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Found 6 results

  1. Hello guys! I'm new to this forum and recently new to the datsun world I purchased a 1981 280zx datsun that has been sitting outside a barn for about 4-6 years and since it still had the engine I decided to see if I can get it running before I even consider swapping the same l28e or if I get lucky the l28et. The first things I did was: change the oil, replace the fuel filter flush tank and replace gasoline (regular) replaced battery with terminals flush and replace coolant, spark plug wires (all in correct firing order) change ngk spark plugs (gap
  2. I did a compression test on my recently rebuilt 260z engine. It has about 1500 miles on it. On the dry test with the carb fully open and the coil wire off I get the following results # 1 thru #5 came in at about 72 lbs but the # 6 came it at around 90lbs On the wet test all came in at 90 lbs including the # 6. I am rather new to this and this is the first time I have done a compression test, so my questions are- why would the # 6 not change from a dry to wet test. The warranty expires next week on this engine and I wanted to do this test prior to the warranty expiring.Is this something to be
  3. I recently completed a compression check on my 1976 280z It's all original from what I was told when I bought the car... Engine Has 103xxx Miles on it... and the Last 3xxx I have driven. It hasn't had any major issues in the past that I am aware of, but I did have to reseal the fuel tank and clean out and replace a few fuel Injectors. Results: Cylinder Pressure ..............(Dry).....(Wet) 1 ... 130 ... 140 2 ... 120 ... 130 3 ... 80 ... 90 4 ... 110 ... 120 5 ... 120 ... 130 6 ... 110 ... 120 I don't Know what the pressur
  4. Hi, I just had my 260 engine rebuilt. It is running like s**T. I did a poor mans compression test (finger over the spark plugs while cranking engine) and the # 5 seemed to have no compression. In any case the engine is under warranty and the company that rebuilt it seems to be rather clueless. I say this because they want to check the carbs as they think this may be the issue. Now I do not claim to be Mr. Goodwrench but my understanding of this engine leeds me to believe that if there is no compression or very weak compression it would either be the valves or the rings. Would someone please le
  5. The other day I had my 260 out and the pedal got stuck under the floor mat. In any case it revved pretty high before I could release it. Now I have a loud valve tap and the # 5 cylinder seems to have lost compression. I did not do a compression test but rather a simple finger over the spark plug hole. Could I have bent a valve? It over revved for maybe 20 to 30 seconds. Can these Z engines typically have piston to valve contact. The head was rebuilt 500 miles ago, timing chain etc all new. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated Thanks Glenn
  6. :disappoin I was warned and worried about fouled/contaminated fuel so I wanted to do a lot more fuel-prep work than just drain and refill the gas tank. I pulled the gas tank, got it cleaned at a local shop who gave it a Castic acid bath for a day, got it back last week but haven't reinstalled it yet. Blew all the bad gas out of both the feed and return lines with an air compressor (the feed line between the fuel damper and the fuel filter; the return line between the fuel rail and the fuel tank). The fuel in the feed line had some black flakes in it, the fuel in the return line had a bit of
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