECU connector as well so the wiring is good. With the new sensor it's down to 1.5. I don't know if that will make much of a difference. It certainly didn't make a difference in the way it runs now. Same pattern. Starts right up and runs pretty good for about 30 seconds then goes to h*ll. I'm going to purchase a vacuum and fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and see what I have. My next guess would be the FPR. What bugs me there though is I already swapped the one from the parts car and there was no change. Maybe it's not getting enough vacuum? Would that cause it to let the pressure run too high?

I believe it's pin 14 for a 79 I checked this yesterday and I think it was in speck. I will check again. My concern is whether or not I'm setting the voltmeter right

Do you know what it should read cold? The book says 500 ohm at 150 degrees.

It is on the thermo housing

Good call. I have tried tapping on it but no luck. I put a test light on the connector and it lit up nicely from both terminals. I will try the battery trick tomorrow.

Went through and found a missed connector to clean. The thermotime connector was pretty corroded. I cleaned it and also replaced the coolant temp sensor with the same part from the parts car because the wire was suspect. It was frayed were it touches the sensor and corroded. Started it up...it ran pretty good for a minute then the same thing....ran terrible. Wouldn't rev without detonation or backfiring in the intake. Something is happening after 20 0r 30 seconds to make it crap out.

Also, I removed the starter wire and had someone turn the key to start. I could hear the fuel pump but I could not here anything from the fuel pressure regulator. Is it possible it is stopped up and letting the pressure get too high?

I forgot to mention I did the screwdriver to ear method of checking the injectors. They all are pulsing except #1 as mentioned. #1 is closed. That plug was clean

Cleaned the plugs with wire brush and replaced them. Started the car. It ran OK for a few seconds then started to miss again. After about 30 seconds it worsened and wouldn't rev without bogging and detonation. I should mention that #1 injector stopped working. This sucks because it was working after I went through the fuel rail months ago. Anyway, I ran the car about a minute, shut it down and pulled 2 plugs and they were black and damp. Smelled like gas. I should also mention this car doesn't leak a drop of oil or anything else and when we had it running a few weeks ago it didn't smoke at all.

I will pull the plugs and clean them. They are black from excessive fuel. The last problem I had was white smoke and waaaaay too much fuel. It was coming out the tail pipe. I fixed that (Not sure how). I have been going through and cleaning all the connections including the temp sensor connectors and that helped. When I crank it it runs fine and blows exhaust. I will get back to you after I clean the plugs off then run it again.

We drained the fuel when we replaced the pump. The filter is also new. Good call though

This car sat up for a couple of years. I replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned injectors. I am getting good spark at the plugs. We had it running well several weeks ago. Since then I had to replace the clutch slave/brakes so I could finally drive it. Not it runs like crap. When I hit the starter it fires right up and runs OK for a minute then gets worse then dies. Then it will not start The following systems have been ohmed out and are within spec. Idle Throttle Switch-OK Full Throttle Switch-OK Air Flow Meter Resistance-OK Air Temperature Resistance Sensor-OK Water Temperature Sensor Resistance-OK Air Regulator and Fuel Pump Circuit-OK ECU grounds (4)-OK I also cleaned all the electrical connectors. I'm wondering if the cat might be blocked up. Is there a way to check that without removing it?

I tried Rockauto. I ended up using the 83 master cylinder and booster from the parts car. The mc still needs replacing and I was a le to get one from OReilleys.

I have been looking for weeks for a re-manufactured master cylinder or repair kit for my daughter's 79. They are back ordered EVERYWHERE. Not interested in a junk yard part because they don't last sitting idle. Not worth the risk. No luck on Ebay either. If anyone has an idea I would love to hear it. I have posted in the parts wanted sections of several forums. We have an 83 parts car but the MC is different.

Does anyone know where the vacuum control knob is located under the dash? Trying to get everything back together. It has two vacuum lines going to it and a switch that's labeled open - close

Called RC Engineering and ordered them today.

Ready to reinstall the injectors and fuel rail but several of the pintle caps are cracked. Anyone know an online source? 79 280zx na

I'm having the same problem. Any luck?

Also not getting spark at the coil wire to the dizzy

Also noticed I don't get a tach reading when I try to crank it.