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Found 277 results

  1. Hi everyone, I've read that the tokico rear illumina struts are the same thing as the front, but just have a short piece of tubing at the bottom that lengthens them just a bit. To anyone who's installed some tokico struts and dealt with the spacer- what is the proper length of the spacer so that the struts sit at the proper height? I'm picked up two pairs of front struts and am planning on just making the small spacer myself. Has anyone done that? I'm wondering what size tubing to buy and the proper length to cut it. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.
  2. I have a blue 1971 240z with wide body and 350 V8, runs great and smooth with electron ignition, starter, new fans, cooling system, pumps, rebuild transmission, new gasket, new brakes and brake lines, exhaust pipe, gas pump, fuel cell lines, etc. spend over $10k in the fix last year with receipts! All it needs is maybe a new paint job! Check out the video http://youtu.be/H6N3FwkAKtwIt runs great without any issues and I drive it to work sometimes. Asking $13000 o.b.o.
  3. Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, there are two red/black wires going to the body harness from the dash harness, neither of which have continuity through the dash harness. This is the first issue. Second issue is the body harness itself has been subject to some serious modification. The body harness has THREE red/black wires (one of which looks like rear defroster), but the ones of the pronged connectors do not have continuity with the wiring at the reverse lights. The only wire that has continuity with the wiring at the lights is a red/black wire that has been connected to the spade going to the pass side door switch (??). Also, the wiring going up the frame after the seat has been chopped, and been butt spliced to different colored wiring. However, at the tail end of the car, most of the wiring appears factory. I know I could simply bypass the dash harness altogether. My questions: - What is the purpose of the black wire at the body harness connector? What else is going to ground from the dash harness? It appears the body harness has its own ground point. - Is the reverse light wire going through a pronged connector on the dash harness to the body harness on Series 1 240z or is it a separate butt style connection? - What do I do with the door switch? I never checked if it actually works. I wouldnt be too bothered if it doesnt however. Thanks for your help!
  4. Hi all, I am posting this for a fellow member @stanleyp. He sent me a reply today when our club sent him a happy birthday message. It looks like he cannot drive the car anymore and would like to sell it to a club member. Here's some info about the car. It looks like a very well kept, low mileage, S30 in yellow (my favorite color). You can call Stanley at 315-633-2421. I should have more pics from him soon. His listed price is $19,500 OBO. One owner: Original motor with triple Weber's and K&N air filters, High performance Mallory High-Fire distributor, Coil and ignition module, New tires on original Mag rims, New high performance shocks and custom exhaust system, New fuel delivery and return system with high volume "pusher" pump. Engine compression over 180 psig in all six cylinders. Automatic transmission complete overhaul and rebuild, i.e., manually shift thru three gears or let the automatic do it for you. A great classic high power show car. Appraised by NY state appraiser at $25,000. Standard Oil Changes, Garage Kept, Accident Free, Clean, Non-Smoker. Year: 1971 Manufacturer: Datsun Model / Trim: 240Z Condition: Good Location: Kirkville, NY 13082 Mileage: 89,000 miles (143,231 kms) Doors: 2 Engine: 6 Cylinder Transmission: Automatic Exterior: Yellow Interior: Black
  5. 1972 240z My gauges are not working properly anymore, either due to wiring or due to calibration issues. What gauges do you recommend/use? Tried some $70 set from napa but it wouldn't fit right. I saw on thezstore.com they had some gauges but they were like $400 for fuel, temp, and oil pressure. I would prefer black or white faces and that they light up. Thanks guys.
  6. Any one have a 69 - 71 transmission crossmember that you are willing to sell??
  7. I haven't been able to post on all the z forums I think this is the last one lol. I picked up a 1972 240z with Jim Cook Racing California Z body kit on it. This car was completely restored in 1981 by the first owner, I picked it up from the second owner who drove it from 83-93 and left it garaged since. I vacuumed out the rats nest, gave her a good wash today after 25 years of dust, did an oil change(so black and reeked of gas) wiped down all surfaces from rat pee, and treated the battery tray with acid treatment and painted it since it's empty and only surface rust currently.
