JohnnyO

If so, here you go.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1969-Datsun-240z-low-300-vin-number-and-parts-car_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250338179263QQitemZ250338179263QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

I walked into a Carquest last week and asked them for PPG in Datsun 920 and the guy whipped up a small can for me to sample in about 5 minutes. The sample matched pretty good under my hatch carpet but was a little "browner". All in all I'd have to say it was a good match considering the car is 40 years old.

Any recent updates?

I'll let you know when I hear back. I asked him if he new he didnt really have a matching set and pointed out the later series 1 cap.

He's being sneaky..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-240-Z-HUBCAPS-HUBCAP-1970-1971-TYPE-I_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a4Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem300278501110QQitemZ300278501110QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I already sent him a question about it. Let's see how he responds.

Nice lot but he's looking for $2500 cash and probably a local pickup. Seems a little steep.

Is that your collection Steve?

I found this last week while searching the net. The VIN # doesn't have the 3 in it. http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C52351/ He has it painted like a 78 Corvette pace car. I think the guy got the vin wrong. And why is he advertising in England? John

I have seen heat cause this problem in fuel lines. Basically the fuel is evaporating in the line and causing intermittent sputtering.

True......

Thanks for the insight Garagegoon. In my case I am just learning how to blast (seems like common sense is the most necessary thing to have) and have not used chemical strippers to strip something as large as a car ever. So it is a learning experience for me all the way around. I would imagine that if not done properly, by an experienced person, chemical strippers could lie in wait if not thoroughly "neutralized" prior to painting.

VERY good point for anybody that may stumble onto this thread. Thanks Arne.

Yes, that's what I figured on your previous advice to me. I hit it with coal slag at 80 psi and took my time. This pressure, combined with some previously used slag, peeled the first layer (orange) off gently and is now gently blasting away the second layer (white). I am about 25% done. Looking at the next few posts I probably could have hit it with stripper or sanded it down but I'm not smart enough to take the easy way out (stripper) and I really wanted it to be painted fresh from bare metal. Thanks for all the tips. I will post pictures when done.

Yes, I found Rustoleum Antique White to be an almost exact match. It is a gloss finish as my original color appeared to be gloss. Thanks for the tip.

UPDATE: I used some pure acetone to pull the cheap enamel off the cream and now have a nice sample to choose the color from. Thanks for the tips everyone. I will post before and after pictures here.

I am going to "peel back" the orange and see if I can get it color matched. I will let you guys know the result. John, I will post pictures but am not sure of the correct media. I would guess that the blades of the fan are made of something like galvanized steel and don't know how fragile that would be. I have coal slag and glass beads. Any recommendations? John

Thanks Arne. That is very similar to what I see when I sand off the orange in the thin areas. I wonder if I could find something similar in a rattle can? Well, I guess I will see if I get another response that has an "exact" color, if not, I will be shopping at 8 tomorrow. Thanks, John

Sorry, I should have been more specific. It is a metal fan from an early series 1. I can clearly see the white-ish paint under the poorly painted orange. I am getting ready to blast and prime this tomorrow and was wondering what color to finish it with. John

The PO had painted the cooling fan in my car competition orange. I know the original color was a shade of white. Does anybody know the exact shade of white? TIA, John

Well it sounds like you are going to take the plunge. I have one recomendation that I dont think I have seen yet in this thread: Spend $25.00 and by Wick Humble's How to Restore your Datsun Z-Car. You can get it from Amazon. One of the first things he says is don't throw anything away until you have the "exact" replacement for it. I have been following this rule for the last 2 months as I "collect" parts to restore my baby. Even then, I find it hard to part with the original parts, it's like throwing out a piece of yourself. He also takes you through the restoration process (minus engine work) step by step. Now the book is dated but so is your vehicle. So, if you can get past the poorly lit photos, some older techniques and some dry humor you will find it an invaluable asset. Then again, if Carl ever writes a book I would ditch the Wick and purchase the Carl..... Just my opinion. John

Thanks. We will keep an eye out for him.

Does it look like this? http://www.zhome.com/History/10thAnniv.htm

I am amazed at the amount of information this site provides. As I move forward with my restoration you guys (and gals if appropriate) bring more "issues" to light than I could have imagined. I am quickly learning that when restoring a 40 year old car that isn't branded Chevy or Ford you run into challenges every step of the way from finding the correct paint color to getting performance tires for a 4.5" rim not to mention getting period correct parts. Thank you all for all your contributions. I hope to be able to help out someday too, until then, I will learn from the masters.

I'll be visiting a seller next weekend who says he has a few sets of wheels. He told me they were "early" 240. I am looking for 01/70 for a date stamp. If I see 73 I will post back.

Thanks Mike. I just happen to have some muratic acid in the garage that I used for concrete cleaning this past summer. I think I will have a go at it tomorrow with a spare lens cover I have sitting around.