EScanlon

You're right Arne, it takes such a minute tweak on that screw to equal several minutes that 3-5 a week....I'd live with it. Heck, I'm living with 3+ minutes a DAY. It kind of works out, if I get in the car and I have to set the clock back more than 15 / 20 minutes, it's been almost a full week since I last drove her and re-set the clock. And it reassures me it is still working! E

Zak: Although not up to the technical expertise of this post's write-up, here's one article for the mechanical clock, JECO. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18442 MikeW: On a separate note, did you try tweaking the pivot points of the pendulum gear? The pendulum gear is the one that rotates one way then the other, there is also a small pin towards the center which "flips" a small lever one way then the other. This is the heart of the clock and what regulates the "tic-toc". The pivot points are actually screws with an inverted cone to allow the gear axle pin to rotate and be held in place. If those screw pivots are in too tight, they will actually exert pressure on the axle pin and stop it from rotating freely. You want to just barely crack the screw pivots loose, while not unscrewing them so far that the pendulum gear falls out of position. Try that, as that has been the only other thing that's prevented others from getting their clock to work. Arne, how long has your clock been working now, since you fixed it? Mine is going on 4+ years. E

This was mentioned before, IIRC the problem was the wrong type of bulb inserted into the tail-lamp socket (Single into a Double) which bridged both the turn signal/brake circuit with the parking lamp. 2¢ E

I would really hate to try to diagnose the individual problems this way. The loose "feel" you describe could be a number of things which I or others may not interpret the same way. You really do need to take the lock system out of the door to give it a good cleaning to remove the years of dirt and crud that have no doubt accumulated within it's mechanism. This may be more of a task than you want to deal with right now, so at least get a can of WD-40 and using the straw direct a healthy spray of it into the lock mechanism from the door panel side. This should get things moving again. Then, address the issue of the adjustable rod for the door. If that nut lengthens the rod to the point that it is actually pressing the lever down (the Hair Trigger Door Handle), it will actually start to move components within the lock such that when you try to change some of those components, they begin to rub on others that they shouldn't. The Key Cylinder's "looseness" that you refer to has nothing to do with it's actual operation. The "looseness" is due to age, and the worn down components within the body of the cylinder. That's why almost "any" key will open it. It's operation is to simply move a lever attached perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. That lever moves the rod attached to it, UP or DOWN. The only way the looseness of the cylinder would affect the operation of the door lock mechanism would be if in addition to being loose (and allow any key) it also didn't rotate smoothly and got stuck in either the UP or DOWN position (i.e. Key slot not left straight up and down). I'm still looking for a lock mechanism with which I can take pictures and illustrate some of this. E

Mike: Check the title of the .pdf file. E

IPO = Idiot Previous Owner RTFM(I) = Read The Freaking (sic) Manual (Instructions) SUGARSCOOP = Headlight Surround on the 240 Z HCP = Heater Control Panel

Excellent write up! Probably as good as you'd get out of a laboratory! One note however, the Early clocks weren't of this type. This is the second series of clocks, but I'm not sure if they were specific to the Series III or IV. I won't speculate if the Series II weren't mixed either. However, all the clocks I removed from earlier series cars (70-72) didn't have any electronic components. The only way I found out about this style was when I was given one of them. I can't be absolutely sure of when the change happened as it takes disassembling the clock face in order to peer inside. But, it is still one of the best write-ups I've seen. Maybe change the title to reflect the electronic components in the interior to differentiate from the one that just deals with the gears / springs. E

