Johnny wick

Okay ill follow your advice. I juat wanted to confirm that the gap taken with the needle pin unpressed as the picture shown.

Your explanation is as clear as water. Best in all. Ill use a 9/16 drill bit.

Bottom line, which is the correct and precise way? Just contacting the valve stem or with the float's weight falling down? Still not clear.

Please clarify how the 0.55 or 9/16 gap is taken. Pursuant to the australian forum it is taken with the needle valve pin depressed supporting the weight. If this is not clear i cant move forward.

I want to be able to dial both carbs equally at 2.5 turns clockwise

I got this reply from the aussie forum regarding the way the .55 inch gap measurement is taken. It seems to be contrary to your advice.

SM NEEDLES installed ztherapy and they are the same. Same level of fuel at 2.5 turns at the bridge. Shall we move forward with the floats and install the correct size of needle valve in the front and move to the higher ears in the lid?

Well at the end i decided to drain both float bowls removing the drain screw and open the box of surprises: 1. Mechanic drill a lower hole to Front float lid ears to compensate i dont know what maybe the size of the needle valve that ztherapy installed in that lid which should have been the larger one. Front and rear carb have the same size of needle. The .55 gap was also wrong it measure .61 inch. 2. There is a disadvantage on drilling those holes as the float gets to a point where it cannot move any further. 3. The rear float was also out of gap if you measure the gap from the top of the lid to the bottom of the float. 4. Setting the carbs at 2.5 shows the same depth as per the pictures. Now what else should i do? Install the correct height needle valve, move back to the original holes in the front lid and get a gap of .55?

Is there any precaution i must take before opening the float bowls in the front and rear carb? i believe they must be filled up with fuel and i could easily damage the corks. I just want to verify why my mechanic couldnt tune up both carbs to 2.5 turns clockwise and had to drill some extra holes to the ears of the front lid. Even with this approach he left it at 4 turns clockwise on the front and 2.5 turns clockwise on the rear.

Im practicing with a set of floats and lids before opening the car floats. My mechanic adjusted them but opening extra holes on the front carb ear lids. The weird thing is that he could managed to set the mixture knob at 2.5 turns clockwise on both carbs. He argued that the needle size is different on the front and could only set it to 4 turns clockwise.

what i want to accomplish is to get both carbs tuned at 2.5 turns each!

New picture at a differen angle. Should i set both carbs at 2.5 and post pictures of the jets level on both? Can this be useful? I still have not opened the floats lids on the carbs, i woulnt like to damage the gaskets until i get proper training.

.60 inches

Its really hard to set it this way and get the .55 inch gap with the metal bracket attached ton the float barely touching the valve pin.

Come man. Its really difficult to get the .55 inch gap from the bottom of the lid to the top of the float without pressing the needle valve stem. Am i doing something wrong. The su carb dvd is for su carbs with gross jets not needle and valve. 2 hours trying to adjust without any success.

This is what i was asking. The .55 inch gap is taken with metal bracket underneath the float just touching the needle valve stem as per this picture. No pressure pushing the tip of the valve.

This is the fsm for the 1972 240z. Is it just touching the neddle pin? Its hard to adjust it without the weight of the float to fall on the needle. Does the needle pin needs to be unpressed and the metal bracket just touching the needle pin?

Is this the correct gap?

Well i found these needle and seat kit on amazon which are different sizes: Walker kits # 15568 and 15567 https://www.amazon.com/Walker-Products-15568-Carburetor-Kit/dp/B000CLSRR0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan|67&Model=240Z|2284&Year=1972|1972&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive https://www.amazon.com/Walker-Products-15567-Carburetor-Kit/dp/B000CLN1XK/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CLN1XK&pd_rd_r=TDQQXDZ2S5N4F8MNP2G6&pd_rd_w=J4pBT&pd_rd_wg=phsEG&psc=1&refRID=TDQQXDZ2S5N4F8MNP2G6 I spoke to Bruce Palmer yesterday and he told me that due to lack of availability he is installing the same size of needles on both 3 screws su carbs. My target is to be able to set both carbs at 2.5 turns clockwise with the same float level on both. Not 4 turns clockwise on the front and 2.5 turns clockwise on the rear. Any experience with these Walker kits?

where do i purchase a set of new floats and a pair of needle and seats for my 3 screws su carbs? As per the information described one is longer than the other one.

Ill need to check on that as i am still confused if the .55 inch gap is taken with the pin of the needle unpressed or slightly pressing the pin.

Ok

Thats what i meant the measurement of the 0.55 inch gap is taken with the bracket just on top of the pin and not depressing it. You need to be clear. The dvd is not clear and asidea from that it refers to grose jets and not needle valve.

Okay this means the float metal bracket just touching the pin of the needle valve and not pushing it?