Shade133

is this a good idea? would i be able to pass emissions more easily if i do this? is this even worth it? or is there to much electronic stuff id have to remove/replace? ive always liked carbs better for everything except extreme 4x4 . please shed some insight on this subject for me.

id say rip out everything that has to do with the ignition controll from the zx and install it in your 75.

i know its on the passenger side under the dash board on 78 280z's have you checked there? if its not its going to be in the engine compartment passenger side on the fender well in front of the battery where all the other relays are

ill give you my z and 500 dollars a month for 5 years if you sign over your pink i only wish

thats a good idea. and with the deadline, i dont have the money until the 21st when i get paid so i wont be able to make it

check this one out. not a fan of the 2+2 but for 2800 its nice http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/1827673276.html here is a 72 240 really nice exterior, interior needs a lot of work and engine compartment looks rough but i bet you could talk this guy down to 4500 its been up for a while http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1828551473.html and this is the Z i SHOULD of bought but wasnt for sale when i bought mine. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/1828937015.html

that car is worth about 300 bucks depending on how many good parts are actually on the car

this guy is selling this car from fresno, ca. my home town all my life up to a few months ago. i believe ive seen that thing drive around and its suuuuper nice. and those speakers in the back look like a box sitting in the car, something you can definitely take out if he didnt mount them in somehow stupidly. EDIT: i also agree with everyone saying this guy is charging WAY to much. i didnt even look at the price until i saw the posts. like ive said ive seen this car and its super nice but he's asking a price for a FULLY restored series 1 z which this is not fully restored. like many have said and i can confirm from seeing in person, the wheels are stock, the rear vents seem to be removed? the intake is off. a few weird things in the engine that can indicate mis-matching numbers. or even if their matching numbers. its missing stuff like stock air intake, valve cover. sound system is not stock. as for the dask cover he's talking about. the pictures seem to show the original dash without a cover. which would mean he put one on to protect the dash in the future. as for the tires. they dont look to be stock size. also. no suspension pictures, what suspension is in the car? its really hard (nearly impossible) to find stock spec suspension parts like stock springs. also how does the uniframe look? is it all dented from being jacked up? another thing is being its a california car. he says it has 90k original miles. which can be true, but california is NOT strict on keeping track of miles on a car. ive sold cars that had over 100k miles above what the dmv thought it had and what the pink slip said it had. a lot of people just say it has a few 1000 over what it says on the pink slip when the bought it and therefor the car in the DMV's eyes stays at really low miles. one more thing. it states that the title will be discussed down at the bottom and its not. and the fact that it was a non functioning frame off restoration probably means it was wrecked and restored. which means the title is a salvage title, unlike phoenix, az you can not have a SALVAGE RESTORED title in california. its either salvaged or not. and if its a salvage title that comes with that vehicle. its not worth more then 4k. regardless of what you do to it. my .02 cents

awesome. ill Severely check for intake and vacume leaks. ill need a few cans of carb cleaner for this and i know to check for intake leaks and vacume leaks on the intake manafold and all componants and vacume lines but is there anything else i can check, like those little vacume pods (about the size of a quarter) that are on some vacume hoses? if so how do i check those. and are there any vacume componants i can check that lead to vacume lines or provide/use vacume? if i check all this and it still misses then i will take it to the mechanic, because he said with that 100 dollars he will first hook it up to a gas analyzer and adjust the AFM and adjust timing and idle, then move on to check sensors and connectors and what not.

ok the last emissionstest numbers are as fallows (they only test HC and CO here in phoenix i guess) LOAD READING Hydrocarbons in PPM 210 (standard is 250) pass Carbon Monoxide in % 0.94 (standard is 1.50) pass IDLE READING Hydrocarbons in PPM 1334 (standard is 250) Fail Carbon Monoxide in % 0.10 (standard is 2.00) pass. (EDIT)Here are the emission readings from before i did all the work on it. LOAD HC PPM 220 (250) CO% 0.43 (1.50) IDLE HC PPM 828 (250) CO% 0.06 (2.00) SO from what you guys are saying and what the readings are saying, at idle i have a LEAN missfire, correct? at load everything checks out but at idle the CO is WAY to low.. sooo i either have a vacume leak or another intake leak? or is there other things that might be wrong like a bad valve? or weak valve spring? or maybe valves need to be adjusted? the mechanic wants me to spend 100 bucks and have him look at it, which isnt bad, but ill be mad if i pay him 100 bucks for something i could of fixed with a 2 dollar hose. or a new hose clamp. or a 10 dollar sensor, or connector, i just dont have the money to waste right now.. if i can be efficiant with it. which sucks because id love to have the mechanic go all through it and make it pur like a lion again! so what do you guys think? BTW here is a picture of it. just for fun. it even has a aftermarket moon roof! (sunroof without the hindges attached ..)