  8. HLS30-000105 is now for sale on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240z-Series-1-/292151078816?hash=item44058fafa0:g:dCsAAOSwFqNZQM9-&vxp=mtr Has 49 bids to $15,000 within 4 hours after being listed. It was listed on CL and within a short time after I posted on here the listing was taken down. I should ask the guy for a finder's fee.
  9. Hello I recently bought a 1976 280z and it is sitting pretty high and I would like to lower it respectably not slam it. I was wondering if a set of 240 springs would be compatible with it to bring the height down. Or what would be the best thing to do. I do not have a lot of money to throw at it so I am not looking at getting coil overs.
  10. Zcardepot.com would like to give a thank you to Black Dragon for supplying parts to the Z industry for 25 + years. Black Dragon did a great job of supplying hard to find Z parts at reasonable prices to customers all over the world. Zcardepot plans to continue this practice as we have recently bought out the remaining inventory of Black Dragon Z car parts. We will be getting these parts listed on the website over the next few weeks and are certain we will be able to provide the same great customer service, prices and product that Black Dragon has done for so many years. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ Sincerely Zcardepot
  11. Need to remove the rear driveline yoke and replace with a R200 conversion yoke. Is there a topic for removing/replacing U joints?
  12. Hi all, I'm from France and I'm interested in a Datsun 240Z that has been imported from the US in the year 2016. I know it could be crazy but I would like if someone in this big community could have informations about this Z. The VIN number is HLS3028417. It is a 71' Z. The plate number is 2SRX221 and the previous owner was from San Jose (CA). The car has the signature of Yoshihiko Matsuo on the passenger sunvisor if it can help. Here are some pictures of the car . Any help or advice welcome. Thank you
  13. Not my car, But interesting. $30K Canadian???? https://victoria.craigslist.ca/cto/6136561342.html
  14. I have a 1972 240z, and the guy I bought it from got a viper security system and a beefy sound system wired in (very poorly might I add). I need to rewire a lot of the engine bay and the wiring diagrams available are not helping, a lot of wires are spliced and replaced that don't match up or are just taped off and lead nowhere. If anybody has a diagram of all the 10 pin connectors that are located underneath the passenger side of the dashboard it would help a lot, or if anybody has any self made diagrams that are at all related to engine bay wiring please post them, anything might help me out.
  15. Year: 1971 Series 1 240Z (75,568 miles) Location: Acworth Georgia 30102 Price: $6K OBO I have this unfinished project sitting in my garage and it need a new owner to complete it. Here is some info on it but it would definitely be best for interested people to come check it out in person. Please call Me (Jamie) at 770-294-9975 if you want to check it out. All rot cut out and patched, floors, front fenders, new doglegs New windshield and rest of the glass is in great shape New rubber seals for doors and other small pieces New Tikico suspension and urethane kit 280zx brake booster New Enki wheels and new tires complete interior in very good shape all tar insulation removed and replaced with dynomat engine bay painted blue runs great when battery is charged dash lights replaced with LED, volt meter replace ampmeter electronic ignition one door is dented from moving it in trailer small oil leak tons of receipts and paperwork fiberglass bumpers and headlight surrounds yes the dash has cracks
  16. Parting out 1982 Nissan 280ZX, it is a complete. Let me know what your interested in, the only things not for sale are rear diff, transmission and axle shafts. Shipping will be from Idaho, 83347 Items available include: -Engine/accessories -Wiring Harness -New Air Flow Meter -interior gauges -Fuel tank -Rims -Rear disc Brakes -Drive Shaft -Trim pieces -Glass Let me know what you want and I'll take a better picture of it and send you a price email me at dayleywwc@gmail.com Thanks
