Johnny wick

Companies that sell the steering column cover do not offer the screws!!! Hence, i need to know the type and thread.

I need to know the size and type? I know they are six!

My mechanic installed the bracket but when pulling the choke the yellow light is not turning on! Could he left something loose or not wired?

Costjo, I just bought one like yours! I was using the e8016s which is 2.5 to 4 psi but it lacked power! Do you need to use a regulator with this one? Does it overpowers the needles and seats due to its bigger pressure?

Maybe this could be an option! Is the MSA Premium Exhaust System, 70-72, 74 240Z-260Z (For Stock Manifold) rust free?? Stainless Steel? http://www.thezstore...ssic19j/15-6302

Any pictures of the 6 screws? Will M4 X 0.7 work? Anyone?

Thanks so much Mark. Give me a couple of days and ill get back to you with photos of the plugs. The last time the Porsche mechanic adjusted the carbs, he did a good work. However, after a couple of weeks of using the car and getting stuck in traffic, plugs 4 and 5 started to get black.

I am taking it to the Porsche Mechanic in Panama. Maybe ill make a video of him tuning the carbs. He told me the 8012S pump was not working correctly and the 8016S needs more. The Airtex 8012S has the following specs: Free Flow Rate: 30 gph Maximum Pressure (psi): 9 psi Any other suggestion on how to tune them correctly?

Does anyone know where can i get the complete steering column cover halves with their 6 screws? I tried MSA but they do not supply the screws? If not what is the correct size and type of screws? M4 X 0.7 mm???

I guess the problem of not being able to tune them is that the car has an Airtex 8016s electric fuel pump (2.5 to 4 psi), not enough fuel pressure and even though i turn the mixture knob clockwise to 4 turns, its still lean. Should i go back and replace it with Airtex 8012S fuel pump rated 5 to 9 psi?? http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/atx-e8012s/overview/ Is there a better option or will this suffice?

I tried this at 2.5 turns and still backfires at the intake of both carbs. Even at 4.5 turns it backfires at the intake!

Did you meant the following: open them up all the way clockwise looking from the top of the car and then anticlockwise 2.5 turns. CLOCKWISE: Lowers the nozzle, allowing more fuel. ANTICLOCKWISE: Raises the nozzle, restricts the fuel Please clarify!!!

My 72´ 240z is still not getting the correct tune up! I have tried almost everything but its still backfiring at the intake on both carburetors. I have watch the Ztherapy video like 10 times and followed their instructions but cannot get the job done. The Carbs were recently overhauled by them on last November. 1. Warmed up the car for 5 minutes 2. Took both of the Domes out and rinsed them throughly with Carb Cleaner 3. Cleaned the 6 spark plugs (NGK BP6ES) with brass brush and contact cleaner 4. Put the domes back with their springs and filled the carbs with ATF fluid. 5. Piston falls and rises freely. 6. Set the RPM with the throttle screws on each carb to 1,000 RPM 7. Balanced both carbs: Fast idle screw to 2,000 RPM and did the balance with the right balance screw and synchronizer. Back off Fast Idle Screw 8. Turned both mixture knobs on the front and rear carb 4 turns clockwise. Result: Car is still sputtering and backfiring on the intake. I step on the gas, the car is not running smoothly and both carbs exploding on their intake. Could the electric fuel pressure pump not sending enough pressure: I have an Airtex 8016S which pushes 2.5 to 4.5 psi. Should i switch to a more powerful pump? WHat could be the cause of this intake backfire? Cant believe i cannot manage to tune the carbs properly

It was hooked up wrong. Went cable by cable. The only one i still need to figure out is the choke light! Maybe tomorrow morning.

Went to pick up my car this morning and found several issues which need to be solve. Guys who installed the AC did not pay attention when installing the AC and left some gremlins on its way out: 1. The headlights are on all the time. You start the car and the headlights turn on immediately. Before it took the car to the shop, the headlights could only be turned on when you actívate them by turning the TS Combo switch. 2. The front parking lights do not work. Both bulbs are okay. 3. The Choke light does not work either. THey installed the choke cable bracket: https://www.californiadatsun.com/interior/240z-choke-cable-bracket.html. when you pull the choke, the yellow light does not actívate. 4. The blue high beam light is on when you turn the key to accesories. It should be off, if the last time you used the car you left it off. Note: I formerly installed both Dave Irwin´s marvelous circuits. The headlight upgrade and the parking light upgrade. Can i solve these issues by myself and how??

This means i can leave the balance tube as it is. No need to install either of the following: 1. Servo Diaphgram 2. Thotlle opener control valve

Are you sure its 16 - 18 AWG that goes from the battery to the stereo?

Sincé i already finished installing the AC i would like now to swap the aftermaket stereo with a newer model. I still have some doubts: 1) Should i install a Kenwood stereo or another Brand? 2) What model? 3) what is the wire gauge (awg) for the wire that goes from the battery to the stereo? 12 AWG? I wont be using any amplifier for subwoofers just the basic stereo an 4 speakers.

No throttle opener control valve and no servo diaphgram?? How do you compensate when the car is at idle and you turn the AC on?

Okay. Question: Engine on, air conditioner on. Does it need to move to the right and oscillate or should it remain steady at the right?? Mine moves to the right and oscillates at idle but keeps to the right! 60 amp alternator and original 45 amp ahmeter

Okay, finally after 35 days the following was accomplished: 1. Install Sanden 508 compressor and bracket ---------------------------------------- DONE, mechanic did not need additional on switch to turn the compressor on. The compressor is turn on moving the fan knob to speed 1. Hence it will only have speed 1 and 2. 2. Install Vintage Air Gen II mini evaporator under the dashboard ---------------- DONE, left some punctured holes in the top of the dashboard. 3. Replace damaged Ahmeter with a good one which i provided------------------ DONE, it oscillates to the right hand side! Is this its normal operation when the engine is on? 4. Replace all dashboard bulbs with leds which i also provided-------------------- DONE, red brake light does not turn on 5. Install a working servo diaphgram and throttle opener valve..------------------- Mechanic says this is not needed! then how does he keep the rpm up when the car is at idle and the AC is on? 6. Install the hoses and condenser. ------------------------------------------Done 7. Install an MSA Fan Shroud.------------------------------------------------- DOne Any opinions on the above???

Thanks ZKars! Got the picture!! Asides from the above, i noticed that after the dashboard was mounted back there were several issues that needed some more attention to be addressed as follows: 1. The ignition lock key was not returning to the lock position. Could the lock be mounted in a wrong position? 2. The red brake light is not lighting up 3. One of the tail lights marker is not marking. On the front it does work on the rear one does not mark when activated. How do i troubleshoot and solve these issues?

I am in the middle of the AC installation on my 240z and due to the fact that i had to install an electric fan in front of the ac condenser, i will need to relocate the horns from their original location to elsewhere or change their position in a way! Any recommendations on where to place them? They will need to be near or else the connnecting wires wont reach the horn terminals.

I am referring specifically to someone in this fórum who has used this product and not a general search on google!!!

Sugru, seems to be the solution to fill in the punctured holes! How do i order this product? How to i get the textured finish and black color?