Woops! Sorry Prox! PirO, when you get the door panel off, you should be able to see the rods going to the outside door handle and the key lock. The Key lock rod connects to the same lever that the interior door lock pull connects to. It's function is very simple, it basically flips the lever UP or DOWN. In the Up position it allows the cam within the door lock to release the rotating cam. In the Down, it prevents that. It is still possible to force the lock mechanism if the lever is ~almost~ but not quite flipped. The door handle has an adjustable nylon nut to change it's length from the handle to the lever it actuates on the lock mechanism. If that rod is set too long, it will actually force the door lock, which may be part of the problem with the key lock, as the lock mechanism has had the lever pressed against the door open part. I'll see if I have a door lock available to take pictures. When you adjust the outside door handle rod, many body shops adjust it so that there is little to no play in the door handle. This is done so that with very little pull on the handle the door mechanism opens. The problem with this is that the rod can actually be over-extended and actually pressing on the lock mechanism's lever. You also don't want the door handle to pop the door at the slightest lift. The interior door handle is also adjustable, but it's adjustment comes from the location of the assembly and not by lengthening or shortening the rod, that is, by moving the handle forward or back. Again, you don't want a "feather trigger" handle. E

Don't know about there being only one key on the vehicle. Depending on Prox's build date he may have a late 71 vehicle that got titled as a 72 and as such does not have the reversible key for the ignition. Then again, the reference at Zhome regarding key changes in the Series II denote the change to a reversible key here: "4. Reversible Key-for starter, steering lock and glove box. " (http://zhome.com/History/New71Late.htm) But there is no mention of the door lock key, so it is possible to presume that it is different from the ignition key. I tried to find a reference for when the cars went to a single key, and it may have been after the Series III, but I couldn't find one. E

The resistor by the coil, was only used to reduce the voltage to the points to prevent their premature burning out. If your car has been upgraded to an electronic distributor, it no longer needs that resistor, and in fact, may actually cause problems with your module. 2¢ E

The picture from the FSM, is NOT what was wrong with your post. That was the most constructive part of your "advice". In fact, it's probably the key piece that Prox will use to fix his locks, as I still think he has a misplaced or misaligned rod. You initially started asking if there were 2 keys in his possession. Since he is able to open and lock the doors, the existence of the second key is irrelevant to the discussion of his misbehaving lock mechanisms....unless you're implying that he doesn't know the difference between the two keys. Without seeing the actual lock mechanism (the part with the rotating latch) and specifically, the mechanism INSIDE the door as it operates and is operated by the rods from the interior latch and the exterior door handle it is grossly inaccurate to proclaim that the door lock mechanism is broken and needing replacement, which is exactly what your post said. Tthe key lock mechanism (which by the way ONLY toggles a small lever which either allows the door lock to be opened or NOT) actuates the same lever as the interior pull handle, and specifically does not latch or unlatch the door lock. All it does is allow the door handle or the interior door latch to actuate the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism is a rotating "key" that grips the latch "hook" on the door body itself. The door handle and the interior door latch operate the door lock mechanism via the long rod visible in the FSM Drawing you provided and the adjustable length rod attached to the exterior door handle. The mechanism is actually quite simple to understand once you take one out and look at it, but as with any sufficiently advanced mechanism it seems to be "Magic" to those who can't understand it, but trust me, there are no little people from Mars living in your door. Besides, the air and the gravity aren't correct. Your intention to help is noteworthy, however, sometimes the best help when you're not sure what to do is to let others who DO know be the ones to respond. If your advice were to be taken implicitly, then Prox would spend the next few days/ weeks looking for new lock mechanisms and spending money that may not be that plentiful. So, I'm not "picking" on you, as you may have thought, but rather that your advice needed a bit more clarification rather than ... replace the locks. That solution of simply replacing parts, is unfortunately too often the response to a problem, that with a little bit of investigation provides the knowledge to never bother a Z fan again. FWIW E

Am I the only one that notices the ..... Too Much Information .... part of these two posts? Is this what is referred to as a Freudian SLIP? E

WHAT???!! If you can follow the logic in this, why not simply go buy a new car to fit the keys you DO have? After all, they are both NON-solutions. The problem on the Driver's door is occurring because somehow the lock mechanism INSIDE the door (and the key lock, nor the interior latch control this) has one of the rods that control it mis-aligned, or the adjustment for the door handle out of joint. In either case, the lever in the lock mechanism isn't traveling far enough to flip over to the "open" position. The passenger door has a similar problem. Again the rods that connect the lock mechanism to the key lock and the latch as well as the Push/Pull Rod. Or you could buy new doors with locks installed that match your keys.....:stupid: :stupid: E