  17. 1972 240Z, automatic, with aftermarket AC. ISSUE: Between approx. 1100 to 1800 rpm when the motor is at operating temp., the engine will; cough, sputter, miss through the back/rear carb and it makes it hard to leave stop signs. As soon as it hits 1900 to 2k rpm it takes off like crazy and runs perfect. it is a fast car for what it is. This is my fourth Z but my first three were brand spanking new with no troubles except for my 74 260 that hated cold weather in South Dakota. I also had a 71 240Z, automatic and a 76 280Z 5 speed, all back in the 70s new. I got this Datsun 240Z in November 2016. I have had this trouble all along only so much worse I when I got it, I could not drive it anywhere for fear of dying. So here is what I have done; PARTS: new plugs, new rotor, new, distributor cap, new dual points, new condensers, new plug wires, new ignition coil, new mechanical fuel pump, new air cleaner filter. Put oil in the top of the dash pots. I took it to a mechanic who said he used to work on them years ago and raced datsuns. He said he pulled the distributor checked it all out, set carbs and timing and and put in new plugs, and reset the points gap, and said one of my new condensers was bad so he replaced it, and did whatever for 300 bucks, it ran great for one day then started doing it again the next day. Took it back and paid him 80 bucks more for whatever he did, got home 30+ miles away and it started doing it all over again. He said come back and I haven't because; it used to cough through the carb so hard it would fall flat on its face and sputter in the back carb, and keep doing it so that it was almost dying until I hit the 2k rpm. Then I did all the work I said and it seems the added oil in the carbs brought it to a milder miss/ backfire or cough thru the rear carb. It runs so much better now at the low rpm but it is still there. When it is a cold engine start, I choke it and it starts up, sputtering a lot and i right away ease up on the choke. it coughs thru the rear carb giving it gas in park at the low end until it warms up, After engine warms up, it only misses or coughs through the rear carb when the car is in drive under load or reverse. Park or N it runs great at low rpm on up to any rpm. It sounds super and runs super. CHRIS, Florida 19,500 OBO tired of dealing with it and don't have an easy time getting in and out of it. I am old and too heavy, But I love these Z cars.
  18. Looking for Transmission cross member 70-71 years, 240z Please pm if available, Thank you.
  19. Just signed up to the forum. I'm starting to look to buy a 240z and would like some advice of what to look for. I bought a brand new 1971 240Z in Okinawa in the spring of 1971 for $2950.00, no sales tax, and had it shipped to the US for $125.00. My girlfriend ended up with the car way back then. I lost track of her and the car. I'd like to find the car.. Well maybe not that car but a similar one. What does a "series one" refer to? I came across that term recently in my search.
  20. Purchased a M-factory R200 LSD and UPS said it would be delivered today. Has anyone installed one themselves? Suggestions?
  21. I have a R200 from an 86 300ZX and all of the parts to bolt into a 240Z. I will entertain offers for next couple days. R200 3.70 Speedo conversion Stub axles Halfshafts Front R200 cross member Rear R200 cross member PM me if interested Don
  22. For your consideration is a Holley carb conversion package with everything you need to run. Includes 240Z SU type intake manifold, 4 barrel conversion manifold, 1 Holley 390 cfrm in good condition with fresh rebuild, 1 spare Holley 390 carb of unknown condition (may need rebuild), linkage arm, and chrome air cleaner with filter. The 4 barrel conversion manifold is an odd beast for sure. Looks like it was made for a blow through turbo. It really drops the carb down low and has connections on the bottom for some kind of cooling (or heating?) system. Really interesting piece. I took this off a ITS race car we are currently restoring. Going back to SU's. I tried to take lots of pictures. Asking $500 for entire setup and free shipping in continental US.
  23. New replacement frame rail sections for front and rear of Datsun 240Z and early 260Z. Thicker than original metal (12 gauge). Available in mild steel and stainless steel. 240Z/260Z Rear Rail: https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal/frame-rail-sheet-metal-rear-240z.html?search=800-984 240Z/260Z Front Rail: https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal/frame-rail-sheet-metal-front-240z.html?search=800-983
  24. I thought I would make a quick post. The 510 wasn't charging so I did a little research on Rockauto. The 240z uses the exact same part so I pirated one off one of the Z's and that fixed the charging issue. Plug N play
  25. Wanted to buy: A set of 240Z D hubcaps in nice shape. Paying top dollar. Let me know, thanks. Arden