EverRude

Have a early 71 240. The interior has been removed. No carpet or vinyl installed. Im a bit confused as to what interior kit I should buy. I assume I can do whatever I want but I like the vinyl but was vinyl and carpet used at same time from factory? Thanks. Also missing some if the panels around the rear deck that hide quarter wells and such. Any relatively cheap options for replacing those?

Nope. And I wouldnt doubt it. But to be quite honest I really just wanted to replace the pump. If the pressure still seems wonky I'll do the sender. If that doesn't do it I will need to pull pan and clean pickup. Thinking about putting in some engine flush treatment once I have pressure. What do you think of this type product?

Quick update. Waiting for new oil pump before I run her anymore. So this afternoon I used my power washer to hit the chassis and knock some of the caked on old dirt and grease all over everything. Looks better but more importantly in the future it wont fall in my eyes and mouth Not too mention there were way too many spider webs for comfort. Hate those things and we got some nasty ones here in the south.

Very cool. Between this forum and the vintage mustang forum I am set learning from others successes and mistakes.

Oh I wanted to mention. While it was idling I check guages. Tach seems fine. Amp meter jumps around. Fuel guages not working. The one that scared me was the oil guages. Was low then I saw it build up. Then it started dropping back down to near zero. So I shut it down. The oil but did look gummy and old when I had it off before. Wouldn't surprise me if it failed. So I ordered a new one. I expect to change oil a couple of times over next week. The engine has alot of sludge. May go with some thin viscosity high detergent stuff for next change. What would y'all recommend as good oil for an old stock motor to run normally after she on the road? Btw using my phone for some of these posts. Sometimes the auto correct uses some strange words to correct my spelling. Try to read in context :-) '

Next step is setting timing properly now that she is at timed at tdc properly. Trouble is my timing lights don't seem to work. Must be doing something wrong. Inductive type timing light. Two clamps for power (I put them on battery) and a clamp for spark plug wire ( I put that on number 1 wire). Am I doing something wrong. Should be better than this but its been years since I had to set timing.

I thank you guys for your support. Quick update. When I made last post it came to me that I had not checked points gap. Went out there about 20 min after making post and did just that. She fired right up again. This time no choke was needed and she had a choppy idle at around 2000 rpm. Couple of mini-backfires. But I didn't have to fight to keep her alive. So real progress. Yay...

I agree Bruce. Once it's idling more or less on it's own and I can hopefully drive her around the block, I'll eliminate alot of the jerry rigging that has been done to this car. For an update. I did alot of searching. Seems the best thing to start with for tuning these cars is the valve lash. So I went through setting the intakes at .010 and exhaust at .012. Cold obviously since she wont run. Atleast 7 of the valves had no lash at all. None. Of the remaining ones maybe 2 were close. So now with the valves set I decided to check for the main timing marks with the #1 at TDC. With #1 cam lobes making an upward "V" and both valves closed and the piston on the compression stroke I checked the rotor. It was somewhere around the #3 piston. Pulled the distributor and looked at the shaft. It's supposed to be pointed at around 11:25. It was more like 9:25. So I pulled the oil pump and repositioned the shaft a couple teeth to put it at 11:25. Reassembled everything and tried to start her. She fired right up. Idled VERY roughly and required the choke and some pedal to stay running. Couple small backfires but she idled. I got out and tried to keep her running under the hood while looking things over and she died. Couldnt start her back up. I assume someone has really screwed this thing up and now I am trying to fix all that just to get back to a point I can really troubleshoot the car an not PO's crappy work and neglected maintenance. Going to set timing to zero on distributor but I am certain at this point new plugs, wires and cap/rotor would be helpful. They need replacing anyways so it wont hurt. I'm sure I need to set points now as well. Just though of that just now actually. Shoulda check the gap and dwell after I set the disto shaft correctly. Once I know I have solid spark at the right time and I can working with the carbs. This has always been the worst and best part of working on old cars. Hope I live through it. Oh and I broke a sway bar bolt trying to remove the bar so I could drop the oil pump. Now I have another fun job. Getting a broken rusty bolt out of a frame. Been a really great day.

Well I did get that new pump. Replaced lines and added prefilter to pump. Didn't need to do anything to restrict return line because that return is tiny. Too tiny IMO. Anyways I now have 3psi pressure at the carbs according to the inline guage. The car started for a second then died. Subsequent attempts has it sputtering trying to start and one loud backfire at exhaust. Any guesses? The distributer cap was corroded and well as rotor cap. Cleaned them up to see if there was any improvement. Nothing noticeable. Dont want to simply throw parts at it. Sure I'll be replacing those and the plugs (autolite 63's) soon but right now I suspect it's more than that. I noticed the number 6 plug wire has a cut in it. Seems intact but definitely cut through insulation. I've had cars run with far worse caps, plugs, wires...etc. When starting one of these cars how long should the choke be on? Outside temp is around 65f now. Is it possible to flood the engine with too much gas buy using choke too long? Would that cause the backfire? Letting it sit now just in case. I'll try again in 30 min or so. That other fuel pump was a holley. Was so dirty I couldnt read the label till I got it off and cleaned it. The new one is much much quieter anyways. Much prefer it. I'll keep the holley for potential future upgrades. I'll post some pics in a bit. Meanwhile if you have anything I haven't thought of that would cause that sputtering attempt to start let me know please. Going to research that choke adjustment like Travel'n Man suggested. I may have it wrong and choke isn't coming off at all. Here's some pics...

