overdrivex

i dont know how much those are worth in denver. thats something you need to research for your self. if theres nothing wrong with the car and you have to ask than you probably dont even want the car. who cares what anyone else thinks about the car your the one thats going to drive it.

with mine i took brass brush and cleaned it out than went over it with rust converter. the brush on kind.

welcome to the forums. but first and foremost we must see picture .lets see that Z. pictures on this forums are like boobs you just gotta see them for yourself.

Welcome to the forums. and on a side note hows the windshield wiper linkage and motor on the parts car you have =D. willing to sell them to me?

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

im still curious what the original poster decided .im pretty sure some of you would agree just because he hasn't posted here doesn't mean he didn't get it. this guy is in hawaii. telling him you can find z's for 300-500 bux in better condition on the continent america is not helping his current situation. it probably cost 300-500 bux just to put it into a shipping container and to bring it to port. not including the cost of getting it to a port in the continent america that goes to hawaii. i still wonder whats is considered a good deal in hawaii for this car and what he based it on. he never replayed after he posted the pictures.

i guess check every piece of electronic that is associated with rpm readings. this just a random shot in the dark, but do you have another rpm gauge to test out? im pretty sure there is probably some kind of module that translates the sensor readings into rpm maybe that could be causing it?

the z suspension doesnt work like that. you cant simply adjust how far forward or back the wheel sits. he must have done something else wrong. but your going to need to be more detailed. what size tire is in the front right? what did he do? did he change out bushings? did he remove any control arm parts?

seems like you already set your mind on selling it. atleast thats what it sounds like from reading your first post. if your gonna get any where near that price get ready to dish out some cash money to advertise it with as many widely known private car sales ad. in all honesty id avoid ebay 60bux and only use as last resort. for 60bux you better off with autotrader and cars.com which allow your ad to run much much longer.

welcome. soo... are you incompatible with most drivers and crash on occasion?? sorry i couldnt resist yes i know im a nerd. anywho welcome and nice to finally meet you.

sometime if the master clutch cyl doesnt fully disengage it wont let fluid into the system so the reservoir can be full but no flued in the system.

when i saw the thumbnail i was thinking what the heck is wrong with the front of the car. than when i supersized :eek:that bumper looks huge in the picture. it must way a ton looks like he used 3inch pipe for the bumper...

will the trans go into gear when the car is off? did you bother to check to see if any fluid is getting to the slave cyl.? slave cyc should be able to gravity bleed so should haev fluid comming out if you losen the bleeder. also this was an issue i had with a subaru once if the shifter bushing is out it will feel like its shifting even though it wasnt.

congrats. owning a z is definitely an obsession. i spend almost all of my free time working n my Z. i havent cut my hair in 2mnths cause i have a choice. go spend a total of an hr to get a hair cut or spend an extra hr working on the z. guess who wins all the time . post pics when you get a chance.

what in the world were you searching to find this. reminds me of dr. reed from fantastic 4

they pop up on ebay from time to time. just keep an eye out

figured i use the old fuel rails as my vacuum lines for my carbs/manifold/and carbon filter setup. mabe fixitman can chime in on this question. what did you hook the purge line on the carbon filter to in your carb setup?

some new engine bay pics

anyone? according to the fsm there shouldnt be two black wires comming out of this harness to the alternator. i already have the black wire and the white/red connected. i cant seem to figure out where this second black wire goes.

my heads dont have a spot for mechanical pump. would put the n47 head i have on but i know for a fact that the longblock in the car works great. while he longblock with the n47 are questionable. but none the less im going with dellorto manufactures recommendation. since im in houston i might see about getting a booster pump because of the hot humid conditions here. but... im going to wait and see if its even a issue before i start adding unnecessary items.

i wanted to run a pressure gauge in line since the holly doesnt have one already. i gues the best place to put the guage would be right before the last carb inline to insure that im getting 3psi to the last carb too?

you know i forgot all about summitracing thnx

since i wont have a return would this FPR work for me? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan-Racing-Universal-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Blue_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem310133827524QQitemZ310133827524QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories it say feul injection only but seems like all of the FPR i find say FI only.

the guy i bought them from said i should run setup #1 with a lower pressure fuel pump and a FPR that can be set to 3psi. some sources ive found that use setup #1 say the same thing. i tried sourcing a 3rd T fuel bonjo for setup #2 with no luck . i email dellorto in UK and its gonna cost $80shipped 7-21days just for that one bonjo. that's almost half the price of one used carb. i also said i wanted to run setup #2 in the email and said it would be ideal setup. they also recommended setup#1 with a low pressure pump 3-7psi and a fpr adjustable to 3psi. i guess thats why the setup only comes with two T's cause this how they expect you to run them. i ask my uncle which use to be a mechanic he said a fuel injection fuel pump would put out too much pressure for a carburetor setup and would put to much stress on fuel system/line. he also said return line is important because it keeps fuel moving and doesnt allow the fuel to get to hot when it pools in the reservoir. so now im considering running setup one to save 80bux and in hopes to not have to wait 7-21 business days just to get the car running. and on top of that even the manufacture recommends setup #1 just to be clear its a throw between ideal setup and recommended setup from manufacture..

yeah agree with all that was said. if the car indeed was a good running car before parked you should try and get it running. if i was a potential buyer and you told me that this car had all this stuff replaced and it was running good, but sat unmoved for 1.5 yrs. i would question the truth behind what you were saying. just my thought. wouldnt you think the same?