Travel'n Man

Thanks for the kind words - just takes a lot of time and lot of money! http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Search Strut Bar - they were originally blue but just did not look right in my engine bay so now the mounts are my body and block color - it works for me. I did the same to the rear one.

I have an Audi A6 also - great car - solid as a rock and great in the snow.

Matt - I'm just over in Boone - I have my X5 serviced at FLOW - they keep me on the road! Go over to FLOW and take a X5 for a test drive - you just may end up taking one home. Helluva vehicle!

I own a 2005 X5 - it is the best car I have ever owned. I have almost 250,000 miles on it and it drives as good as it does when I drove it off the dealerships lot with 000001 mile on it. I ordered it from Greenville SC and had it built the way that I wanted it. I honestly think I can get another 100,000+ miles on it. Labor and parts have been no worse or no better than anything else out there. The workmanship is excellent - leather quality is excellent - and attention to detail is fantastic. My next purchase will be another BMW without a second thought. I am really feeling the X6 but with as many miles as I drive I'm afraid the staggered wheel and tire size may make it expensive to maintain. For a large SUV the X5 is the best interstate/mountain road driver as I could ask for. I can drive for long stretches and feel great when I get out of the ride. The germans really know how to do it right!

There are a few things you will notice right off the bat - no acceleration surge (dumping the linkage is not a bad thing / once you have tried the cable) - immediate torque difference - and that triple carb sound. It'll put a smile on your face every time you drive your car......you gotta love it!! From my understanding on my Mikuni's the correct idle is approx 1000 rpm's - you may not need to go any lower - what are the idle spec's for Webers?

She is a beauty! http://www.griotsgarage.com/text/content/havingfun/about-our-cover-cars/hb328.html

Great post - thanks for the info!

Found one - yep, thats right - I think it is the last one in the nation - Tire Kingdom / Tire Rack / Discount Tire - nobody has this sizing

You can always get the LOKAR throttle cable - it works great and get rid of the throttle surge and all slop or you can do this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?30584-Accelerator-linkage-fix-questions&highlight=throttle+linkage

I had a blow out this evening. My car is ok but the tires that I have on my Z are discontinued by Yokohama. Does anybody out there have one or two that they want to sell? Size is 225x50x15. Has to be in new to like new condition only.

Great way to spend an hour or so - it's always interesting with some great rides.

I would first of all work on your spelling - you will get some faster and better responses from this site. Second of all I would get a new shop - if this guy has screwed this up from the beginning it will be a train-wreck once he finishes the rebuild Call Dave Rebello (http://www.rebelloracing.com/)- he can send you all the parts and pieces that you need or just send him your block and head and he and his team will perform a little "Rebello Racing Magic" to it.

Hell - I'm fired up and it's not even my dash - looks great - keep us posted!

Nice ^^^ Great looking install - I'm really fired up for you when you get to start those Triples up!

Don't spend a lot of time on your old slow wiper - here is the best fix that is out there IMO. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?141-Honda-Wiper-Motor-Upgrade-for-the-240Z

Steve - No I don't. It is only approx 1/8" thick and lives on the underside of the heat shield. I just cut out a template of the underside of the heat shield cleaned the underside surface, and stuck it right there. That fast and that easy. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-13575 Aluminized Heat Barrier is made up of woven silica with a flexible aluminized finish; the highly reflective surface of the material is capable of withstanding radiant temperatures in excess of 2000 degrees fahrenheit The adhesive backed composite construction material can easily be applied to any surface or wrapped around a hose or wire to make a clean professional appearance Some Typical uses include: firewall, hoods, hoses, doors and anywhere you want to control radiant heat

Stephen - If you do go with a heat shield I did also add a heat barrier to the underside of mine to ensure temps stayed reduced on the fuel bowls - Heat Barrier: Thermo Tec-13575 - just a thought while you are buying and installing.

This may help some: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?30584-Accelerator-linkage-fix-questions&highlight=lokar

The easiest way is just to pull a new power line - run it through the transmission tunnel - connect it a power supply tie to your starter switch - put it all on a relay with ground - tie a fuse into your line and your done. A 15-30 minute job at max.

Sorry to see that! Glad your son is OK.

............now the fun starts! Welcome to the club!

O2 Sensor and Air Fuel Gauges are not cheap - did a ton of researching and ended up using one at Summit Racing (since the hidden radio was digital I figured why not for the AFR gauge) it reads the digital number and sweeps from halfway down - either on the lean side or the rich side. The 02 sensor installed in the collector of the header. Run some power and your good to go.

I wanted to update this install with the location that I installed my Air Fuel Gauge. Works great - out of the way and easily accessed for me to monitor if needed. If you're going to tune triples this is a necessity. Close up the glove box door and nobody knows it's there.

Wait until you hear those bad boy's fire up!