There is a guage inline between the regulator outlet and carbs inlet. One of those liquid filled dial guages. 0-15 psi I think. Anyways with the regulator failing the carbs can see full pump outlet pressure. The guage spiked to like 12 psi before I could shut it off. This is after I fiddled with it trying to adjust pressure down. BTW for that particular regulator. Down on pressure means up on adjustment screw. Not good to go the other way. Heh. The pump is clearly far to high pressure to attempt using without a regulator. In fact, having delt with this type pump before on my previous Z purchase I am fairly certain it is an injected Z pump that has been installed. Here's a picture of the fuel pump that is installed.

Going to buy a universal pump from O'reilly's this morning when they finally open. (this one: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BTF0/BE8016S.oap?pt=C0401&ppt=C0025 ) This should allow me to have fuel pressure where I need it and replace the faulty holley regulator with a tee connector. Probably have the tee have different size ports for the fuel lines to build in a pressure to carb with a free flow back to tank return. Like (rough numbers here just for illustration) 5/16 intlet to tee from pump, 5/16 outlet to carbs and a 1/4 outlet to return. Hoping that will cause a natural unretricted flow to carbs for when they need the fuel. When they don't need all that fuel the pressure and extra fuel will bleed back to the tank. Sound plausable? Sound ok in my head but so have many past utterly braindead ideas I've had Once the car will run well enough to drive and I know there's nothing that will require all my cash to do. I am considering ordering the whole ztherapy carb setup. Expensive but I have no clue what the condition of the carbs are and what has been done to them over the years. Found 2 receipts in the stack of paperwork I was given that simply stated "Carb tuning $50." Did it work? Were any parts replaced? And the most recent one was like 8 years ago. Which means someone undoubtly has messed with them atleast alittle since then. Getting the Ztherapy setup will allow me to remove carbs almost entirely from the long list of trouble shotting steps I will undoubtedly be trying over the next for weeks to "tune" this car. But ofcourse if I drive her and realize there are other issues that will require money and immediate attention I will settle for a rebuild kit and dvd. But ztherapy is already on my list of people to call soon.

HLS30-19889 Build Date 01/71 Ok I soaked piston bores in ATF over night. Changed oil this afternoon and drained gas tank. Man that stuff smelled funky. Replaced most fuel lines. It has a electric fuel pump hard wired to a switch on dash. Used it to flush the system. Changed fuel filter twice. Cleaned plugs and reinstalled. Drained coolant in rad and refilled. Will flush it again later. Pulled valve cover and inspected. Looked fine to me but definitely dry. Poured fresh oil all over. Rear passenger side of valve cover was leaking. There was a wrong size screw in there. Wasn't even tight and way too short. For the time being I have a correct size bolt from Lowes to hold the cover down tight. Gasket looked great. Checked out timing chain as well. Looked good. Not obviously worn and maybe an 1/8" of slack when I pressed on it. Seems tight to me. Sound ok to y'all? Flushed and bled the clutch hydraulics. Slave looks brand new but master is missing the proper cap. Looks like a cap from a bottle of antifreeze on there now. The clutch works again. Pedal just went to floor before. The brakes I bled at master but still need to do the wheels. Where are bleed ports on calipers exactly? Nevermind I'll figure it out The rear master cylinder resevoir was empty. Which does it supply? Front or rear brakes? I had to connect the choke cables. The screws holding the cables at carbs were missing. Found right size screws at Lowes and used them. Chokes work now. Also despite a perfectly good stock air box there was no air filter installed. I need one of those. No local supply for them. Few quirks I found that will need to be fixed. Fuel vent from tank to the bottle inside is disconnected and capped off. It's too short to reconnect. What does it do exactly? The fuel pump I mentioned. It's a problem. He used a holley regulator (this one http://www.holley.com/12-804.asp ) and it's not regulating. Too much pressure to carbs and they over flow. There is a return line piped back to tank though. Guessing it's a early 280 tank? Tried to adjust it. That was mistake. Leaks like a seive and still just keeps pumping fuel at 9psi or so. Yeah they did put a fuel pressure guage on the fuel piping. Seems to work pretty well. There is an electric radiator fan. It's hardwired to a switch at dash as well. Will get a real fan controller for that eventually but it'll suffice for now. Driver's seat has no screws on the back side. Just the 2 front ones. I cranked her this afternoon. She fired right up but the fuel issue prevent me from being able to run it. I do have the original L24 engine with E88 head. The fuel pump mount has a cover. I'm assuming someone decided to switch to an electric pump. How much will I have to do to switch back to mechanical? Whole reason I wanted a 240 was less electrical crap to deal with and a hacked in fuel pump is not something I want to really deal with. So I'm guessing I need a new mechanical fuel pump. What about fuel lines at engine. Was there a hard line fuel rail removed or something? Is there a sourse for those? Anyways thats the status so far. Any advice on what I've accomplished and discovered so far?

Dothan

Thanks for response. Must remember to make better use of search function

Just bought a 240z that's been sitting outside for the last 3 years. Ran when parked but hasn't ran since. I'm guessing changing oil. Pulling plugs and squirting oil in there. Best type to use for cylinder bores? Think I'll drain the coolant and refill. Also the gas tank. Car has 4 screw round top SU carbs ,as it should, so is there anything I should do to prepare them before even attempting to start the car? What else should I do before I even turn her over for the first time? Thanks