JohnnyO

I think it depends on the section. Tabco at the link below lists most panels as 240, 260 & 280. They make the panels that some other sites sell. http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm They may ship worldwide too. The prices on the website are not correct. Add about $20.00 to each part. Hope that helps.

Steven, I've seen this one a dozen times and I always read it to the end and laugh. Thanks again. P.S., I sure wish you would add a Datsun to the list. Just seems wierd seeing your sig without one...

Good Luck on the dyno tomorrow.

Steve, Yeah, I've seen quite a few nice ones in the bay area of California. I actually got mine from San Jose. Sight unseen off of craigslist. Sent the guy 200 to hold it and picked it up 2 weeks later. A little risky but I asked the right questions and didnt send money until I was comfortable. I'd have to say that he was more uncomfortable with me being long distance than I was with not seeing the car. I just knew it was the right car. I got a 1 owner car with every reciept from day 1, no real surprises during stripdown most parts were there, dash is a 72, replaced in 84, original wheels, D caps, radio and emblems were all stolen in 88. He replaced the wheels with enkis and michelins and never drove it again. The tires had the new tire sticker on the tread still when I picked it up in 2008. It was owned by a Japanese fellow named Kenoshi Itayama. According to his family he cherished the car. I had to convince the family that I was the right person to buy the car. I promised I would get it back to new. I'm almost done. John

Steve, He'd probably take the 2K and if you knew welding it it would sweeten the deal. I know of a local Series 1 (05/70) that I can get for $600 tomorrow. I would say that based on the description in WA the one here is in about the same condition. I am thinking about buying it for the drivers side door hinge and exhaust down pipe, the rest would get parted out. Almost all original parts on it including alternator, SUs, E31, Vertical defrost, clear glass, original spare tire (rim is rusted to all hell, not sure if tire is shot), etc. The problem I see here is that experienced Z restorers probably won't buy it. It will probably be an anxious newby that would end up biting off more than they could chew. If you want the Z up here I can line it up. You are only about 15 hours away. Only problem is I-80 through Nebraska has to be the worst drive in the country.

Seems a little much to me. I paid $1800 for #1366 with almost no rust (found 4 pinholes on the driver's side dogleg during frame off, replaced both sides just to be safe). I've got at least $12,000 into it and quite a bit more to purchase to make it perfect. Not sure you could restore it and "turn a profit" but it would be a shame to see it rust away or get parted out. I guess what I am say is there are better out there, just keep looking.

8 Track - Now that's just funny.

Larry, Thanks for the tip. I might give it a shot. One of the 2 runs I noticed are under where the Master Cylinder goes so it won't be noticable when the car is assembled but I want it perfect. It is single stage paint that has been curing for about 10 days now. Might still be soft. I am pretty sure that the run is in the top coat not the surfacer. As stated above, I do have enough SS to repaint the entire engine bay if needed. Thanks again. John

I have your older sister here, #1366. She wears 920 Gold and she's getting a facelift now but should be ready by summer. Welcome to the board, pictures please. John

Merry Christmas all. Take care, John

I never bought it. I figured no replies on it there must be no interest. John

Thanks Ron, That is exactly the what I needed to know. I was pretty sure that it could be done just wasnt sure how. Appreciate the help. Merry Christmas... John

I had hosting with godaddy for my site and let the hosting lapse intentionally. If he renewed his domain name with them chances are good that his email will still work. My email still works and I didnt renew my hosting package.

Just brought the shell back home after getting the body work done and engine bay sprayed in single stage and noticed a couple of small runs. I won't be bringing the car back to get topcoated until March and wanted to address the runs before I drop the motor back in. Can I just sand these runs down and recoat with single stage or is there more to it? What grit should I use? Should they be wet sanded then dried with a heat gun? If I repaint it is there a posibility of it wrinkling on me? I do have enough paint to spray the entire engine bay a few times over. Any pro's out there that can offer some advice? TIA, John

Yes, that is exactly what I found. I also confirmed this with Carl and Terry. #1366 had black between the steel and paint in the wheel wells, but not the floor boards. John

My hardest part? Series 1 Lower drivers side door hinge. Ugh! Mine has a busted spring retaining mechanism. I am considering purchasing a complete 5/70 series 1 just to get the hinge. Anyone need parts?

I was quoted $350.00 each (front and back) complete in show chrome with some ding removal. This was from a reputable shop in St. Paul MN. I do not know what process they used but was referred by my father in law who had his 63 Chevy Impala rechromed by this shop. He wins best in class at nearly every show he attends and swears it's because of the chrome job. I will be ready (financially) for chrome in April. I will let you know how it turns out. Till then, it's paint and bushing work.

It looks like he didn't renew his hosting package. Maybe someone has an email address or phone number they could post here.

I recently stripped my car to bare metal. What I found under the floor pans and in the wheel wells was that it had a coat of thin black undercoating but it looked more like black paint. On top of that was zinc oxide primer then light grey surfacer then the finish coat of 920 applied kind of thin but enough to hold up for 39 years. I asked this question a while back in a paint thread I started and I think I received a reply confirming what I had found and that it was typical. Hope that helps.

Did you purchase "lowering" springs and struts?

Yeah, I thought that or maybe he was eating rice in the car and hit a speed bumpLOL

I bet he bought the Z with the second one. 3 1/2 # @ wholesale prices of $800/# = $2800 give or take. About going rate for a running project. Not that I would know.....

I found change, a single eyeglass lens, and lots of dried up rice. Even found some under the console and behind the dash. I thought the rice find was odd.

Gnosez, When I checked out your site I guess I didnt see the full rail. Damn, I feel like an idiot now. I really wanted to replace the entire rail while he was under there. John

Steve, they look great. I see why you were concerned with Charlies not being long enough. I don't think his were intended to go that far up but you made them work very nicely. Wish I had those skills. Did you replace those rails and pans after the top side was completed? John