motorman7

Here is a pic of the original un-restored heat shield on my 3/70 prior to the refresh. It's looking pretty shiny for a 40+ year old piece of metal.

Boy, I need some too. Curious to see what final price will be for the set of 5. Will have to monitor.

Original clutch disc from my 3/70 240Z and the replacement disc. Original disc shown has about 95K miles on it. Rich

Beautiful car! Thanks for posting the pics. Rich

Looks great, can we get a motor pic

Here are a couple that look pretty original.....pricey though https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/5383310645.html

Yes, getting it back on the road is definitely a top priority. Will be nice to see your car running again. And definitely, save everything you remove. Best regards, Rich PS: I am a mech engineer also....though much older. It definitely helps with the rebuilds.

Hi Dave, Your car is absolutely amazing! The interior and motor look exceptional. I am sure the underside looks just as nice given the battery tray picture. The color is great as well and seems to need just a bit of touch-up. I have to be honest though, I am for the most part a purist, and have a difficult time understanding why you would modify such an original car. A 240Z in such original condition as your car is quite rare, and thus pretty valuable. As one of the other guys mentioned earlier on your thread, he thought you may have paid up to $20K for the vehicle. I agree, looks like you got a really great deal. However, assuming you make the changes you have outlined, your amazing Z will be like most of the other Z’s out there, modified engine and trans, aftermarket parts, etc. Those are a dime a dozen and can be easily obtained for $10K or less (I have one of those by the way so nothing wrong with that, it’s my beater) If you were you to keep the car original and just clean up the engine bay, I think that would be a much better decision as it would make the final product much more valuable and rare. Probably cheaper as well. I was fortunate to get my dad’s original 1970 240Z which is in similar condition to yours. I cleaned up the engine bay (which I even question now whether I should have done that), but the result is that I now have Z that is very original and worth quite a bit. I have been offered over $40K for the car and have it insured for more. Whenever I bring it to shows, people are amazed at how original the car is. Yes, it has some minor touched up scratches and decaying 45 year old rubber molding, but that is what makes the car special. I believe yours would be the same. Anyway, just had to throw that out there as an option. I realize we all have our own dreams of what our ideal car will be. I just wanted to provide a different point of view as a long time original Z lover. Just my thoughts. Below are several of my 240Z threads for reference. There may be some info there that is useful as a lot of the members have provided support and advice during the builds. Best regards, Rich 1970 240Z http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/32197-1970-z-refreshbiting-the-bullet/#comment-286693 1973 260Z: Kicking myself daily for selling this one. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/37331-1973-240z-refreshtoration-%C3%A2%E2%82%AC%E2%80%9C-901-silver/?page=1 1971 240Z Yellow daily driver http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/35102-lets-paint-it-yellow/?page=1 1971 Z: Current project http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/47865-lucky-71-240z/?page=1

Attached are pics of my original 4/70 motor complete with factory drips. Attached is the repaint with paint from Classic Datsun Motorsport. I think it is a very good match.

Here are a couple shots. Let me know if this is what you are looking for. Needs a bit of clean-up but not bad for 97K miles.

I have lots of pics of the car. Just let me know what you would like to see, and I can post them. Here are a few body shots.

Wow, amazing work on everything. 26-th is correct on color and an amazing source of info. Great to see all of the pics. Attached is the motor from my 4/70 Z for reference.

I am surprised that a 1/70 would have an evap tank. I am pretty sure that my 3/70 240Z does not have an evap tank. I will double check when I get home tonight, but I do not think the panel in my 70 even has a 'bump' for the evap tank.

The degreaser is for greasy or oily bolts. I usually clean the oily bolts in thinner, let them dry, then do the wire wheel. You don't want to get your wire wheel oily or dirty. After the wire wheel and orange wheel finish, I acid bath for 15 mins, then plate for 10-15 mins. I spray rinse with RO water after the zinc plating then blue dip for 30 sec, yellow dip for ~2mins or so. After the yellow dip, I rinse in bucket of warm water for 15 secs then usually blow dry with high heat (yes, my wife's old hair dryer) till dry. This process works very well for me.

Blue did a nice write up once on the entire process. I am having some dificulty finding that thread. Also, I never use the SP degreaser...I have a couple bags you can have. I live by the wire wheel and the orange fiber wheel that Caswell provides in the kit. Also, after the zince plate operation, don't forget to rinse clean and do a quick (30 sec) 'blue' zinc dip before the yellow zinc. The blue zinc helps the yellow to stick and gives the rainbow effect.

The 'Triplettes': My garage needed a major clean, plus I got a free HazMat cabinet, so I spent the morning cleaning the garage and organizing. I parked the Datsuns in the driveway just for fun. The next door neighbor came out and said,"oh, you have the Triplettes out". I thought it was funny so I think it will stick, now referring to them as the triplettes (although the yellow one is a '71, so not really triplettes. Of course the '70s are fraternal). If you look closely you can see the fourth one. Not sure what I will call them when that one is finished. Rich

Wow, VIN is close to mine....I'm 02614

I think in the past I would have made the same statement. I do think a bit differently now. Imagine my surprise when I heard that one of the Datsun Roadsters that sold for over $50K has a dash cap. That in my opinion would be a much greater 'sin' than the items noted above. So, I am much more careful to pass judgement on price now a days. In my opinion, the more this sells for the better. I did want to respond to the sellers statement that I would be hard pressed to find a better example, but I will keep quiet.

My bad, Sorry. It's this starvation diet that is making me irritable. I really need a carne asada burrito.

Much more is ‘incorrect’ beyond just the luggage straps. Wrong fan, no radio, wrong choke knob, screws missing from door panels, Air cleaner should probably not have decals, seats are aftermarket material, hose clamps should be round head-not hex and yellow plate (as mentioned). Anyway, I hate to pick at such a beautiful car, and silver has to be my favorite early color. I’d take the car in a minute if I had the room and the cash. I hope it goes for a nice price. Boy, I love that silver paint.

I'll be there.....bringing the roadster this time.

Hi Kats, It was great meeting you also (It is very cool when you finally get to meet some of the people on the thread here). And, your car is beautiful....I love that motor. I also love the lockwire on the bolts. Haven't seen that since my Aerospace days. Thanks for coming out and bringing your car. It was a great addition to the show. Best regards, Rich

Here is the youtube video of the Racelegal Nite for the convention...very cool. 27th Annual Z car Convention AT Racelegal.com 8-8-2014 - YouTube Also, after seeing Kats motor, I am not sure if I would want to fly on his 777. I get the impression he might try and take-off with the thrust reversers on. You may want to ask him why

Here are a couple. Will try and post more when I get some time. Been crazy busy. I did get to meet Mike B though. That was great.