Bruce Palmer

We grudginly sell reconditioned air cleaners but the cost of doing them vs the $300 we charge still doesn't make it a worthwhile venture. The cost of getting one straightened, cleaned of oil so the BC/CC will stick, try and find gaskets etc. just makes building carbs a lot more attractive. The customer in question is doing a flat top conversion and I suggested he go for an earlier round mouth aircleaner to match up to his soon to be round mouth carbs. The flat top aircleaner is just about as attractive as everything else flat top, plus has the square mouth to the carb.

Yep, the first one with the carbs was a smoking deal, while the second, without the attaching hardware might make a geranium planter.

Our customer didn't get the ebay aircleaner so he is still looking for one.

Steve says the ever-illusive air cleaner seals still are. He has come up with none since you and he talked. Sounds like it's time to make something work.

As they stand and disregarding the carbs, the first set by virtue of having attaching hardware is worth well more than the second. If one has the attaching hardware then not so much. Doug, consider Steve poked!!

We at ZTherapy have a new customer in NJ who would like to source an earlier aircleaner to go with his new hotroddious maximous carbs. I said I'd post for him as he's not on any forums. We find him one maybe we can get him to come by and play...... Shoot me an email if you have something and I can get you hooked up..... And thanks for your support......

Guy, Thanks for the report on those dastardly SM needles. We know they run fine and have since first used in '73. I'd like to see a companion run done on the dyno using the stock needles for comparison. Over all, great job!! Where'd you say you got those carbs again?? Nyuck nyuck

Anymore it's assumed that cutting and buffing a base coat clear coat paint job is a must. www.paintucation.com has some excellent DVDs covering all this stuff. The supplies are too damned expensive to go in blind.....

I can just imagine the response you got from the dealer. You want a list of parts that came on a car sold many many years ago? NISSAN and their dealers don't want to mess with anything that says Datsun on it. Car sales car sales car sales is what it's all about in this man's army.

If you have SUs try richening them up a half turn and see what that does.

By failing to post a photo, he sure provided lots of entertainment for the rest of us...... C'mon, Rick, you can come back now......

For those that were stating awhile back that you didn't like where your gauge needles were and thought the engine temps were too high, I have a solution. As those gauges don't show temp readings per se it's hard to say when or when not temps are too high. I have just received a temp indicator strip that shows gradations from 160 to 230 in 8 steps. I stuck it on my thermostat housing and it turned black to 180which is exactly where my gauge showed. If enough would like to purchase a strip for $10 delivered via mail I'd be happy to bring some in from overseas )not China) and fill orders. Cheers

You know, it would be interesting to see what the numbers might look like were it opened up to all Datsun stuff. Maybe everyone was thrilled the way it turned out but it seems a shame all the others didn't get a chance to show there stuff.

It's like you can see right through it. I've heard of deep clears before but this is rediculmous!!

Somebody stole your car Mon!!

Time for a rebuild by a qualified shop unless you are schooled on tranny repair. Pay them to go through it entirely replacing all synchros and bearings. Pay the money and do it once correctly.....

Dunk the box as is, wires and everything. I have seen cases where corrosion has crept down the wires inside the insulation so it's good to attack that too. This really is one of the easiest PM things you can do to your Z that will solve a slew of "gremlins"........

How many stock cam shafts would you like? The owner of ZTherapy said he'd give you one as he does nothing with them so they have assumed surplus laying around growing old gracefully status. Call me for details.....

Why not buy another cam shaft. Whole lot easier than trying to bring one back from the dead.......

Elliot, If you want to do it yourself, our JUST SUs DVD will walk you through going through them cleaning, adjusting, installing, balancing and setting the mixture. Pretty fool proof deal as we've had hundreds of users do it. We also have the Uni-Syn in stock.

Dang, and we miss out on a monster needle sale......:disappoin

Joe, I'm gonna hate myself in the morning but here goe...... 1) You can buy our Reman Service and know that everything is returned to square one aand will be to your liking as long as you're going to care.... 2) As those bad boys have been sitting for over half their lives I'm guessing they aren't nearly worn out enough to require a "complete" and would probably function well enough with a little de-funking..... We can't afford to do the de-funking as it isn't cost effective to put the time into that vs building a set of carbs. Here's my suggestion: Buy the JUST SUs DVD, 2 float bowl gaskets, gaskets to the manifold, 2 gas lines (depending on how pliable your are) and a few cans of carb cleaner. Borrow a couple of your wife's best bath towels and spread them out on the dining room table and have at cleaning them up. (kidding of course) The float bowls need to be cleaned out as do the needles and seats in the float bowl lid. The pistons and domes need to be cleaned inside but beyond that there isn't much more I'd suggest that a low miler set of carbs might require to get up and running. Just a good cleaning of residues left behind from sitting would be the goal.... So it's either spend the money for a complete or go the budget route and be pretty safe in the positive results of a cleanup. You know, now that I think about it, you can do all this with the carbs on the car.

Before starup reach in the carb mouths and lift the pistons and make sure they rise and fall without resistance. In the dampers on top of the carbs remove those plastic caps and soak up any oil that may be left down in the dampers. Replace with ATF to the top of the inner tube and replace the damper rods. Check rise and fall again. The inner damper tube can be seen better by lifting the carb piston. We sell an information loaded SU DVD when you start going after those carbs......

If you use Carl's method and get it running be prepared to get in an oil change or two in relatively short order as you'll more than likely be kicking loose ancient accumulations of stuff that can plug things up in the pan and passages. Hope you don't wipe out the bearings in the bottom end..... To minimize damage when you start turning it over with the starter, pull the plugs to take the strain off the bottom end til you get oil pressure built up......

I'm really surprised that no one is suggesting tear down of the engine before proceeding. I'd hate to guess how little you have going on in the way of lubrication propertied in any of the bearings at this stage. Wipeing out the bearings will surely entail a tear down soon after getting it running. What does the oil look like on the dipstick? Least worse case would be to get new oil in the engine and spin the oil pump with a drill motor to get oil pumped to all the bearings before going too much further. Those sticking valves? No clue what to suggest. Hand turn, tap valve stem with block of wood to jar them back into position? Don't know..... Anyway, You have your hands full here. Good luck.