skunkteeth

Im no expert, but it looks like the distributor/rotor is not installed correctled. The #1 position is usually 180 degrees from where you have it.

Oops ignore that first sentence I copied that from another forum where I also posted this. Are the pumps at blackdragon of good quality? And no negatives to going to a turbo pump?

I am not the person with the 280z at the village, I live at the suites near the gym. So I found what was wrong. Pulled the distributor...no problems with it rotating. Pulled the oil pump and spindle, the oil pump would not turn. I open it up and well lookey there. I see a little piece of metal, looks like a spring coil. Take the valve and spring out and yep, the spring broke which tore the pump apart.

My 76 Datsun 280z was running fine. I was driving out of the parking lot and I heard an odd clicking sound...then it stalled. It is getting fuel when cranked(i can smell it). I checked and the coil is sparking to the distributor. I can not see spark getting out of the plug wires, and when cranking the distributor the point moves about 1/2" and then stops turning. Should the distributor be spinning a full 360 degrees when cranking? The cap is new, and the point looks new also. Also the battery is charged, jumping didnt help. Alternator is new also.

Can you spray it with chrome type spray paint? Maybe Krylon Fusion for plastics?

WOW, tons of great info. When I get my car back from the mechanic (it might need a head rebuild) I will look into the relay and the parking brake switch itself. Thanks a lot.

So I upgraded my alternator in my 280z to the 105amp from ZSpecialties. After installing it, the Brake warning light is constantly on. I presume this is from the T connector no longer being used. Which wire (white/black or yellow) should I hook back up? The white/black did nothing when hooked up, but when I hooked up the yellow to 12v the light went off then came back on. Is there a problem somewhere else in the Brake warning relay? It did not happen until the alternator was changed. Thanks

Alright cool, I was just wondering how it will hold up in the long run

This is awesome, im going to be refinishing a dash I picked up off ebay. For a final coat, has anyone tried a UV resistant coating? I found this but I will have to experiment on how it looks http://www.krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=8&productid=1818&content=product_details

Sure, I will post one as soon as it is out of the shop getting the head rebuilt

For my Datsun horn button, I bought some cheap button off of ebay for 10 bucks, then printed the datsun logo with quality photo paper and replaced the original logo. Easy and cheap, and looks great

Well the engine has been recently rebuilt and the PO said that the fuel lines are all new (which they look new) and the fuel tank was cleaned out. Alot of it has been worked on, it just has a couple little things to be done. I will check the AAR tomorrow. Thanks

Interesting mileage mgood, I always thought these cars got around 20-25. An update on the idle: This morning when I started the car, it was at about 600 RPM idle running rough, the gauge was bouncing up and down. I tried to adjust the idle speed up but nothing happened. After I actually pushed down on the throttle rod in the engine compartment the idle seemed to shoot back up to 1200 RPM, and thats where it stayed even when I was at work. Any ideas?

Hello everyone, I just got my 76 280z and I am having a couple of problems. It is a L28 with 5 speed, ac, and electric ignition. The valves were recently adjusted and the injectors are new. The AFM has also been recently rebuilt and I just checked it and everything looks good. The first problem is the gas mileage. I am only getting about 16 MPG driving very easily. It smells like it is running rich and there is soot on the bumper near the tail pipe. I have checked most of the connections but I still need to clean the water temperature sensor. Should I remove the thermostat? The second problem is the idle speed. In the morning when it is a little cold (southern california cold...) the idle speed is about 600-700 RPM's and is pretty rough. After I get to work and it is warmed up the idle is about 1200-1300 RPM's. I am guessing this is because of non metered air getting into the system. I checked the EGR and it is not sticking. The hose between the AFM and intake looks good, but I noticed a little metal loop inside, is this from when it is molded? I tried adjust the idle tonight. I tapped the gas and it shot from a rough 600-700 to 1200. I tried adjusting it down and it wouldnt move much. I looked over the vacuum lines and didnt see any cracks. Third, when going at highway speeds the voltage gauge will bounce up to 16 and down to 12 when it is usually a stable 14. Do I need a new alternator? I have the EFI bible and FSM, I am going to start the troubleshooting it lists tomorrow. It says to check the throttle plate and BCCD valve. Any tips on removing these? This is my daily driver so most large work occurs on weekends. Thanks, any help is appreciated.