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  1. From the album: Z Garage

    © Racer 2020

  2. From the album: Z Garage

    © Racer 2020

  3. From the album: Z Garage

    © Racer 2020

  4. View Advert I put my Rebello 260Z on Bring A Trailer Since I've been a member here for the duration of my Datsun(s) ownership I'd like to share the sale of my last Z with you all: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-35/ Advertiser Kurbycar32 Date 11/21/2019 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 197
  5. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Since I've been a member here for the duration of my Datsun(s) ownership I'd like to share the sale of my last Z with you all: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-35/

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    Manteca, California - US

  6. I have an early 1971 Z with four-bolt round-top carbs. I am rebuilding both carbs. I was told by a number or sources that the Walker 15566 was the right kit. Imagine my surprise when I compared the provided float needle and seat to the original. It was about 0.25-inches shorter than the original, or at least the one that has been installed for at least 20 years! The shorter assembly would not allow the float height to be set correctly. Is this the wrong kit or am I missing something? I did pick up some OEM braided hoses for the connecting the float bowl to the body of the carb. Can anyone
  7. Last night I replaced the choke (cold start) cables for the carburetors. They need to slide freely and after 44 years of usage and most likely never being lubricated since new, it was time. After doing some research I found that 0.055" Piano wire is the best option for replacement as its affordable and able to push and pull, which is required. I also have more than enough left over and only paid $4.60.After disconnecting the cables from the carbs and pulling the center console apart, I removed the cables from inside the cabin, then measured the length needed. I left myself an extra foot be
  8. I am in the process of tuning the round-top SUs on my 71. The first step is to set the idle screw and and jet level. The jet is supposed to be even with the "bridge," the flat part where the piston comes to rest when it is "at rest." This is possible on one of the carbs, but I cannot raise the second jet high enough. It is about a 16th-of-an-inch below being the bridge, I cannot get it to a flush position. Is it possible to loosen the jet jet locking nut and then make a "gross" adjustment so that I will be able to set the jet to flush using the jet adjusting nut? An other way of putt
  9. Hi, right now i am in the process of fixing all small issues with my Fairlady. Since you guys already helped me I want to try my luck a second time. I had a look at the vacuum lines and to me they seem to be set up in a weird way. The car is a '78 280Z with a 280ZX engine (L28E F54 block with P79 head) converted to Ztherapy SU carbs and original AC. The engine runs fine apart from a slight fluctuation in idle speed (every 3-5 second it goes up from 800rpm to maybe 840rpm and then back down again). I checked all the FSMs to use the correct terms in my drawing and I added three pictures of t
  10. Howdy Yall, I've been driving my Z for a couple weeks, (its too much fun, dont want to drive other cars now). Ran into an issue that I cant seem to get myself out of. I'm getting what appears to be a lean condition on the carbs, the motor will produce a backfire/bog down when running between 2.7-3.5k RPM, and if i get to 40 mph it really drives rough. I parked the car for 2 weeks and have been trying to get a baseline tune on the carbs, based on information that I'm finding on the web, but am a little confused from the information that I'm reading online regarding the float sett
  11. Hi guys. Wondering if there's any way someone here could help me out with finding a part I'm looking for. I'm currently converting my '73 240z to early SU carbs, and I need to find the long J hook linkage that comes off of the firewall bracket to the rest of the carb assembly. Linkage piece I need is shown in the photos I attached below. Does anyone have one of these or know where I can find one? ZTherapy told me to check around on the forums, and I'm not sure where to find one locally. Thanks in advance for your help! Courtney
  12. These came in a bulk load of parts I picked up a while back. Oval foam type air filters that look to be new but not in the original boxes, for 70 - 72 SU (Hitachi) carburetors. The are similar to the Black Dragon LongFlo style air cleaners found on page 71 of their catalog listed at $39.99 each. Asking $55 shipped (med flat rate box is $13.45) Thanks.
  13. Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube
  14. Hey gang, I've looked around and didn't see anyone mention this issue about four bolt dome top SU carbs that run horrible after everything else on the engine is correct. Recently bought an early 1970 Series 1 and it's been having really bad stumbling issues when you open the throttle from idle. Timing is dead on, valves are within spec, compression is good on all cylinders, cleaned up the carbs and even swapped out a few bits and pieces from a donor set of carbs. Bushings are in really good shape and there is almost no vacuum loss from the throttle shafts. After tuning the carbs way out of
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