Glove Box Light. Look on the opposite side of the plunger (which is on the door side) and you'll see a bulb socket housing if the bulb isn't in there. E

I too, hope that it isn't cancer. As an alternate possibility, it could also be to provide a Mounting Flange for the Filler Neck Ring and or to allow the ring to compress the Filler Neck Flange better. It should be easy enough to check though, there's only 3 screws holding the Filler Neck Ring to the body, remove those and see what you find. 2¢ E

Bump to top

That looks as if the "cup" that holds the filler neck has rusted out and this is the "replacement" sheet metal. At least if you are referring to the silver metal around the opening. As to what Tomohawk is referring to...??? E

August 13, 2006 22nd Annual All Datsun/Nissan Show and Shine at Blue Lake Regional Park Northwest Datsun Owners Association (NWDOA) Time: 10:00 to 3:00 Datsun/Nissan Show & Shine (with awards) Bar-B-Que Door Prize RaffleCost: Car Registration: $12.00 (Registration includes Show/Raffle Ticket/1 Food Pass) For more information contact Dan Uphoff (360) 687-7235 or Dan.Uphoff@wfhonline.org I've been given to understand that this is the "REAL" Blue Lake Show and that it is held by the "REAL" NWDOA. EDIT: I've been given to understand that NWDOA IS the group that founded the original Blue Lake Show. 2¢ E

August 13, 2006 22nd Annual All Datsun/Nissan Show and Shine at Blue Lake Regional Park Northwest Datsun Owners Association (NWDOA) Time: 10:00 to 3:00 Datsun/Nissan Show & Shine (with awards) Bar-B-Que Door Prize RaffleCost: Car Registration: $12.00 (Registration includes Show/Raffle Ticket/1 Food Pass) For more information contact Dan Uphoff (360) 687-7235 or Dan.Uphoff@wfhonline.org I've been given to understand that NWDOA IS the group that founded the original Blue Lake Show. 2¢ E

I can summarize in a few words: Performing the PERIODIC maintenance that had NOT been done for the past 30 years, and repairing the ensuing problems. E

Actually, I also agree with Tomohawk, so no need to quibble about good singers and their individual personalizations. You'll often find that a really good singer can mimic the style of the song as it is remembered as being original and STILL render a "personal" interpretation. And you're right on about the poor singers, unfortunately we can't have them shot. Booing them would lead others to think you were booing the anthem and not the singer. So, the trick to try to meliorate this is to write the concert halls, the newspapers and the arena/stadium management and tell them exactly that....keep the personalizations out of the anthem. E

Are you referencing the "cute" video cuts on the news? Or are you referencing televised games/events where they don't jump away to commercial every chance they get? Television, unfortunately, as a business relies on the "sensationalism" of it's message to garner viewers. As Don Henley's song "Dirty Laundry" points out, people aren't interested in the clean story, they want the nitty gritty dirty story behind it. The "cute" video clip on the news is exactly that, something for you to roll your eyes about, groan about people's "dumbness" and mistakes. It's even used as a "teaser" to draw viewers to stay tuned for the 11 o'clock news and then they drag it out on every commercial break until just 2 minutes before they wrap up the newscast....they present it. All 15 seconds of it. But you stayed glued to the show just to see....someone screw up. The games/events that are televised with few commercial interruptions are either part of a station's commitment to bring you EVERY game of the local team....regardless of how poorly they're doing, and therefore that kind of sets the stage for poor talent to come forth and sing the National Anthem. You won't see the likes of Pavarotti singing it at a simple game, he'll be at the World Series. You won't catch Penny Whatshername at the Super Bowl, you'll find Beyoncé or some such. You're noting the poor ones while ignoring the good ones. And forget the "personalizations". Everyone wants to be remembered "forever", enshrined in a link such as Jimi Hendrix's rendition of the anthem. As a result, we end up with every sort of "emotional" interpretation of the anthem that somehow ignores the words and message of the anthem. I don't mind that they personalize, but I wish they wouldn't make "the twilight's last gleaming" sound as if THAT were the reason for the emotion and not "that our flag was still there". But all that aside. At least the anthem gets sung at MANY events. Now the real p!sser? The idiots who can't take a minute of their time to SHUT UP, address the Flag, and pay Respect. Now, that's a real pisser. E

