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Parking/Tail lights fuse holder heating up


grannyknot

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The 72 I'm working on has the usual melted fuse contact on the Parking/Tail lights circuit but as I went through the car I checked every bulb and contact points, the wires and connectors and didn't find anything concerning.  The car is back together but that same fuse holder getting hot.

Any ideas where I should start my hunt?

Thanks

 

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I just linked this in the Smoke thread.  I haven't looked at it so don't know if it drops amperage through the fuse.  It might.

https://www.thezstore.com/product/5031/parking-light-upgrade-harness-70-73-240z

Beside that, have you looked at the back of the panel?  Behind that fuse?  Poor contact there could cause heat.  Looks like only one side is getting hot.

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@SteveJ Thanks, so if I change the the bulbs in the tail lights and marker lamps to LED, that should cool that side of the fuse holder sufficiently ?

Anyone have a list of LED replacements bulbs handy, I know I've seen a couple floating around?

@Zed Head I didn't know someone was making that upgrade harness, looks like that would solve my problem too.

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I've never taken thermal readings, but less current flow results in less heat. I have not seen signs of overheating in the parking light circuit in my 260Z since I changed to LEDs 12 years ago.

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As all these contacts are rivetted i would clean up all these contacts ans solder them. (Take out the whole box) As they are 50 years old, clean them with a small rotary brush on a dremel.

Maybe replace that burned fuse contact with another one. (Out of an old fusebox) Also clean the contacts between the fuse itself and the clamps (With a soft brush, not to damage the copper, maybe use some alcohol.. no not to drink! to clean!! 😉 )  and take all fuses out and bend them to one another so the fuse is hold very tight in between..  (hope you get what i mean haha 🙂 )   Do this to all the fuses and you will have no more fusebox issues.. (Use clean fuses!)

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11 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

Don't overlook the possibility the combo light switch may be contributing to the problem. If the individual rocker and corresponding contact post are heavily carboned up that could be creating resistance that is backing up to the fuse block.

Actually if it is carboned up, it would be dropping the amount of current flowing through the fuse as it would be acting as a load in series with the lights. 

So we can solve for the nominal resistance of the bulbs, add some resistance in the circuit for the switch (0.5 ohms), and see what the circuit current would be.

image.png

So the current through that fuse would drop by over 3A. 

The switch would still be a hot spot, but it should not affect the fuse box.

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5 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

As all these contacts are rivetted i would clean up all these contacts ans solder them.

The same assembly method was used on the ignition switch.  I had one that was so loose it would lose contact completely.  I restaked it with a punch and it came back to life.  For that amount of heat, to melt the plastic, I'd bet that it's so loose that you can see it move.

Some silver conductive paste would probably help.  But if they can be removed and soldered that would probably be the best you could get.  

Edited by Zed Head
+l
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I replaced every bulb in the back half of the car with LED today, $180.00 😵, the fuse holder was too hot to touch yesterday, after the new bulbs went in it was slightly warm and consistently warm over a 5 min period, heading in the right direction.

Will replace the front bulbs tomorrow, I cleaned out my local NAPA so will have to raid the store in the next town over.

Thanks guys.

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Switching to LED bulbs will also lighten the load on the turn signal and hazard flasher cans. If you still have the OE thermal-style cans the flasher will likely not work. Switching both out to new electro-mechanical type units will take care of things. Something like this will work for both:

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-el12/849385_0_0

I'm still running incandescent bulbs all around with relay kits, these type flashers work very well.

 

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20 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

Switching to LED bulbs will also lighten the load on the turn signal and hazard flasher cans. If you still have the OE thermal-style cans the flasher will likely not work. Switching both out to new electro-mechanical type units will take care of things. Something like this will work for both:

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher/p/novita-turn-signal-hazard-warning-flasher-el12/849385_0_0

I'm still running incandescent bulbs all around with relay kits, these type flashers work very well.

 

I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2

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1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

My complete list:

Here is my current list of recommended LED bulbs:

White LED (license plate and reverse lights)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4
Amber LED (front side markers)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5
Red LED (rear side markers)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD
Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights)     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H4MXQMZ
Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals)     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ7N9TD
Green LED (gauge lights)       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VNXS6H
Red 1156 LED (rear lights)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2

Gauge Lights:
Green LED (gauges and turn signals)   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9MGSX7K
High beam LED               https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GS325N6
Brake idiot light           https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GRJGD5Y

Flasher Relays (2)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2

Hella H4 housings:       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W
or
Koito H4 housings:       https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70

Auxito H4 LED bulbs:       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

Beautiful, I love the adjustable flasher unit.

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3 hours ago, SteveJ said:

My complete list:

Here is my current list of recommended LED bulbs:

White LED (license plate and reverse lights)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4
Amber LED (front side markers)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5
Red LED (rear side markers)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD
Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights)     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H4MXQMZ
Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals)     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ7N9TD
Green LED (gauge lights)       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VNXS6H
Red 1156 LED (rear lights)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2

Gauge Lights:
Green LED (gauges and turn signals)   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9MGSX7K
High beam LED               https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GS325N6
Brake idiot light           https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GRJGD5Y

Flasher Relays (2)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2

Hella H4 housings:       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W
or
Koito H4 housings:       https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70

Auxito H4 LED bulbs:       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

I think that should be in the resource section or maybe a searchable thread of its own

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16 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I restaked it with a punch and it came back to life. 

Normally i would have said that, but these fuseboxes are to old for that. the plasic will brake.. you need to be very careful.

clean contacts and LED lights are the solution. And a look with a infrared thermometer after 15 min. of "everything ON" over the fusebox and wireing is a good test!

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8 hours ago, Patcon said:

I think that should be in the resource section or maybe a searchable thread of its own

The only thing is that this will change periodically from vendors changing their offerings.

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2 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Normally i would have said that, but these fuseboxes are to old for that. the plasic will brake.. you need to be very careful.

clean contacts and LED lights are the solution. And a look with a infrared thermometer after 15 min. of "everything ON" over the fusebox and wireing is a good test!

For cleaning the contacts where the fuses go, look for small bore cleaning brushes. I like the ones with the 1/4 hex end for using with a drill or hex screwdriver handle. https://www.amazon.com/Variety-Stainless-Twisted-Cleaning-Corrosion/dp/B09P5237JH

Make sure you have the negative of the battery disconnected before attempting this.

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36 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

The only thing is that this will change periodically from vendors changing their offerings.

I considered that and agree, but you could also add enough identifiers like 1156 amber or max length to make it possible to search if an offering become unavailable

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My complete list:
Here is my current list of recommended LED bulbs:
White LED (license plate and reverse lights)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWWJ4N4
Amber LED (front side markers)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWXXPN5
Red LED (rear side markers)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XWX81ZD
Red 1157 LED (rear turn signals and brake lights)     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H4MXQMZ
Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals)     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ7N9TD
Green LED (gauge lights)       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VNXS6H
Red 1156 LED (rear lights)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WGAUIR2
Gauge Lights:
Green LED (gauges and turn signals)   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9MGSX7K
High beam LED               https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GS325N6
Brake idiot light           https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GRJGD5Y
Flasher Relays (2)       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2
Hella H4 housings:       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G76Q2W
or
Koito H4 housings:       https://parts.toyotasouth.com/oem-parts/toyota-headlamp-assembly-8111060p70
Auxito H4 LED bulbs:       https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

Great list!!

I used the same green LEDs for the gauges and found the see through front was creating bright / hotspots on the gauges and had to rough it up with some 800 grit for better light dispersion.

Did you find the same issue?
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