sorry for the double post, just saw this. what is the CSV?

yes it has a cat and its was said that it was still in good condition from the exhaust guy. and the co was in passing range when i took it to emissions.. i dont know the exact number (im at work) so in a while when i get a few moments ill walk down to the car and grab the paper. but i do know it was in passing range when the hydrocarbons were up 1300 (around 250 pass) which is why im so stumped because ive never seen hydrocarbons up so high and not have the CO off also. ill post the actuall ratings in a few

z 1975 im from fresno up until a few months ago ive lived there all my life. just wanted to share that . wonder if ive seen your z around. i used to roll with another 78 280z a few years ago.

good because i hate it when comptuers go into limp mode. if they dont it leaves for better trouble shooting. like disconnecting sensors and reconnecting them to see if they work!

awesome! thanks a bunch. one other question. could i fix this issue by maybe a leakie injector. or possible my cold start injector. i was reading another post and it makes sense that my cold start injector could be leaking even when unplugged (which its unplugged)..

no ive yet to buy one.. i cant find one here in the normal parts stores so when i get paid i plan on buying one online. should the car run better if i unplug the tps? maybe send it in a limp mode or a guess mode

i have messed with that a lot and it doesnt seem to make much of a change. sometimes it will iddle lower or higher and sometimes it wont do anythign. i have messed with that for a hour or more trying to get it to make a difference. is there an effective way i can use a volt metor (i have a old school analog one) to test it and adjust it the right way? ive also read something about taking it apart and re adjusting the points inside of it.

forgot about that. put seafoam in the engine and gas tank? ive ran 2 bottles of valvoline injector cleaner in it a while back before the first test.

if all this sounds like something you dont want to do, go to a junk yard, find a 240z and take all of the strut insulator mounts off of them and install them on your car. if i rememebr right the 240z strut insulator mounts are 3/4 to 1" shorter then yours (i know for a fact they are shorter then 280z's) this will lower your ride hight without screwing with suspension strength or reliability. the strut mount insulators are the top pieces that hold the spring down and mount to the top of the strut insert (shock) and mount the whole strut to your car. they have 3 studs at the top of the them and look like the one in the picture. the picture shows how smaller they are. left is 240z right is 260/280z

:bulb:Hey. Im new to the forum (post wise) ive read a lot of stuff on here over the last year, never had to post until now . So hello, Anyways. i have an issue with my 78 280z l28 (cold air intake, 2.25 exhaust glasspack muffler) 5 speed (straight gears). It is an arizona car and i need to pass emissions here so i can get my plates and registration. I can get the car to run great under a load and WOT with no miss or studdering. but my issue is idle. It has a rough idle. clearly a miss and rich exhaust. Ive taken it to emissions twice. The first time i took it was bone stock. no cold air intake, no exhaust. nothing done to it. and it passed everything within spec at the load speeds. BUT didnt pass at idle. it failed only with high hydrocarbons. pass is around 250 and it was putting out 890. so did a full tune up. plugs 45 degree gap, wires, cap, roter, cold air intake because my boots were broken and leaking air after the AFM. and 2.25 inch exhaust same cat (exhaust guy said it was still good) and same muffler (glasspack). did some tinkering with timing (which i cant get the white mark on the pulley to show up on the scale on the block so i assume the timing chain jumped, stretched, or someone did something wrong in a repair) and replaced one of the coolent temp sensor connectors (one closer to driver side) because it was totally destroyed. also tinkered with that big screw that is on the throttle body that lowers or raises the idle (also seams to make it idle smoother the higher the idle is, more rough the lower the idle is, its at about 1200rpms right now for the smoothest idle.. still has a miss and rich exhaust) i took it back to test again and it failed WORSE. passed everything under a load just like last time, but at idle instead of it failing at 890 PPM's HC it failed at 1300 PPM's. Please help me with any suggestons. i dont have a lot of tools or work space, and not a lot of money to take it to a mechanic.. if there is something i did wrong, or something i missed that is easy to check or needs a cheap tool to fix, adjust, or anything please let me know. I have to get this thing passed by the 16th or i cant drive it! and its my only vehicle.. Thanks in advance!!!!