See there you go again....your mind isn't going to change. You got the car for YOU and not for your wife.... You might try to get her to believe that, but amongst all of us here, many of whom have tried and bluntly, failed with that line, it won't hide the truth. Face it, you've been bitten by the Z bug. Denial will only lead to even further explanations that are as clear as mud but do cover the ground and later you'll have the big mess to clean up.:paranoid: Sometimes being bluntly truthful about something is exactly the way to go. Here's a story to illustrate: I recall one time I walked into a lingerie store and was walking around the aisles. One of the saleswomen, a very pretty and shapely young lady, asked me " May I help you find something?" To which I answered, "I'll know what I want when I see it", as I held up a very filmy piece of clothing. Her eyes squinted a bit, and then she asked in a whisper "Is this for your wife or ....?" and didn't finish the sentence. I presume that she was asking if it was for my wife or girlfriend, but I said "Oh, it's for me!" :cheeky: Her eyebrows jumped :eek: , but very calmly and professionally she mentioned that the piece I was holding up might be a ~bit~ small for me, and proceeded to pull up something in what she gauged to be "my" size. :tapemouth That's when I stopped her hand reaching into the bin and said "It is for ME to ENJOY, and for my WIFE to WEAR.":classic: The look on her face was priceless:nervous: , and she then proceeded to show me those items that she considered to be exceptionately alluring, even to the extent of draping them over her body for me to admire. At the checkout, when I handed her my credit card I asked what she would have done if it HAD been something for me. That's when she replied with a very obvious conspiratorial wink, "We can ~always~ find something to please!":devious: Which will no doubt lead to howls of inane comments, but not only did I find something that really .... titillated ... the shopping experience, it also proved quite ... profitable ... at home. So, the point of this story is simple. Don't try to BS your wife that the car is "for her". You'd sooner get her to believe a full set of Metric Sockets / Rachets and Wrenches was her anniversary present. (And be careful with that one, or you might find that she starts buying YOU Bra's and High-Heel Shoes....in her size.) Instead, show her what a fun and enjoyable car this is. Show her that this is something you plan to sincerely, methodically and systematically plan to complete and you won't need to "fool" her into believing the car is hers. Trust me on this. the LAST thing your wife wants for you to bring home is yet another project that is going to ....DIE.... in the middle of it's being completed. The last two Z's I bought were ...Dead Projects. Something someone started and just never followed through to completion. Remember, if she is what one would consider a "stereotypical" female, (and apologies to the female members of this forum who have risen above the stereotypes), she is, flatly and bluntly, as interested in your new car as you are in how the lingerie you bought for her last Valentine's Day fit her. That is, you bought the lingerie for what YOU imagined it would do FOR YOU, and not for HER comfort. The same with the car, you got it for YOU, and not for her. If you try to fool her, she'll see right through your plot and sink your dreams before you can even THINK of getting started. To those that would protest my use of allegorical similitudes, I would ask that you examine the message and not the medium. FWIW E

Curtis: Update your location in your profile, that way you'll get better responses to this type of question. E

It may also have been that that row hadn't yet been filled up at the time I took the photo. This isn't a static event, by the time you've gone from one end to the other, enough cars have arrived and some have left that you can almost start all over again. As busy as this was, it's not the busiest I've seen it. E